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The Fine Line With Birds....sorry long....

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Stevo

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I agree and I would not push or force a fearful individual. Besides being very frightening for the animal flooding usually causes them to sensitize instead of desensitize also, which makes things worse. A lot of times people think an animal is "calm" or "ok" once they stop resisting but usually they have just given up and shut down.

One of my whole reasons for this thread was wanting to discuss this is because I do not want to flood or push an animal, particularly one that is fearful.
Yep, and unfortunately there is a chap in Darwin who works at one of the petshops who is so highly regarded by everyone for his 'training' and yet all he does is flood the birds into submission. I never let him near Danny :mad: All the customers see are the results and not the problems that will come from it.
 

BraveheartDogs

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Yep, and unfortunately there is a chap in Darwin who works at one of the petshops who is so highly regarded by everyone for his 'training' and yet all he does is flood the birds into submission. I never let him near Danny :mad: All the customers see are the results and not the problems that will come from it.
Right. That's really sad. There are dog trainers that do that too. See, now he is calm....no he isn't, if you can read body language AT ALL you can see that he is experiencing learned helplessness and has given up. I wish I could put a heart rate monitor on the animal so that people could see that they aren't "calm" they have just stopped fighting because they didn't have a choice:mad: Sensitive subject for me:confused:
 

MommyBird

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Yes Steve, and isn't it so much more fun for both of you? Very cool.

I have learned so much from my Amazons about pitching all that "my way or the highway" attitude and learning to not forget to think, actually BE calm, slow down, be flexible, and give them respect.
 

JLcribber

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For me it comes down to determining if they're uncomfortable or nervous about doing the behavior or if they just don't want to do it, even though they understand and are able to do the behavior. A lot of my decisions are based on some pretty subtle body language and context, enough so that it's hard for even me to say why I think, "he's just being stubborn" as opposed to "he's nervous about it."

If they're nervous, then I wouldn't force it unless it was so minor that I knew Jasper would be comfortable once the behavior was done (eg, having him step onto a strange new shower perch he wasn't 100% trusting of, that once he was on, he was fine with as I knew he would be). If he's just being stubborn or doesn't want to do something I know he can do, whether I force the issue depends on the situation. If it's something optional, I'll usually respect his wishes. If it's going back in his cage when I need him to, it's not optional and he will go back in his cage. I'll get a stick or grab his foot and really push him to cooperate. Then he gets a big treat for not biting the crap out of me for forcing the issue, because, even is he didn't *want* to, he DID perform the behavior I needed him to.
That is pretty well my take on it too. I would never force them to do anything if for one thing I did not know them well and we do trust each other. At this stage they "know" I am not going to put them in danger and I am the leader of this flock by example and by setting boundaries as the leader.

If they go up to the ceiling to enlarge the hole they already made (it's in a spot that I can't readily patch at this time :) ) all they need to hear is change in the tone of my voice and I tell them to "get down" they actually do because I mean business. They are immediately rewarded for doing it with praise and a scritch.

It's not something you would do with a bird that you absolutely do not know well and have truly earned their trust.

I have a very full trust account and the odd withdrawal is not going to run the bank down very much. :)
 

BraveheartDogs

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If they go up to the ceiling to enlarge the hole they already made (it's in a spot that I can't readily patch at this time :) ) all they need to hear is change in the tone of my voice and I tell them to "get down" they actually do because I mean business. They are immediately rewarded for doing it with praise and a scritch.

. :)
John,

What if they did not get down when you asked them to? Is there a consequence? How do they know you mean business? What happens when you mean business? Do you take them down? Did you initially? How did you train this to be on cue that when you say "get down" they come down (instead of giving you the middle finger, er, eh, feather and continuing with their chewing)? I get that they get rewarded for coming down, but what if chewing the hole was more reinforcing then coming down for a scritch? When did you start working on this behavior, I mean how long after you had them?

I mean, I know how I would personally train that behavior, but I am curious how all this came about.

