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Feeling lost with aggressive conure

Kayandkotori

Moving in
Joined
12/19/18
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8
Hello. I've posted before about my conure being a biter, but things seem to be getting worse, not better. There are times when he will step onto my hand and be fine, or he'll bend over and beg to be petted. But even in those calms moments, he'll occasionally latch onto me hard enough to draw blood, seemingly for no reason.

Additionally, he attempts to attack me. If I try to close his cage, he will dart out and bite me as hard as he can. If I try to reach into his cage to put a treat in, he tries to bite me. Sometimes for no reason he'll try to attack my hand, even if he was fine seconds before. He WANTS to hurt me. It's all incredibly aggressive and disheartening. Treats don't motivate him to learn or behave, and ignoring him after biting isn't a sufficient punishment.

I'm feeling lost. I'd never give up on him, and if he has to be a bird that's seen and not touched, he will be. But I want to have a relationship with him and I feel so defeated and depressed. Any ideas?
 

Sylvester

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Could he be hormonal, what age is he? He sounds like he is having problems with hands. How did the two of you start off, when you first got him? There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this site who own conures, I am sure they will help you.
 

Kayandkotori

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12/19/18
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8
He's just turned one. He's been aggressive from the start, but it got worse the longer I've had him. He definitely has a problem with hands, but they seem inconsistent. When I first let him out of the cage for example, he would bite me if I tried to touch him. I have to give him a few minutes, then he's happy to be pet or he'll step on my hand. But there's been times he's enjoyed being pet for several minutes and still just latches on for no reason. There's no signals or anything - he just goes for it.
 

Kodigirl210

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Conures by far are the fastest to throw off signals and I think that’s just because they are always in a hurry. Conversely you cannot be. If he doesn’t bite you when you initially let him out of the cage then let him out of the cage and give him a chance to relax before approaching for more.


If he bites you when you put a treat into his cage then why reach in. Most cages allow you to open the area where the food bowls are. If this is the case with your cage-drop the treat in the bowl and close it back into the cage. Or take a small length of spray millet & shove it through the bars.


Look for information on target training as this will help you develop a positive relationship and doesn’t require your bird to be out of the cage or you to be in it.


As for clues to a conures feelings. You must be attentive to the following:

Feather raising and flattening

Eye pinning

Wing flipping

Vocalizations

Head swiveling


When you are petting a conure, their feather will start to puff out. As soon as they give any indication of flattening – that means they are done. Period. No negotiation.


If you start petting and they don’t puff or if they puff prior to touching – STOP! They do not want to be touched.


If you are petting and they start wing flipping or wing shrugging they do no appreciate wherever you just touched. Assess if they wish to be continued to be petted or not.


If they are on your finger and start wing flipping or head swiveling-look for somewhere to put them down fast. They want off your finger/hand and will do anything to get there.


One of the things you can try is a flat palm. It is less threatening and it may be more acceptable. If your conure is vocalizing don’t offer anything. Vocalizing prior to being let out of cage usually means they are already frustrated and will bite you just to let you know that.


Whenever you work with your conure make sure to have something on hand so if you can’t set him down fast enough you can offer it as a diversion to bite.


And do vocalize when he bites. Say Ow or No and then set him down in either in the cage or on a perch.


Also having an outside perch stand will help. His choices shouldn’t have to be you or his cage. That kind of limitation can build frustration with the bird just because.


Last but not least always, always approach your bird with a positive attitude. They are very sensitive to emotion and if you fee upset and depressed you transfer that energy to your fid and he will act out to get rid of that negative energy.


Try some of these things and keep us updated. Good luck!!

 

Mizzely

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How big is his cage? Does he have areas around his cage that he can freely go to that isn't you?

Conures can definitely be cage protective which looks like aggression, but it's just the equivalent of "THIS IS MINE!!" So if you are mostly getting bit around the cage, that may be a big part of it. The more respect you can give him around his cage, the more he is likely to respect you outside of it.

As for closing the door, I did go through this with my quaker some too. The thing I did was cover the area by the latch with a piece of cardboard or a toy so that he physically couldn't reach me. Once he realized it was ineffective, he stopped the behavior.
 

