Snake question

[Cockatoo-Dust]

I have decided I'm going to get a snake in 2016. The reason it's so far away from now is because i told myself i cannot get another pet this year, so, i will take this year to learn everything i can about snakes. Right now i know pretty much nothing. I know that you need a big tank to keep them in, and that they sometimes need UV lights, and they need heating floor panel things.
Going on google isn't really helping with anything unless it's really as simple as putting a snake in a tank with a heat pad, stuff to climb on, a hidey hole, a water bowl, and feeding it once a week and keeping up with the cage. Along with monitoring the temperature/humidity inside the tank.
Is there any good beginner snakes, or ones that are particularly less-aggressive, like being handled more?
I'm guessing that mostly it depends on that snakes' personality. And not being too large is a bonus. (Like 3-4 feet long as adult.)
Like i said, i don't know anything about snakes yet, and if i later decide they're not for me, i won't get one. Simple, right?

 

[Greycloud]

@Casey

 

[sonja]

Corn snakes make great beginner snakes. They come in lots of colors for not too much money and their needs can easily be met by beginners. They are generally quite docile. They will easily eat frozen / thawed rodents. They don't get too big.
Snakes don't require UV lighting.

 

[Ribbit21]

Corn snakes are great for beginners. They are very easy to keep, don't get very large, and generally are great eaters. I have a 10 yr old female named Daisy. They can be docile as long as you handle them regularly, although mine doesn't really like to be held at all. Ball pythons are also great if you want something a bit larger. They are known for being very docile and easy to handle. They can be picky eaters though.

 

[SandraK]

I'd have 2 questions - why do you want to get a snake? and, more than one member here has said there's no such thing as a beginner bird so is there really such a thing as a beginner snake? I am not trying to diss anyone, I am asking a couple of frank questions which I do not mean to be personal. (And I've been told that sometimes I am too direct, so please bear with me.)

While I like how snakes feel, have handled some and am not afraid of them, I (personally) would have reservations about having a snake and birds in the same house. That said, I know AA has several members who have both but I'm assuming (also dangerous) that there are precautions and restrictions in place to safeguard everyone. In Casey's situation, I believe she has a license to own/handle certain venomous species but then again, that is in Australia. I don't know if there are any similar requirements/restrictions in the U.S.

 

[Ribbit21]

I'd have 2 questions - why do you want to get a snake? and, more than one member here has said there's no such thing as a beginner bird so is there really such a thing as a beginner snake? I am not trying to diss anyone, I am asking a couple of frank questions which I do not mean to be personal. (And I've been told that sometimes I am too direct, so please bear with me.)

While I like how snakes feel, have handled some and am not afraid of them, I (personally) would have reservations about having a snake and birds in the same house. That said, I know AA has several members who have both but I'm assuming (also dangerous) that there are precautions and restrictions in place to safeguard everyone. In Casey's situation, I believe she has a license to own/handle certain venomous species but then again, that is in Australia. I don't know if there are any similar requirements/restrictions in the U.S.

Snakes are quite different than birds. I think it's less about a "beginner" snake and more about the level of care involved in a certain species. Some snakes eat certain foods or need a larger enclosure. I think many people think of a huge python when someone says snake. I wouldn't recommend a large python to ANYONE let alone someone that has birds. Unfortunately those snakes are pretty easy to buy as babies in pet stores.

As for keeping snakes certain safeguards can be put in place. A proper snake enclosure is escape proof. My corn snakes cage has locks that snap onto the top of the aquarium. Birds and snakes shouldn't be kept in the same room together since the presence of the snake might bother the bird. It's really no different than having cats/dogs/really any other animal along with birds. Keep everyone separate and safe and everyone stays happy.

 

[SandraK]

The closest thing to a reptile that I've ever had to take care of was a newt and I do know they're completely different. I guess only @Cockatoo-Dust can really answer the "why?" to a snake.