Thank you everyone for such a rich and interesting discussion. I am LOVING it:hug8: It is going to be hard not to talk about it at my weekly behavior/training meeting tomorrow with all my trainer friends:p
 

J*M*L

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I've had great success in saying "NO" and putting my birds on the floor. I think they must feel like this is the worst punishment in the world- they always look at me in absolute horror! Almost as if to say "I know I bit the s*** out of you, but the FLOOR?! It's not like I bit your finger OFF!!" My lovebird never bites me hard. Usually only when she's overly excited or when I'm giving her scritches. I must be hitting a sensitive spot that hurts her, although I haven't figured out where that is. Now I'll just tell her "NO" and she'll look real sorry and give me a kiss. Or give me a real soft bite like "Uh... this is what I MEANT to do". My tiel only bites when she doesn't want to be picked up. Usually when she's playing by the computer or when she's sleeping. Although if I insist on moving her she won't keep biting me. When I tell her "NO" she usually stops, but not always. She never looks sorry, but most of the time she'll give in to what I want. Of course I understand it's different than most of your bigger birds. They seem to be a little more independent than smaller ones.
 

BraveheartDogs

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I've had great success in saying "NO" and putting my birds on the floor. I think they must feel like this is the worst punishment in the world- they always look at me in absolute horror! Almost as if to say "I know I bit the s*** out of you, but the FLOOR?! It's not like I bit your finger OFF!!" My lovebird never bites me hard. Usually only when she's overly excited or when I'm giving her scritches. I must be hitting a sensitive spot that hurts her, although I haven't figured out where that is. Now I'll just tell her "NO" and she'll look real sorry and give me a kiss. Or give me a real soft bite like "Uh... this is what I MEANT to do". My tiel only bites when she doesn't want to be picked up. Usually when she's playing by the computer or when she's sleeping. Although if I insist on moving her she won't keep biting me. When I tell her "NO" she usually stops, but not always. She never looks sorry, but most of the time she'll give in to what I want. Of course I understand it's different than most of your bigger birds. They seem to be a little more independent than smaller ones.
The word "no" is a conditioned punisher, the birds know that when you say "no" it will be followed by being on the floor which is punishing. If I pet a stimulated bird, or I scritched in a way that hurt them or made them uncomfortable then there is my trigger and I would work to learn the birds body language and avoid doing those things that provoke a bite. I believe that for my birds, being on the floor is scary and they feel insecure and unsure, I would never purposely put them there.

I don't believe that you can look at an animal and know if it's "sorry". We don't even know if animals feel "sorry" although there is evidence that they experience emotions but they don't know to what extent. There is some very cool research being done on this, but I am not sure of all the species it's being done on. I think being "sorry" is a human construct.
 

Mystics Mom

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i always think..ABCs of training ...if i dont want the behavior i change the consiquence or anticedent to get the behavior i want...it really makes life simple i dont try to figure what they are thinking or why they did it i just change things around to get the behavior i want...if any one is interested..Natural encounters with Steve Martin....i went to his ranch for couple wks of training it was with him and Susan Friedman it is a wonderful experience....Susan has a online class also :D
 

Stevo

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i always think..ABCs of training ...if i dont want the behavior i change the consiquence or anticedent to get the behavior i want...it really makes life simple i dont try to figure what they are thinking or why they did it i just change things around to get the behavior i want...if any one is interested..Natural encounters with Steve Martin....i went to his ranch for couple wks of training it was with him and Susan Friedman it is a wonderful experience....Susan has a online class also :D
When did you do the workgroup Tanya? Always nice to see someone else using the same language! :hug8: I was there in Jan and caught up with Chris, Amy and Megan last week at Animal Kingdom :)
 

J*M*L

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The word "no" is a conditioned punisher, the birds know that when you say "no" it will be followed by being on the floor which is punishing. If I pet a stimulated bird, or I scritched in a way that hurt them or made them uncomfortable then there is my trigger and I would work to learn the birds body language and avoid doing those things that provoke a bite. I believe that for my birds, being on the floor is scary and they feel insecure and unsure, I would never purposely put them there.

I don't believe that you can look at an animal and know if it's "sorry". We don't even know if animals feel "sorry" although there is evidence that they experience emotions but they don't know to what extent. There is some very cool research being done on this, but I am not sure of all the species it's being done on. I think being "sorry" is a human construct.
I just can't figure out how I'm hurting her. I'll pet her in the exact same place for a few minutes and all of a sudden she'll freak out. Maybe I'm not hurting her and it's excitement?
As for my tiel, I understand that if I don't move her when she doesn't want to be moved, I won't get bitten. However, sometimes she needs to moved. How would you suggest I address that situation? Are punishments and consequences two different things in your opinion? I feel like I've been doing the right thing, but I am open to suggestions that may bring me better results and make my birds happier...
 

