It's just extra hard when it's 2 people and it's very hard if one is already at their limits..and I get it , it's very very hard to have constant screaming.
For excessive screaming , beyond a birds normal of screeching. There is a reason the behavior developed , sometimes multiple. Usually it's a frustration, these are highly social creatures that evolved to always be with mate or extended family and flock . While we know that, it's really deep seated , a bird alone is vulnerable or soon taken by predators. It's a hard wired instinct. Birds aren't domestic yet. Some individuals and some species adapt better to our lifestyle. But we are their flock and family. Parrots most species are daytime active, and evolved to be very active, unlike our predators who spend many down hours napping. They are also highly intelligent with complex social self identity and not hierarchy. It's just good to remind ourselves and future parrot parents of this . They are not easy pets , and they make a lot of sacrifices we can forget by being in our lives .
So my advice always starts with a whole life approach, and it's not ever directed at you or anyone to say you aren't already a fabulous bird mom . You can start with observations, and work really hard to observe with fresh eyes to be open to what you observe and not what you think you will see . Make notes , what are the triggers for screaming, what are the times of day , what going on around inside, and sometimes outside. When are their normal daytime naps or quite times or busy times . Because later , you can work those in and extend quiet times . You can pair quite soothing music with nap times and bedtime, when there is an established pattern , there can be some success playing that same music before known scream triggers, or at the very start of scream session to break the pattern.
This is the basics , but basics are the place to start because they are so important. They have always played a critical role in rehab of behavioral issues for me ..
Ok back to whole life. Most parrot cages are not big enough, even if we think they are . The recommendations I see are for 2.5 of your birds to stand wings fully extended for the length of your cage , more is great heck we all probably need an aviary ..if your cage isn't at least double the wing span of your bird in length, I would try and upgrade, I've like new cages sold cheap with time and effort. Cage placement is important, being in the main living area is generally best to be part of the family and flock. Some birds are sensitive by being by doors where people or pets can suddenly appear. Be guided by your bird and life . Most birds are more comfortable if their main perch is st least as high as your chest when you are standing. Birds kept in cages on the floor are generally experience chronic stress.
Perches , I'm just going to throw out at least five , different types and diameter, one for your size bird need so as wide as your ok symbol with thumb and pointer fingers spread apart by an inch . This provides maximum support and relaxation of foot . So many perches are sold thst just aren't wide enough. It's great to have smaller and different for changing their grip.
Toys . Toys are not all the same . We have amazing vendors here that understand parrots and sell exceptional toys , that I only discovered after joining! Toys that excited and motivated my previous parrots who rarely interacted with toys before. At least one that is easy to destroy , many parrot toys sold are to hard of wood for our parrots beaks ( not talking those massive beaks or extra good wood chipping species) tho even those can get a lot of enjoyment shredded soft woods and fibers. And one harder wood toy . Then a mix of stuff , be creative, tailor to your individual, but I think five toys on average, save broken bits to make forage stuff.
Diet . Diet does impact behavior. I will give basics , because diet is a huge topic and we all are continuing to try to find the best for us and our parrots , and even then we all don't agree 100% what is the best.
parrots need fresh veggies, greens and some fruit , some species have higher or lower fruit needs. But generally for a conure , fruit should be between 10-15% of daily diet , I do less . I strive to have a lot of veggies daily, and try and rotate. I ve taken dedicated life long seed eaters and got them loving veggies, tho some it was years journey. I do serve pellets and I do serve seed mix at the end of the day , on seeds I aim for 25% of die hit, but minimum for a hook bill is 10% and you can save that for your treats and training. These recommendations are from a lot of reading and my opinion. So keep in mind opinion and research vary . But I see a lot of value in a diet like this with behavior, getting to have variety and being able to use beak and feet for eating. Incorporating foraging for food even better impact on behavior, tho you have to start simple and st your birds level and teach it .
I prefer to use shallow feeding dishes so birds can see and manipulate food better than a deep bowl , can file under preference, for me increased veg consumption and pellet consumption.
Bath . I think it's important to promote self choice. In every aspect of a parrots life if you can increase self directed behavior and choice it has postive impact on behavior issues. So I like to offer a wide sturdy dish with no more than 2 inches of water daily, they can choose to bathe or notm.still feel free to keep up any bathing stuff you normally do, like if they enjoy misting, or baths in sink , or what ever. But allow self choice too .
Keeping birds flighted allows the most self directed. Encourage in home flight , by having their own perches , hanging, stands spread out through the home, and doing in home recall flight training. Flight is the best exercise. Exercise has a positive impact on behavior. Birds enjoy climb and jumping and dangling as well .
Getting to be able to spend time outside safely can have a huge impact on behavior. I zip tie every opening and bottom tray and roll cages outside in light shade and never leave alone when possible