 

[Cockatoo-Dust]

I was pretty much aiming for a smaller species of snake, mainly because i have birds and i would not be comfortable with something as large as a python being in the same house as them. No way.
Hmm.... @SandraK , To answer your questions, I would like to try a reptile for once, and i've handled lots of other people's snakes before and i found them to be quite interesting. That's why i'm researching now, way before getting ANY snake.
I guess there isn't really a "beginner" snake, just as much as there isn't a "beginner" bird, now that i think about it...

With me having pets that are prey, i knew that if i were to get anything that eats small things, or birds in particular, would need to be put in a different room.
I know someone (not on the forum) who has parrots and snakes and they made it work to have both, as well as cats, dogs, and a falconry bird at the same time.

 

[Apollo Bird]

Personally, the first snake I ever owned was a royal-morph ball python, however I would not recommend that as a beginner snake. They are very sensitive to changes in environment and, if you don't handle them enough, they get nippy. They're also prone to accidentally tightening around your arm too much. (Caspian, our ball, cut off circulation in my mom's hand for a minute or two before we could get him off). He died because of a sudden change in the room he was kept in we didn't think about (people started working out in there and the vibrations aggravated him )

I'd suggest a corn snake, they're usually pretty docile, less sensitive (we had some in my school's library growing up, and they didn't have heating pads or anything and are still alive today), and good 'starter' birds if you're up for the commitment. You might want to make sure you can stomach feeding mice to an animal as well. Frozen is best, because live rats/mice can scratch and harm snakes. Also, be prepared to touch the mice too, especially if you get a younger snake; we had to force-feed Caspian his at first because he didn't know how to strike at first and wouldn't eat.

 

[Cockatoo-Dust]

Personally, the first snake I ever owned was a royal-morph ball python, however I would not recommend that as a beginner snake. They are very sensitive to changes in environment and, if you don't handle them enough, they get nippy. They're also prone to accidentally tightening around your arm too much. (Caspian, our ball, cut off circulation in my mom's hand for a minute or two before we could get him off). He died because of a sudden change in the room he was kept in we didn't think about (people started working out in there and the vibrations aggravated him )

I'd suggest a corn snake, they're usually pretty docile, less sensitive (we had some in my school's library growing up, and they didn't have heating pads or anything and are still alive today), and good 'starter' birds if you're up for the commitment. You might want to make sure you can stomach feeding mice to an animal as well. Frozen is best, because live rats/mice can scratch and harm snakes. Also, be prepared to touch the mice too, especially if you get a younger snake; we had to force-feed Caspian his at first because he didn't know how to strike at first and wouldn't eat.

Looks like everybody says corn snakes are easiest. I'll now know to look into that species some more.
Feeding dead stuff to a snake is the best part! If i didn't know that, i wouldn't even be serious, now would i?

 

[SandraK]

I was pretty much aiming for a smaller species of snake, mainly because i have birds and i would not be comfortable with something as large as a python being in the same house as them. No way.
Hmm.... @SandraK , To answer your questions, I would like to try a reptile for once, and i've handled lots of other people's snakes before and i found them to be quite interesting. That's why i'm researching now, way before getting ANY snake.
I guess there isn't really a "beginner" snake, just as much as there isn't a "beginner" bird, now that i think about it...

With me having pets that are prey, i knew that if i were to get anything that eats small things, or birds in particular, would need to be put in a different room.
I know someone (not on the forum) who has parrots and snakes and they made it work to have both, as well as cats, dogs, and a falconry bird at the same time.

I asked because I don't personally know anyone who owns both birds and snakes. I'm not afraid of snakes when given one to hold but I have a healthy respect for any snake I'd find in the wild. A snake has never been something I've wanted to hve or handle at home. A matter of choices and desires maybe?

 

[Cockatoo-Dust]

Alright. So i went on Google and typed in "adult corn snake tank size" .. It said a 20 gallon long tank, 30 inch long, 15 inch wide. Is that accurate? I certainly don't want to get misinformed about the correct size, so that's why I'm asking.

