SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!

[BigSkyMT]

If it helps any... the conure you have labeled as a sun conure is actually a jenday!

In regards to taming multiple birds... see this!

"Self-Tamed" Cockatiels | Avian Avenue Parrot Forum


My first cockatiel is 16 1/2 years old, and I've had her since she was 5 months old. I never got to pick her out, meet her or anything before getting her. In fact, she was mine before I even knew it! And I don't regret it! Friends of the family knew I loved birds and had a friend that bred cockatiels. Their breeder friend had one cockatiel left that hadn't sold, so they got her for me. She's always been a pretty confident cockatiel though, and she's had her flights for the majority of her life as well. The breeder named her Casey, and well, the name stuck!


Of the rehomed cockatiels I've cared for over the years, most were surprisingly really tame and friendly. The ones that weren't were the breeding pair, but even then, both came to trust humans to a certain extent. (wasn't really trying to tame them... but you can read about it in above link!)



Any idea what mutations Hercules parents are?

Thank you for replying! I'm not sure of his parents mutations, but Hercules is a pearl pied. To me he looks like a cinnamon pearl pied but I'm not sure. So excited for Thursday! I have went thru my house 3 times trying to perfect everything. Yesterday I spent 3 hours making more toys for him. I set up a carrier also. I drilled holes in it so I could put in perches. I also added a deep water dish attached to the door. Is this a bad idea? I figured 2hr ride home he would want some water. This site is truly a blessing! I am so appreciative of all your replies. Wish it was Thursday already!

 

[BigSkyMT]

It sounds like the breeder is nice and you just got a shy baby who might take a little longer to settle in.
You don't need to avoid talking, it's one of the best ways to bond with a baby.
The 2 hr car ride shouldn't be a problem. For travel, use a small cage, put a towel in the bottom, and one LOW perch, no toys or anything else. You could also put a piece of millet or other bit of food in there, but I wouldn't give him water as it might slosh around and get him wet. Bring another towel to cover the cage top and sides if he seems nervous. He should be just fine.
Again it's great to talk to him all you want. But once you get him home, give him a day or two to settle in before taking him out if he seems shy. If he seems to want to come out, then it's fine to take him out once he's had a little time to settle in and find his food and water.

Thanks for replying. So I made a carrier with a deep water dish attached to the cage. So your telling me to not worry about water? Just thought 2 hrs he might want a drink. What if I only filled it halfway with water then it shouldn't spill at all. I'm so excited I am beside myself

 

[BigSkyMT]

Another question?
When I get Hercules home-
How did you guys get your new friend into thier cage? I've heard of many methods.what has worked best for you guys?
Hold carrier to thr door & wait for him to go in. Others say just grab him, put him in his cage & walk away. What do my new friends suggest I do fir bird first day home?

 

[SquawksNibbles]

Another question?
When I get Hercules home-
How did you guys get your new friend into thier cage? I've heard of many methods.what has worked best for you guys?
Hold carrier to thr door & wait for him to go in. Others say just grab him, put him in his cage & walk away. What do my new friends suggest I do fir bird first day home?

Definitely do NOT grab him and put him in there. As I said in my first reply here on this thread, birds (especially the smaller ones), hate being grabbed. Grabbing them just teaches them to be afraid of hands and may also hurt you guys' bond/trust. I would maybe just hold the carrier up to the door and wait for him to go in himself. If, after a little while, he doesn't do this, perhaps drop a treat in his cage to lure him out.

 

[BigSkyMT]

Definitely do NOT grab him and put him in there. As I said in my first reply here on this thread, birds (especially the smaller ones), hate being grabbed. Grabbing them just teaches them to be afraid of hands and may also hurt you guys' bond/trust. I would maybe just hold the carrier up to the door and wait for him to go in himself. If, after a little while, he doesn't do this, perhaps drop a treat in his cage to lure him out.

Okay great. That's what I was planning on doing. What if I can get him to step up, then is it okay to place him in his cage if he doesn't go on his own?

 

[SquawksNibbles]

So excited for Thursday! I have went thru my house 3 times trying to perfect everything. Yesterday I spent 3 hours making more toys for him. I set up a carrier also

Sounds like you are already being a responsible and good parront!

So I made a carrier with a deep water dish attached to the cage. So your telling me to not worry about water? Just thought 2 hrs he might want a drink. What if I only filled it halfway with water then it shouldn't spill at all.

You know what you could do? Try offering him some water before the car ride and obviously give him some when he gets settled in his cage once you get home. Or if you guys stop during the car ride for a bathroom break or something you can try offering him some then, too. However, offering him some during the car ride is not necessary. If you want to, you can, however. But if you do put water in there during the ride, you don't need to overdo it.

 

[SquawksNibbles]

Okay great. That's what I was planning on doing. What if I can get him to step up, then is it okay to place him in his cage if he doesn't go on his own?