Sharpie

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Great discussion everyone! I love getting more info about it. I work with and rehab rescued GSDs, and I think that real training (ie- teaching the animal behaviors is a way that they WANT to do them) is similar across species in the basics. ABCs indeed. :)

I'd like to rephrase my earlier comment. I suppose I never really 'force' anything on Jasper, even though I sometimes make him do things that he'd rather not. It might mean going and getting a treat or a perch if he's reluctant or excited though. Then he'll step up, grudgingly, but he will. If he doesn't (and it only happened a few times when he first came home) I leave the room and let him sit by himself for a few minutes. So far, when I come back with that treat again, he's more than happy to cooperate for the treat and the attention after being temporarily 'abandoned.'

Not to go all nature's best on anyone, but after watching my budgieflock for so long, it seems like birdy 'punishment' is pretty much saying 'fine, I'm taking my ball and going elsewhere.' Jasper seems to understand it fairly well anyway. Granted, he's not having a blast chewing a hole in the ceiling either. ;) If he were doing something dangerous like that I'd probably progress to either toweling him (which he's comfortable with) or forcing him off-balance and onto a perch. I try to prevent those situations though, and if it were something like an electric cord, I'd be willing to take a bite to get him off it.

Now 'taking my ball and playing elsewhere' has resulted in him getting dumped off my lap and onto the floor a couple of times when he decided to pinch me too hard, resulting in me getting up and leaving him for a few minutes. I have trouble feeling bad about that though. Should I? Is there a better way? I warn him to 'be gentle' when he's getting too rough for me, and 9/10 times that's all it takes, but he's a Zon and gets a little carried away sometimes, which isn't really a problem since his 'carried away' is still gentle enough not to bruise/bleed.
 

JLcribber

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99% of the time I also just change the antecedent like Tanya. They can't chew the buttons off the remote if the remote is not there. If I don't want them to get down behind the couch to chew the wires I take away their ability to climb down there by blocking it off.

We talked about this before when a bird was flying over to another birds cage to intimidate them. By taking away that ability and setting up a barrier there is no need to change the behavior. Remove the source of the problem and the problem just goes away on it's own.

As far as why do they listen to me. It started out as me saying get down only once or twice and if they didn't I went right over there and got them on my arm or stick (depending which monster it was) and just changed their focus by a quick travel to another area and some short interaction before going back. Rinse and repeat if necessary. :)

They just know now that when I say get down that they are going to have to get down because the situation is going to change otherwise whether they like it or not. Tika is still defiant the odd time but Amanda just listens. To me it boils down to respect for what the leader wants. I still don't use any kind of "punishment".
 

BraveheartDogs

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i always think..ABCs of training ...if i dont want the behavior i change the consiquence or anticedent to get the behavior i want...it really makes life simple i dont try to figure what they are thinking or why they did it i just change things around to get the behavior i want...if any one is interested..Natural encounters with Steve Martin....i went to his ranch for couple wks of training it was with him and Susan Friedman it is a wonderful experience....Susan has a online class also :D
I missed Susan Friedman when she was here, but I did see Steve Martin. In fact, I posted about the Great Minds lecture in Texas that he (and a bunch of other AWESOME speakers) will be speaking at in another thread.
 

BraveheartDogs

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I just can't figure out how I'm hurting her. I'll pet her in the exact same place for a few minutes and all of a sudden she'll freak out. Maybe I'm not hurting her and it's excitement?
As for my tiel, I understand that if I don't move her when she doesn't want to be moved, I won't get bitten. However, sometimes she needs to moved. How would you suggest I address that situation? Are punishments and consequences two different things in your opinion? I feel like I've been doing the right thing, but I am open to suggestions that may bring me better results and make my birds happier...
I'm sure it could be that she just gets aroused or excited and then bites, I think you would have to look at the rest of her body language and see what happens before the bite.