It's funny how i won't get one for at least a year, but I'm researching now and it's only January.

 

[sonja]

Yes, a 20 long is going to be fine for all but the very largest of corn snakes. If you want to give an adult a bit more room, a 30 breeder is a nice size.

 

[Bokkapooh]

Join a snack or reptile forum. Unless the snake grows over 6 ft long, most smaller snakes can be kept very comfortably in What is known as a "tub". Like see through storage tubs. And the snakes PREFER THEM. Like ball pythons do SO MUCH BETTER in a tub than a tank! Big time!!

 

[Bokkapooh]

I would say corn snakes can grow bigger than most ball pythons. But ball pythons grow thicker.

My ball pythons who is 9 years old is about 5ft long, popped (sexed) a male and is about 3.5" diameter. My moms corn snake is about 6ft long. Same age. And only 2-3" long obese. We've had both since hatch.

 

[Klomonx]

If you don't want to feed rodents, look into Garter Snakes :3 for a long time I wanted one, until parents made it clear anything that needs a light on all day was too dangerous.

 

[Bokkapooh]

Under tank heaters

 

[Cockatoo-Dust]

Join a snack or reptile forum. Unless the snake grows over 6 ft long, most smaller snakes can be kept very comfortably in What is known as a "tub". Like see through storage tubs. And the snakes PREFER THEM. Like ball pythons do SO MUCH BETTER in a tub than a tank! Big time!!

So an average size corn snake can be kept in a tub? That is a good advantage price wise, tubs are way cheaper than a 20 gallon tank.

 

[Samurai]

I love snakes and have 3 myself. There is a huge variety when it comes to snakes. Some are often labelled as beginners snakes but if theres another species that appeals to you more then research and go for that, they live a long time and often people get bored of the snake that wasn't really their first choice. I have 3 snakes, a rainbow boa, king snake and a boa constrictor and none have caused problems around my other pets. I take them out of their vivs and handle them in a room where there are no pets. Snakes are like parrots in that you are likely to get bitten at some point, it doesn't hurt if it's a small snake but can be a bit of a shock.
Some popular species that would suit most homes and are small and handleable are:

• Corn snakes: usually docile (although individuals vary and some are biters), they come in a huge variety of colours and they are very easy to get hold of as youngsters and adults, they are hugely popular and easy to care for. The corn snake is part of the rat snake family which includes many species such as the grey and everglades which are also attractive and easy to care for. They are quite often out and about during the day and are naturally semi arboreal 9living in shrubs) and appreciate branches and shelves although often they don't get given much and are kept in enriched tubs . They are like the budgie or hamster of the snake world and are often not kept in a way that shows you their full potential.
• King and milk snakes: (sometimes nippy or musk when getting used to handling). There's lots of species of king snake, I have a Thayer's (aka variable) which is a very small variety, he's fast but doesn't bite, he's often out and about exploring in his vivarium which is a bonus with snakes as they are often pretty sedentary. There are many types of king snake and the most popular is probably the beautiful Californian king. Milk snakes are closely related to king snakes but are usually smaller and quite secretive but easy to care for, they tend to musk when afraid rather than bite. I chose my king snake as he is a small species and I love his colouring, he is often out exploring and really makes use of all his enrichment particularly live plants.
• Boa constrictors: there are many types of boa constrictor, some are small (dwarf boas), they are often referred to as locality boas as they occupy small areas or islands (cays) that have less food available and therefor the snakes evolved to be smaller (meaning they have the advantage of needing a lot less food and can get by with one feed a month), some popular types are the crawl cay and caulker cay. The dwarfs are classified as the same species as the common boa (bci) which may change in the future. The Hogg island boa which is often sold as a dwarf actually isn't a true dwarf and can be anything from 4 to 7ft, they are beautiful and not difficult to keep. There are also smaller boas that are line bred (bred to be smaller gradually by breeding from smaller adults). I have a male common boa who is about 6ft and not a big snake although he looks quite big next to a corn, there size is often exaggerated by people who know nothing about snakes, although you can get 9ft common boas. These boas are chunky and usually really nice to handle (sometimes the dwarfs can be a bit nippy). They are easy to care, my bci loves to explore his vivarium and is often out during the day, he loves to climb. I chose my boa (he's albino because I wanted a larger chunky snake that is fun to handle, he moves around quite a lot and investigate his surroundings, I think they are a beautiful species and love the shape of their heads.
• Rainbow boas: the Brazilian and Columbian are most popular (mine is a Caatinga which is a small variety). they require a bit more humidity that some species which is easy to maintain by providing a damp moss filled tub and a large water bowl close to the warm end of the viv. The Brazilian is longer and thinner and the Columbian slightly shorter and thicker. I chose my rainbow as when I was researching snakes and handled quite a few species, I loved that rainbow boas move around and reall investigate their environment, they are fun to handle (my guy bites but not all of them do). My rainbow likes live plants but these aren't essential.
• House snakes: these are very small African snakes about 3ft. They are easy to keep and handle but pretty secretive and not very colourful (but I think subtly beautiful). They are tiny as babies and quick but calm down with handling. The brown/common and cape are easiest to get hold of usually.
• Royal aka ball pythons: Chunky small pythons up to 6ft but usually smaller. They come in a large range of colours (known as morphs in snakes) and are hugely popular. They are very secretive snakes and tend to be slow moving a very calm to handle (as with all snakes, some will bite). They will very often fast (stop eating) for a couple of months which often worries new owners but is a natural behaviour, more common in males. They are easy to care for but prone to stress if over handled which can also make them go off their food. In the wild they spend a lot of time in rodent burrows but they do come out at night, often people will keep them in bland tubs using this natural behaviour to justify doing so but (with a few exceptions) generally thrive in more enriched setups.
• Children's and spotted pythons: another small python that isn't very colourful but easy to care for and handle.

There are hundreds of species to choose from and you have a whole year to choose snakes are one of those species which are usually quite addictive and people tend to get more than one eventually. Male snakes are usually smaller than females and most shops/breeders should be able to sex the snake for you.

Some other species which are usually easy to get hold of but have more specific requirements include:

• Garter snakes: They eat fish, earth worms and amphibians in the wild. As pets they usually have a diet that is mostly fish, this can create issues as some types of fish contain thiaminase which destroys vitamin b1 and this can be fatal to the snakes, you can feed them some rodents but they shouldn't have a diet that's 100% rodents as it's not ideal for their health. They are small, social snakes (which is unusual as majority of snakes are pretty solitary), active during the day (and therefor benefit from uv lighting) and they can be easily handled. They are prone to musking if not used to handling. The checkered is probably the most popular.
• Rough green snakes: These snakes are usually wild caught and extremely prone to stress, they don't do well with a lot of handling and are fairly easy to kill (by accident), I've mentioned them as some reptile shops often have them for sale and bad advice is often given out about them. They are insectivorous and will often not eat commercially raised insects. If they are wild caught they need to be fed wild caught insects then gradually weaned onto commercial insects as their gut flora needs to adjust. They are another communal snake and they are braver when kept in groups and are a good display snake if kept in a low traffic room. They must have uv lighting and are diurnal (active in the day). They thrive in a planted setup.

