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Is my budgie cage bound or scared?

Saya

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He comes out of the cage on his own but almost always refuses help from me unless i have food, and when he is in or on his cage he will not let me touch him without food. Yet, when he is away from his cage or in another room he is 100% tame and he preens and sleeps and eats and everything is alright. What's going on with him?
 

Sky&Sunshine

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hmmmm.... well i'm not sure, i have never had a budgie in a cage, mine are in an aviary!
 

Mizzely

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Nothing is wrong,he is just trying to establish boundaries. A cage is a home, a nest, a sanctuary. If you were at home in your pajamas and your friends wanted you to come out to do something, and you didn't want to, would they drag you out? Probably not! Sure, you might enjoy yourself once you're out but at the moment it seems rude! Try to let your bird come out on his own. Open the door as an invitation to come out, but don't force him out or off his cage. That respect will be great for your relationship!
 

Saya

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Nothing is wrong,he is just trying to establish boundaries. A cage is a home, a nest, a sanctuary. If you were at home in your pajamas and your friends wanted you to come out to do something, and you didn't want to, would they drag you out? Probably not! Sure, you might enjoy yourself once you're out but at the moment it seems rude! Try to let your bird come out on his own. Open the door as an invitation to come out, but don't force him out or off his cage. That respect will be great for your relationship!
Thank you so much for the advice!! But i do have one more question if you could help me with it. I have another budgie in the same room (different cage) and the breeder i bought them from said i would have to take them into seperate rooms to bond with them. How should i take my bird out? or away? I really don't know :0
 

Mizzely

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Thank you so much for the advice!! But i do have one more question if you could help me with it. I have another budgie in the same room (different cage) and the breeder i bought them from said i would have to take them into seperate rooms to bond with them. How should i take my bird out? or away? I really don't know :0

This is, in my opinion, outdated advice :/ But if you want to try that approach, can you move the cage into another room to work separately? Or, once the bird is out of the cage on its own, will he step up for you? You could wait for him to come out then take him out of the room to work with him.
 

Begone

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I have another budgie in the same room (different cage) and the breeder i bought them from said i would have to take them into seperate rooms to bond with them. How should i take my bird out?
For tame training take one bird to another room in his cage and then let him out. Train for 30 min - 1 hrs every day with each bird.
Or except that they will bond to each other and have them out together instead. They can still be tame if you train them (spoiled them with some millet) every day.
I never train/tough my bird in his cage. The cage is his home and the bird needs a place to feel safe.
 

Saya

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This is, in my opinion, outdated advice :/ But if you want to try that approach, can you move the cage into another room to work separately? Or, once the bird is out of the cage on its own, will he step up for you? You could wait for him to come out then take him out of the room to work with him.
Yeah he'll step up but only when he is off of his cage. The problem is he never gets off his cage :( Once he's in a different room he's fine or on the floor away from his cage. Thankyou i will definately try this !!
 

HawkEagle

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I have a budgie too and he only likes three places: the cage, my hand or the computer! I think he is just a timid bird, and as for the taming- I am not very sure as I only own one budgie.
 

Saya

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Thank you !! Yeah my budgie doesn't get along with the other bird so when i tried to put them together he was overly dominant and borderline aggressive. He's a one person kind of bird :shifty:. How do you get yours out of the cage?
 

Saya

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How long have you had it?
4 months, i got him when he as 6 weeks. He was returned to the breeder twice cause the first two owners called him a "shizz head"
 

Danita

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Take you time with him, lots of time, just don't push him to hard. He needs to learn you are safe and can be trusted. He may have had people that have really forced themselves on him.
 

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Cross-posting from the other thread on same topic....


Start from the cage, not away from the cage. I learned that same advice 16 years ago. Now? I believe it's just bad advice!

I also don't believe that a bird *needs* to be clipped in order to tame them.


Millet or other favorite treats can go a long way into earning their trust! ;)






Most birds are probably cage aggressive because they don't have good experience with hands around their cages. It's not because they are trying to be "dominant", or they're being "territorial" over their cage (which that can indeed happen!). A lot of birds also find safety in their cage, so if they feel the need to go back to their cage, let them. This tells them that it's ok to be with you if you wont hold them back. You just need to convince them that spending time with you is a reward in itself. If the bird is happy being on you when you stand next to the cage (and the bird is not being restricted from going back to their cage), that's a great sign!


If they still feel the need to be at their cage, that's ok, too! Don't force him away from the cage if you don't have to. Make it his choice to leave his cage, but make it rewarding! This will create a stronger bond and trust between you and him. :)



(more info)


Keep training sessions short! It's better to do multiple 30 second to 5 minute training sessions a day rather than 30-60 minute training sessions once or twice a day! When I was feeding my budgies by hand, it was maybe 15 minutes max once a day, every day. I wasn't trying to train any specific behaviors though, such as step up. Nor was I actually trying to "tame" them, in the sense that most people use. It was merely a social interaction and trust forming type of 'training'.


I also don't believe that the birds need to be separated in order to tame them. Monkey see, monkey do. If one bird watches the interaction of another with a human, it's possible to tame two (or more) birds together. Because I was working with 5 adult, flighted budgies, I ended up working with 5 adult cockatiels, most flighted. At least two were ex-breeders, too! One probably parent raised, the others hand raised and then ignored and neglected or unknown. If I kept this behavior up with my current cockatiels, I could probably earn the trust of a wild caught african ringneck as well! When I fed the cockatiels by hand, she showed interest. She would fly over, scaring the cockatiels off, but then once the cockatiels were gone, she would lose what confidence she had and would fly off herself.