Jas

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@Kodigirl210 has given you some excellent information!

peanut is the more beaky conure out the two and used to pretty much bite my hands for no reason, she'd fly over and latch on.

i suggest to wear a hoodie or something with long sleeves to cover your hands, it helped to avoid bites as she couldn't see my hands.

id also suggest a stick to use for moving your bird around again removing hands for the equation so no negative experience.

body language is important, peanut's cheek and neck feather puff up when shes thinking of biting and when she starts to make vocalisations like loud grumbles.

also try not to take it personal they aren't being mean, they're trying to communicate to you.
:)
 

Kayandkotori

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12/19/18
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8
Good advice everyone! I'll definitely pay attention to the feather puffing during pet time. As for the cage, it's a decent size - he has plenty of room to run around and toys and treats and such.

I've tried a stick and he just gets scared of it.

I'll also try to pay attention to the noises he makes more. He does chitter sometimes, but usually it's because he seems happy.

Again, thanks everyone. More tips are appreciated but I'm happy with what I've gotten so far.
 

Kodigirl210

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One other I’ve noticed about Isen. She’s not a fan of going back in her cage. It’s not to say she doesn’t like it because she does. She spends her time running from the perch across the top of her cage and then back. It Just means she hates being put away. Learn to appreciate that both of you need a break. Do not feel bad because you have to put him away. It is what it is. Once again those feelings will travel right down your arm into his little body. Instead learn to be okay with it. Neither sad nor satisfied. Just try to push comfort/companionship down your arm so he feels the connection and knows this is just part of the routine. That when it’s time he’ll see you him again. You aren’t going away. Once he’s in his cage sit close and just talk to him quietly, read or meditate so he can have that feeling of peace as well. The more quiet you are, the more peaceful you can teach him to be. The more peaceful the two of you are around each other, the more confident you will be. I know it sounds a little hokey but it’s taken me a long time to get there and reach that understanding. Consequently I can take my CAG and tuck her body under my chin without her flinching or fighting. I can take our GCC and wander around the house cleaning with Isen stuck to me like velcro and running up, down and all around my arms and chest. :)
 

Kayandkotori

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12/19/18
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I guess my last question would be: is this what I can expect from my bird forever? Am I going to just have to work around his behavior, or should he eventually bond with me enough that he isn't out for my blood?
 

alshgs

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I guess my last question would be: is this what I can expect from my bird forever? Am I going to just have to work around his behavior, or should he eventually bond with me enough that he isn't out for my blood?
Maybe, maybe not.
I had a rescue green cheek that was around 8-9 years old when I got her. Bit the living tar out of me a lot. and drew blood. She would bend low and flap her wings (indicating she wanted out) but then when I went to go and get her, she would lunge. I learned her body language pretty quickly. I had her close to 2.5 years before she passed. And it took her about a year to stop biting me. She was a lovebug up until she passed.

how many hours of sleep does he get a night? Is he covered? What type of food does he eat?

Have you thought about target training? That helped my girl a lot
 

Kodigirl210

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@Kayandkotori - Your bird doesn’t hate you or anything else. You are just in the process of learning each other’s body language. If your fid (in your description) didn’t like you, you wouldn’t be able to touch him at all. It actually sounds like you have had many positive interactions. The more you learn what your fid is trying to tell you, the less you will get bit. The more you work with each other and the more you trust each other the less you will get bit. He’s a youngster & is learning to communicate just as you are learning to read him. In a few months, you will hopefully look back at this as just a slightly painful learning curve. Give him time to adjust from his cage to being outside of it. Watch for signs that he’s irritated by touch not enjoying. Use target training to build trust. Talk nonsense or read to him during quiet times to teach him how to be quiet and relax. Like any other relationship you have this is a work in progress. I see nothing so drastic that you will not improve your bond with your fid. Time, patience and work = happy fid & bonded ;)
 

annoellyn

Walking the driveway
Joined
10/4/18
Messages
246
My gcc went through a biting phase before I finally realized he didn't like where I had moved his cage.
My gcc is still bitey but less so. I don't have any advice because everyone really gave great advice But just wanted to say I get how frustrating it can be when you feel like you're making no progress. I often felt like I was really awful at reading my birds body language. I hope the advice above helps you out!
 
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