I prefer to keep my snakes in vivariums rather than tubs, my reasons are they are better insulated and help keep the temperature stable, provide privacy for the snake as they are usually only glass on one side, you can see your pet inside more easily and are more like a piece of furniture than just having a plastic box on the side. I'm happy with people keeping them in large tubs with space for enrichment inside but very often they just get provided with a plastic tub and a water bowl, maybe a hide box if they are lucky. Even snakes like royal pythons that are said to thrive in a tub and become stressed in a viv can thrive in a big space with plenty of hiding areas. If you are interested in creating a beautiful natural looking setup I highly recommend the book " the art of keeping snakes" by phillipe de vosjoli. I also prefer to use ceramic heat emitters to heat mats, if you decide to get a viv they are better to use, you must have a guard on them to prevent the snake getting burned and a thermostat. Thermostats are essential with any heat source!!!

Sorry for going on a bit but there is so much choice with snakes and I loved learning about them while I was researching and choosing the species I would like

A good forum is reptile fourums uk or rfuk for short

 

[Cockatoo-Dust]

I love snakes and have 3 myself. There is a huge variety when it comes to snakes. Some are often labelled as beginners snakes but if theres another species that appeals to you more then research and go for that, they live a long time and often people get bored of the snake that wasn't really their first choice. I have 3 snakes, a rainbow boa, king snake and a boa constrictor and none have caused problems around my other pets. I take them out of their vivs and handle them in a room where there are no pets. Snakes are like parrots in that you are likely to get bitten at some point, it doesn't hurt if it's a small snake but can be a bit of a shock.
Some popular species that would suit most homes and are small and handleable are:

• Corn snakes: usually docile (although individuals vary and some are biters), they come in a huge variety of colours and they are very easy to get hold of as youngsters and adults, they are hugely popular and easy to care for. The corn snake is part of the rat snake family which includes many species such as the grey and everglades which are also attractive and easy to care for. They are quite often out and about during the day and are naturally semi arboreal 9living in shrubs) and appreciate branches and shelves although often they don't get given much and are kept in enriched tubs . They are like the budgie or hamster of the snake world and are often not kept in a way that shows you their full potential.
• King and milk snakes: (sometimes nippy or musk when getting used to handling). There's lots of species of king snake, I have a Thayer's (aka variable) which is a very small variety, he's fast but doesn't bite, he's often out and about exploring in his vivarium which is a bonus with snakes as they are often pretty sedentary. There are many types of king snake and the most popular is probably the beautiful Californian king. Milk snakes are closely related to king snakes but are usually smaller and quite secretive but easy to care for, they tend to musk when afraid rather than bite. I chose my king snake as he is a small species and I love his colouring, he is often out exploring and really makes use of all his enrichment particularly live plants.
• Boa constrictors: there are many types of boa constrictor, some are small (dwarf boas), they are often referred to as locality boas as they occupy small areas or islands (cays) that have less food available and therefor the snakes evolved to be smaller (meaning they have the advantage of needing a lot less food and can get by with one feed a month), some popular types are the crawl cay and caulker cay. The dwarfs are classified as the same species as the common boa (bci) which may change in the future. The Hogg island boa which is often sold as a dwarf actually isn't a true dwarf and can be anything from 4 to 7ft, they are beautiful and not difficult to keep. There are also smaller boas that are line bred (bred to be smaller gradually by breeding from smaller adults). I have a male common boa who is about 6ft and not a big snake although he looks quite big next to a corn, there size is often exaggerated by people who know nothing about snakes, although you can get 9ft common boas. These boas are chunky and usually really nice to handle (sometimes the dwarfs can be a bit nippy). They are easy to care, my bci loves to explore his vivarium and is often out during the day, he loves to climb. I chose my boa (he's albino because I wanted a larger chunky snake that is fun to handle, he moves around quite a lot and investigate his surroundings, I think they are a beautiful species and love the shape of their heads.
• Rainbow boas: the Brazilian and Columbian are most popular (mine is a Caatinga which is a small variety). they require a bit more humidity that some species which is easy to maintain by providing a damp moss filled tub and a large water bowl close to the warm end of the viv. The Brazilian is longer and thinner and the Columbian slightly shorter and thicker. I chose my rainbow as when I was researching snakes and handled quite a few species, I loved that rainbow boas move around and reall investigate their environment, they are fun to handle (my guy bites but not all of them do). My rainbow likes live plants but these aren't essential.
• House snakes: these are very small African snakes about 3ft. They are easy to keep and handle but pretty secretive and not very colourful (but I think subtly beautiful). They are tiny as babies and quick but calm down with handling. The brown/common and cape are easiest to get hold of usually.
• Royal aka ball pythons: Chunky small pythons up to 6ft but usually smaller. They come in a large range of colours (known as morphs in snakes) and are hugely popular. They are very secretive snakes and tend to be slow moving a very calm to handle (as with all snakes, some will bite). They will very often fast (stop eating) for a couple of months which often worries new owners but is a natural behaviour, more common in males. They are easy to care for but prone to stress if over handled which can also make them go off their food. In the wild they spend a lot of time in rodent burrows but they do come out at night, often people will keep them in bland tubs using this natural behaviour to justify doing so but (with a few exceptions) generally thrive in more enriched setups.
• Children's and spotted pythons: another small python that isn't very colourful but easy to care for and handle.