The first cockatiel was Sunshine. Her previous owner had bred her parents then hand raised her and kept her as one of their pets. Only, he was a kid that grew up and "forgot" about her and her family. After watching me feed the budgies by hand, she decided she wanted that same interaction with me, and ended up following me around the room waiting to be fed. It took me two weeks to figure out what it was that she wanted!!!




The next cockatiel, following Sunshine's lead, is Faye. Although I don't know Faye's full history, I'm sure she was hand raised and loved at some point in time, but ended up becoming neglected and passed around from home to home. She's been in at least 3 homes prior to mine and the last one was pretty horrible! You can see in the first video how hesitant and unsure she is. Likewise, behind and below her, there's food. She doesn't *have* to eat from my hands, but she's choosing to!




Which leads to the next video, where you can see her behavior is completely different than the first video! Also, I'm feeding her pellets by hand instead of seeds! ;)





Which leads to the third video... (ignore the third cockatiel, Casey! she climbed up my arm!) This video shows Pistachio (plucked head 'tiel), Sunshine's father. He used to be a *very* skittish bird, to the point that I couldn't get anywhere close to him without him freaking out. He's still a skittish bird, but not like he used to be. In fact, if I offer food or treats by hand, he's either the first or second cockatiel to come to me! The other cockatiel, Tomi Girl (looks like a healthy male but it is fact a female!) is another cockatiel from a bad home as well.





Taming a bird doesn't have to be that difficult, and it certainly doesn't need to take more than a few minutes a day! The main goal should be to keep *every* interaction with a bird a positive one! If the bird is avoiding you, "growling" or "hissing" at you, possibly even biting you, then it's not a positive experience for the bird. If this is happening, then you need to reevaluate your training techniques and try to figure out how to go at the bird's pace, so it can be a great experience for both of you!
 

Saya

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Joined
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Messages
45
Cross-posting from the other thread on same topic....


Start from the cage, not away from the cage. I learned that same advice 16 years ago. Now? I believe it's just bad advice!

I also don't believe that a bird *needs* to be clipped in order to tame them.


Millet or other favorite treats can go a long way into earning their trust! ;)






Most birds are probably cage aggressive because they don't have good experience with hands around their cages. It's not because they are trying to be "dominant", or they're being "territorial" over their cage (which that can indeed happen!). A lot of birds also find safety in their cage, so if they feel the need to go back to their cage, let them. This tells them that it's ok to be with you if you wont hold them back. You just need to convince them that spending time with you is a reward in itself. If the bird is happy being on you when you stand next to the cage (and the bird is not being restricted from going back to their cage), that's a great sign!


If they still feel the need to be at their cage, that's ok, too! Don't force him away from the cage if you don't have to. Make it his choice to leave his cage, but make it rewarding! This will create a stronger bond and trust between you and him. :)



(more info)


Keep training sessions short! It's better to do multiple 30 second to 5 minute training sessions a day rather than 30-60 minute training sessions once or twice a day! When I was feeding my budgies by hand, it was maybe 15 minutes max once a day, every day. I wasn't trying to train any specific behaviors though, such as step up. Nor was I actually trying to "tame" them, in the sense that most people use. It was merely a social interaction and trust forming type of 'training'.


I also don't believe that the birds need to be separated in order to tame them. Monkey see, monkey do. If one bird watches the interaction of another with a human, it's possible to tame two (or more) birds together. Because I was working with 5 adult, flighted budgies, I ended up working with 5 adult cockatiels, most flighted. At least two were ex-breeders, too! One probably parent raised, the others hand raised and then ignored and neglected or unknown. If I kept this behavior up with my current cockatiels, I could probably earn the trust of a wild caught african ringneck as well! When I fed the cockatiels by hand, she showed interest. She would fly over, scaring the cockatiels off, but then once the cockatiels were gone, she would lose what confidence she had and would fly off herself.



The first cockatiel was Sunshine. Her previous owner had bred her parents then hand raised her and kept her as one of their pets. Only, he was a kid that grew up and "forgot" about her and her family. After watching me feed the budgies by hand, she decided she wanted that same interaction with me, and ended up following me around the room waiting to be fed. It took me two weeks to figure out what it was that she wanted!!!




The next cockatiel, following Sunshine's lead, is Faye. Although I don't know Faye's full history, I'm sure she was hand raised and loved at some point in time, but ended up becoming neglected and passed around from home to home. She's been in at least 3 homes prior to mine and the last one was pretty horrible! You can see in the first video how hesitant and unsure she is. Likewise, behind and below her, there's food. She doesn't *have* to eat from my hands, but she's choosing to!




Which leads to the next video, where you can see her behavior is completely different than the first video! Also, I'm feeding her pellets by hand instead of seeds! ;)





Which leads to the third video... (ignore the third cockatiel, Casey! she climbed up my arm!) This video shows Pistachio (plucked head 'tiel), Sunshine's father. He used to be a *very* skittish bird, to the point that I couldn't get anywhere close to him without him freaking out. He's still a skittish bird, but not like he used to be. In fact, if I offer food or treats by hand, he's either the first or second cockatiel to come to me! The other cockatiel, Tomi Girl (looks like a healthy male but it is fact a female!) is another cockatiel from a bad home as well.





Taming a bird doesn't have to be that difficult, and it certainly doesn't need to take more than a few minutes a day! The main goal should be to keep *every* interaction with a bird a positive one! If the bird is avoiding you, "growling" or "hissing" at you, possibly even biting you, then it's not a positive experience for the bird. If this is happening, then you need to reevaluate your training techniques and try to figure out how to go at the bird's pace, so it can be a great experience for both of you!
Thank you so much!! I will definately try this it is very comperhensive !!<3
 
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