If he steps up on his own, reward him with a treat and slowly move your hand in the cage and wait for him to hop down. But I would not force him to step up. But if he does step up then it is for sure ok to place him in the cage that way.

 

[Tiel Feathers]

It's okay to put some water in his cage, but if he's nervous, he probably won't drink any. You'll have to see how he is when you get home. If he steps up, great. If he's too scared, put the carrier up to the cage as already suggested. Good luck on the drive. How exciting!

 

[finchly]

To transfer to another cage: Here is something I do with finches. Hold up the cage, and if he doesn’t fly into the other one or if my arm is going numb, take a pencil and slowly push it between the cage bars near his tail. Usually he’ll fly straight into the other cage.

 

[Begone]

They often never drinks, and 2 hrs is no problem at all.
I have a smaller food bowl in my travel cage and I put slices of apple and carrots in it. Apple contain water, and many birds likes apple.
Much better then to give them seeds/pellets if they don't have any water.

What if I can get him to step up, then is it okay to place him in his cage if he doesn't go on his own?

Use a long stick while holding the cage to the other cage door. Use the stick to bring him out if he will not go on his own.
It's better that he gets a little bit afraid of the stick, then of you. I would not try to make him step up, create a trusting bond first.

Good luck and drive safely!

 

[Begone]

To transfer to another cage: Here is something I do with finches. Hold up the cage, and if he doesn’t fly into the other one or if my arm is going numb, take a pencil and slowly push it between the cage bars near his tail. Usually he’ll fly straight into the other cage.

Yes, I meant the same, but I use a stick.

 

[BigSkyMT]

Great advice! Thank you guys & having fresh apple slices is what I'm going to do! Is it Thursday yet??!
I will keep you all posted. Cannot thank you guys enough for being so kind and taking time out of your day to help me!

 

[BigSkyMT]

Here are some pics of the carrier I setup for him. I will put apple slices in the cup (plastic cup is just temporary until my stainless steel ones arrive) & I wrapped one of the perches in siesel string (natural, untreated) for extra grip. I purchased a large travel cage for him, but I can't see me holding it up to his new cage for an hour until he comes out so this is small, light weight and I hope will work for one time use (2hr car ride home). Would you guys switch it up at all? Also here is an updated pic of his play stand we made him with some extra toys. All children toys (BPA free) that I used were soaked in diluted bleach water & rinsed thoroughly. Also added a pic of how I used river rock (also cleaned using white vinegar & soaking) to cover the soil of my bird safe plants. These ones are dracena (on the safe list) I have them in the windowsill by his play stand. The play stand is made out of mountain ash. Also on the bird safe list. Cleaned thoroughly & left it outside for a week when we had -15F nights to kill any bacteria that might have survived my cleaning. Do you like the child play spoons (BPA free) I added with siesel string? Also used some bird popsicle sticks I bought on amazon. Question? Do you guys have bird safe house plants & do your cockatiels pay much attention to them? I always have sprouts growing. Ducks & geese love them! Maybe if I Provided fresh sprouts everyday he might show less interest in my Christmas cactus and dracenas? Also, will the beads on my playstand be okay with a cockatiel? They are big enough he couldn't swallow them.Marble sized? Thank you all & hope you enjoy the pics!

 

[BigSkyMT]

Yes, I meant the same, but I use a stick.

Great tips thanks you!
I plan to target train Hercules, will using the stick be a bad idea if I'm going to be using a stick target train him or will it not mkle a difference? Target training won't be for a couple weeks after he is home & adjusted to his new home. Thanks for replying!

 

[Begone]

I plan to target train Hercules, will using the stick be a bad idea if I'm going to be using a stick target train him or will it not male a difference?

I'm sure that it will be no problem. He will probably don't remember what it was that was trying to eat his tail.
But I'm not sure that you will need to use a stick, they often just are happy to be let out.

When I was getting Akela home (wild and parent raised) I put her carrier on a chair and then uncover her at the same time as I opening the carriers door.
She was terrified of people, so I was standing under a blanket behind her doing this.

Your carrier and set up are fine.
The beads are safe, but not the plants. That they are safe for birds is not the same as they can used as food.
When you see that he is eating of them you can do something about it. Not every bird are interested and eats plants.

I see one thing that is very dangerous in your set up. Every thing that they can get around their neck can kill them if they get trapped. (sadly common)
So never ever have rope loops like that. And also never have any kind of hanging strings and ropes inside the cage as they are mostly unsupervised their.

 

[Monica]

Hercules does indeed appear to be cinnamon pearl pied - which is the same exact mutation as what my Casey is - and she's female! So I'm leaning towards the fact that Hercules is more likely to be female than male - hence asking parents genetics! (cinnamon and pearl are both sex linked mutations - in order to get visual females, only their feathers need to carry the mutations - however, in order to get visual males, both parents must carry the mutations)


Carrier looks great! He (or she), might not drink much on the right home, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to offer a *little* water!