There are hundreds of species to choose from and you have a whole year to choose snakes are one of those species which are usually quite addictive and people tend to get more than one eventually. Male snakes are usually smaller than females and most shops/breeders should be able to sex the snake for you.

Some other species which are usually easy to get hold of but have more specific requirements include:

• Garter snakes: They eat fish, earth worms and amphibians in the wild. As pets they usually have a diet that is mostly fish, this can create issues as some types of fish contain thiaminase which destroys vitamin b1 and this can be fatal to the snakes, you can feed them some rodents but they shouldn't have a diet that's 100% rodents as it's not ideal for their health. They are small, social snakes (which is unusual as majority of snakes are pretty solitary), active during the day (and therefor benefit from uv lighting) and they can be easily handled. They are prone to musking if not used to handling. The checkered is probably the most popular.
• Rough green snakes: These snakes are usually wild caught and extremely prone to stress, they don't do well with a lot of handling and are fairly easy to kill (by accident), I've mentioned them as some reptile shops often have them for sale and bad advice is often given out about them. They are insectivorous and will often not eat commercially raised insects. If they are wild caught they need to be fed wild caught insects then gradually weaned onto commercial insects as their gut flora needs to adjust. They are another communal snake and they are braver when kept in groups and are a good display snake if kept in a low traffic room. They must have uv lighting and are diurnal (active in the day). They thrive in a planted setup.

I prefer to keep my snakes in vivariums rather than tubs, my reasons are they are better insulated and help keep the temperature stable, provide privacy for the snake as they are usually only glass on one side, you can see your pet inside more easily and are more like a piece of furniture than just having a plastic box on the side. I'm happy with people keeping them in large tubs with space for enrichment inside but very often they just get provided with a plastic tub and a water bowl, maybe a hide box if they are lucky. Even snakes like royal pythons that are said to thrive in a tub and become stressed in a viv can thrive in a big space with plenty of hiding areas. If you are interested in creating a beautiful natural looking setup I highly recommend the book " the art of keeping snakes" by phillipe de vosjoli. I also prefer to use ceramic heat emitters to heat mats, if you decide to get a viv they are better to use, you must have a guard on them to prevent the snake getting burned and a thermostat. Thermostats are essential with any heat source!!!

Sorry for going on a bit but there is so much choice with snakes and I loved learning about them while I was researching and choosing the species I would like

A good forum is reptile fourums uk or rfuk for short

Thanks for the awesome info! Out of the options for housing the snake, i like the vivariums. They look much better than a tub, and they also seem pretty easy to build (I'm a huge DIY person).. As for snakes themselves, i like the corn snakes, as they are pretty much everything I'm looking for in a snake.
I'm not really worried about being bit, as I've been bit by a lot of things, and i doubt that a corn snake would do any major damage since they aren't poisonous.