Yes, consequences and punishment are different. There are different types of consequences: positive reinforcement (something good happens after a behavior, like the animal gets a treat after doing something), negative reinforcement (something bad ends when a behavior happens, like if a bird is afraid of a person and bird is attempting to bite, and the person moved away once the animal stopped biting, not recommended because it requires an aversive component that can be removed), positive punishment (something aversive happens following a behavior, like the animal is hit or sprayed with water) and negative punishment (something pleasant is removed, so if the bird wanted to be held but was put on a playstand or ignored). Many consequences CAN be more than quandrant. By definition reinforcement makes behavior go up in frequency and punishment makes behavior go down in frequency. These are the four quandrants of operant conditioning. The consequences in the ABC (Antecedent-Behavior-Consequence) sequence. Hope this makes sense:)

It sounds like it is under control and it's working for you:) I think that the birds have learned that when you say "no" if they don't stop or change the consequence will be that they will be put on the floor. That is what I meant by conditioned punisher, the word "no" is the conditioned punisher. I would probably see if I could detect and look for earlier signals before a bite so you can stop petting before she has to go to that.
 
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BraveheartDogs

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Great discussion everyone! I love getting more info about it. I work with and rehab rescued GSDs, and I think that real training (ie- teaching the animal behaviors is a way that they WANT to do them) is similar across species in the basics. ABCs indeed. :)

I'd like to rephrase my earlier comment. I suppose I never really 'force' anything on Jasper, even though I sometimes make him do things that he'd rather not. It might mean going and getting a treat or a perch if he's reluctant or excited though. Then he'll step up, grudgingly, but he will. If he doesn't (and it only happened a few times when he first came home) I leave the room and let him sit by himself for a few minutes. So far, when I come back with that treat again, he's more than happy to cooperate for the treat and the attention after being temporarily 'abandoned.'

Not to go all nature's best on anyone, but after watching my budgieflock for so long, it seems like birdy 'punishment' is pretty much saying 'fine, I'm taking my ball and going elsewhere.' Jasper seems to understand it fairly well anyway. Granted, he's not having a blast chewing a hole in the ceiling either. ;) If he were doing something dangerous like that I'd probably progress to either toweling him (which he's comfortable with) or forcing him off-balance and onto a perch. I try to prevent those situations though, and if it were something like an electric cord, I'd be willing to take a bite to get him off it.

Now 'taking my ball and playing elsewhere' has resulted in him getting dumped off my lap and onto the floor a couple of times when he decided to pinch me too hard, resulting in me getting up and leaving him for a few minutes. I have trouble feeling bad about that though. Should I? Is there a better way? I warn him to 'be gentle' when he's getting too rough for me, and 9/10 times that's all it takes, but he's a Zon and gets a little carried away sometimes, which isn't really a problem since his 'carried away' is still gentle enough not to bruise/bleed.
No, I totally get that about the force. It is different (in my mind) if the animal just would rather play on my computer keyboard and is arguing about getting off than an animal that is fearful, unsure or needs to be left alone. That was sort of my whole point in this thread, the art of how and when to make those decisions. I loved that someone (I think you actually) said that it depends on if the animal just doesn't want to or is nervous or fearful. It's just that in order to make that call, we have to be good at reading body language.

I have 7 budgies. Oliver, who is 6 years old, when he lived by himself would sometimes get very fired up and he would do this thing with his toy and he would kind of pin his eyes, well, I don't know if it was that, but they changed and became very hard. I simply didn't hold him when he was like that or I would be bitten. Fine, problem solved, don't hold him when he ramped up. I have a cockatiel who wants to climb on my keyboard. I don't want her to. I know, I should remove the antecedent, but I am typing!!! So, I make her get off. She argues but steps up. Force? Maybe, but she agrees and I really believe she is just frustrated and irritated with me.
 

BraveheartDogs

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99% of the time I also just change the antecedent like Tanya. They can't chew the buttons off the remote if the remote is not there. If I don't want them to get down behind the couch to chew the wires I take away their ability to climb down there by blocking it off.

We talked about this before when a bird was flying over to another birds cage to intimidate them. By taking away that ability and setting up a barrier there is no need to change the behavior. Remove the source of the problem and the problem just goes away on it's own.