I'm kind of hesitant though about the stringed beads or just long loose string in general. Potential hazards, is all. Not about him swallowing the beads, just loose string getting cause around body parts. Even if the beads are tight, he could always chew it apart and cause a problem. Basically, same concern as Eloy.

What diet is the breeder weaning the chicks onto?



As far as getting into the cage... you could...

1. Set the carrier door up against the cage door and wait for him to come out
2. Place the carrier in the cage with the door open
3. Place the carrier in the cage and remove the top

If he's willing to step up, that would be okay, too! If not, just let him come out on his own. It'll be a little scary! Might also help to give him places to "hide" in the cage and make sure to place food and water up high so it's easier for him to access it. Once he gets more comfortable in his new environment and cage, you can move the dishes anywhere!



And I don't keep plants... they usually died or the animals would attempt to eat them... well, the birds and/or cats would... didn't help that some of the plants weren't safe to begin with... (not of my own choosing - this being years ago)


Target training could begin as early as the first week!

 

[MommyBird]

I also wanted to caution against the long strings. Sadly, AA has lost some of its dear friends to entanglement.
Look for skewers to hang things on, use short leather lace, or use some of the plastic chain and closed quick links to hang things like you've done more safely than with string.

 

[TikiMyn]

You could also cover strings by stringing straws on them, that is what I do if I have to use string.

 

[BigSkyMT]

I'm sure that it will be no problem. He will probably don't remember what it was that was trying to eat his tail.
But I'm not sure that you will need to use a stick, they often just are happy to be let out.

When I was getting Akela home (wild and parent raised) I put her carrier on a chair and then uncover her at the same time as I opening the carriers door.
She was terrified of people, so I was standing under a blanket behind her doing this.

Your carrier and set up are fine.
The beads are safe, but not the plants. That they are safe for birds is not the same as they can used as food.
When you see that he is eating of them you can do something about it. Not every bird are interested and eats plants.

I see one thing that is very dangerous in your set up. Every thing that they can get around their neck can kill them if they get trapped. (sadly common)
So never ever have rope loops like that. And also never have any kind of hanging strings and ropes inside the cage as they are mostly unsupervised their.

View attachment 270713

Great to know! Thank you! So scary being a new bird Momma. The simplest things could kill my baby! Thank you guys for responding! I will remove and loops and long strings. You guys might have saved Hercules life before he even got home! Thank you so very much! I love you guys!

 

[BigSkyMT]

Hercules does indeed appear to be cinnamon pearl pied - which is the same exact mutation as what my Casey is - and she's female! So I'm leaning towards the fact that Hercules is more likely to be female than male - hence asking parents genetics! (cinnamon and pearl are both sex linked mutations - in order to get visual females, only their feathers need to carry the mutations - however, in order to get visual males, both parents must carry the mutations)


Carrier looks great! He (or she), might not drink much on the right home, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to offer a *little* water!

I'm kind of hesitant though about the stringed beads or just long loose string in general. Potential hazards, is all. Not about him swallowing the beads, just loose string getting cause around body parts. Even if the beads are tight, he could always chew it apart and cause a problem. Basically, same concern as Eloy.

What diet is the breeder weaning the chicks onto?



As far as getting into the cage... you could...

1. Set the carrier door up against the cage door and wait for him to come out
2. Place the carrier in the cage with the door open
3. Place the carrier in the cage and remove the top

If he's willing to step up, that would be okay, too! If not, just let him come out on his own. It'll be a little scary! Might also help to give him places to "hide" in the cage and make sure to place food and water up high so it's easier for him to access it. Once he gets more comfortable in his new environment and cage, you can move the dishes anywhere!



And I don't keep plants... they usually died or the animals would attempt to eat them... well, the birds and/or cats would... didn't help that some of the plants weren't safe to begin with... (not of my own choosing - this being years ago)


Target training could begin as early as the first week!

More great advice! I will remove the beads just to be safe. Also, the breeder has you pay an extra $20 for 3 months worth of food, veggie cubes frozen, 2 cuttlefish bones & a big bag of millet. I don't know what she uses for a staple diet but whatever it is I plan to keep him on her "diet" until he adjusts to our home, then I ordered zupreem pellets I'd like to convert him to. From what I've read this is the diet I plan to convert him to. Please let me know if this is incorrect or if I should do something different.

Daily Diet:
40%-45% zupreem cockatiel pellets
20-35% fresh veggies & fruit
10-15% seeds (treats, foraging & training)

Does this sound like the healthiest diet I can provide for him?

Also what is your guys feeding schedule?
I wanted to do something like this

Morning- Fresh food & water bowls
(maybe few treats in between and 10-15 min training session with treats)
Afternoon- Fresh veggies & fruit
(Fresh water & maybe some treats and 10-15 min training)
Evening- Fresh food & water
(Maybe a nutriberrie for snack right before bed)

What do you guys do for feeding throughout the day? Also, do you wait for night time dinner for when it's time for him to return to his cage for bed, so he doesn't feel like bedtime is a punishment, but time for dinner & a treat?