As far as why do they listen to me. It started out as me saying get down only once or twice and if they didn't I went right over there and got them on my arm or stick (depending which monster it was) and just changed their focus by a quick travel to another area and some short interaction before going back. Rinse and repeat if necessary. :)

They just know now that when I say get down that they are going to have to get down because the situation is going to change otherwise whether they like it or not. Tika is still defiant the odd time but Amanda just listens. To me it boils down to respect for what the leader wants. I still don't use any kind of "punishment".
Yes, I learned so much from that discussion about flying over to the other birds cage. I try and look more for ways to change the antecedent, thank you for that:)

I like that plan, but in the case of chewing on the ceiling am I right in that there is no way to change the antecedent? So, you had to train an alternate behavior like "get down". Now, what if you went over there with your arm or the stick and they try to bite or refused? Did they ever do that? If they did, what did you do? Why?

By the way, i just really want to learn and hear everyone's way of making those choices right then and there. Just because I am all about continued education and being a better trainer.
 

ilikebirds

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This is an example of flooding. You have not empowered the bird with choice. I have bolded the above sentance to discuss further - there are many ways to gain trust, you may not have seen another solution but they exist and the building of the trust account is very important. It takes time. How about offering favoured treats over a period of weeks/months to gain trust. Even reducing the morning intake of food to get the belly rumbling to make the bird a bit more keen to take the treat, followed by a large dinner, can help this method along. Patience patience patience. My next question - Why did you feel that this bird, having come from a mistreated home, needed to ever step up or be close to a human - It's not essential for the birds well-being for the bird to do this, but you needed her to? For you? What are you determining the displaced aggression is against? Not knowing the full situation I hesitate to say this but with flooding the bird will do the behaviour often out of fear. Not trust. Not willingly. Is she flighted?

Please dont take offence at this, i'm merely using it as an example, and I'm not trying to have a go at you.
I take no offense, I appreciate different points of veiw I may not have considered yet.
I never asked Ruby to step up right away, I waited many months. At first she wanted nothing to do with anyone, and she became more and more curious. Yes, our very first step was treats. That was how we encouraged her to come out and explore, and to see us as a friend. She made first contact, climbing down off the cage and then climbing onto our lap to hang out. But if you reached for something, or moved your hands at all, not even towards her, she would bite whatever was nearest her. My feeling was if I kept trying, she would see my hands would not hurt her. I guess my best analagy would be like how you are afraid to get on the bike again because it dumped you off and you got hurt. You know the bike could hurt you again, but till you are sucessful it is scary. A stpid analagy, but all I could come up with.
If she doesnt want to step up, I dont make her. I did force it a few times, and it only took a few times. Maybe its not the best method, but thats why I am thankful for this message board, to learn the methods of others.
It still makes me so happy when she wants to step up, and come to play. She will seek us out to play. If she had not shown the curiosity to be closer, I never would have tried it. I have birds that dont appreciate hands on and I respect that. No, it is not essential for a bird to be bonded to humans. Ruby is flighted. Several times she has been spooked, and flown to me.
 

BraveheartDogs

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I take no offense, I appreciate different points of veiw I may not have considered yet.
I never asked Ruby to step up right away, I waited many months. At first she wanted nothing to do with anyone, and she became more and more curious. Yes, our very first step was treats. That was how we encouraged her to come out and explore, and to see us as a friend. She made first contact, climbing down off the cage and then climbing onto our lap to hang out. But if you reached for something, or moved your hands at all, not even towards her, she would bite whatever was nearest her. My feeling was if I kept trying, she would see my hands would not hurt her. I guess my best analagy would be like how you are afraid to get on the bike again because it dumped you off and you got hurt. You know the bike could hurt you again, but till you are sucessful it is scary. A stpid analagy, but all I could come up with.
If she doesnt want to step up, I dont make her. I did force it a few times, and it only took a few times. Maybe its not the best method, but thats why I am thankful for this message board, to learn the methods of others.
It still makes me so happy when she wants to step up, and come to play. She will seek us out to play. If she had not shown the curiosity to be closer, I never would have tried it. I have birds that dont appreciate hands on and I respect that. No, it is not essential for a bird to be bonded to humans. Ruby is flighted. Several times she has been spooked, and flown to me.
that's good, so it sounds like you developed a relationship with her and reinforcement history ("trust account") before moving on to the handling. I offer Argyle my hand just about every day now, I don't push it, I just place it there for a moment, he doesn't step up yet, but I think he will eventually. At least now he beaks it a little and shows some interest instead of running away. Also, I feed him from my hands:)
 
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