Total newbie questions and my dream aquarium

[jlan79]

Hi all,

I have been wanting a saltwater aquarium for ages, but I don't think I can handle the upkeep and the expense of one. So, I have now settled on a freshwater and would love to replicate something like this

What do I need to know about plantless aquariums? Does it require more or less upkeep than a planted one? What size would be good for 5-6 African cichlids? Anything I need to know about that species? What other fish would do well in this type of a tank? I had a tank as a kid, but that's it. I will be doing a lot of research and trying to convince my husband to get one

On a side-note, how do they make that sand on the bottom of the tank have a ripple effect? The sand looks like it's an even layer on top of something else. Or is it an optical illusion?

 

[Vicky Chai Tea]

The tank size totally depends on what type of Africans you want. If you go with shell dwellers you'll only need a ten gallon, and if you want Frontosas you'd need at least an eighty gallon. Likewise, the way the tank looks reflects the fish you get. Shallow and long for shell dwellers, large and deep from Frontosas.

That type of set up is nice, personally I'd throw more hiding places in there. The sand is just shaped by hand I'm assuming, it's easy enough. If you want standard Malawi cichlids like yellow labs, you could do a 55-75gal. Personally I'd go with the 75, gives more room for fish and decor. Easier to maintain as well. Most people use Aragonite or crushed coral as a substrate, this raises the pH to the high levels Africans need. There are mixes specifically for Africans out there that work well. These fish are descended from saltwater fish and need their pH to be at or around 8.0 and their hardness to be hard or very hard, 18-30 dGH.

As far as tankmates, Synodontis do well with Africans. Synodontis multipunctatus (Cuckoo catfish) is endemic to Tanganykia so it does especially well. Most Plecostomas do well also, including Panaque nigrolineatus (Royal Plecos). I've also heard success with Rainbowfishes, as they like the high pH and get large enough/fast enough to avoid a lot of aggression. Personally I only like keeping fish from the same continent if not the same bodies of water together so I'd only ever combine them with Synodontis.

AC Tropical Fish & Aquarium Is an excellent web site and I'd go there for more info in your search. I'd also pick up the book Lake Tanganyikan Cichlids by Mark Phillip Smith. Gives a good section on cycling and setting up the aquarium as well as selected species from the lake.

If you don't know what cycling is I highly recommend some reading as it's vital to keeping your fish healthy and happy.
The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

Aquarium Cycling For Freshwater

Nitrogen Cycle

The Puffer Forum • The Puffer Library » III. Fishless Cycling

Fishless aquarium cycle - UltimateBettas

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/8207/cyclee.jpg

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac12/p0psicl3/wee.jpg

I hope this helps.

 

[Zeb]

I think I am following a pretty good post, but I want to lead you over to Cichlid-Forum.com

You can keep cichlids in a 10 gallon, as already mentioned, if it's Tanganyikan shells. You can also even do smaller Mbuna in a 30 gallon, if you do just one species....and specific species. Remember, not all Mbuna are really compatible. ( Contrary to popular belief )

There are many options, but it will be easy as long as you cycle the tank first. I always do 50% water changes once a week and just clean up the algae on the glass.

 

[theocnoob]

ABSOLUTELY check cichlid forum and stay there as the setup you are doing is in essence a cichlid tank. Basically, my opinion of what you want to do to achieve this look is visit a pool store and a rock yard. Get grey granite pieces like that. Get pool filter sand (nephelyne syenite looks most natural), rinse the heck out of it, add to tank, add rocks as you see visually desirable, done.

Maintenance of such an aquarium is stirring the sand to remove bubbles every few days, once a week you remove and replace 25-30 percent of the water, with new water of the same temperature. You use a dechlorinator to make the water fish safe before adding. ( no need to wait with current ones. My favorites are Prime and Aquasafe. Prime is super economical)

To start the tank out find a local aquarium club, get a large piece of cylced filter material, start with a small group of fish. After 60 days add the rest of your fish. That way you don't need to worry about the cycling process. If you buy from a breeder, they will provide you said large piece. Please read about nitrification, the nitrogen cycle, and biological filter media.

You want this, right?
Easily done. You've chosen an easy setup to maintain thumbs up. BTW I DO recommend a thinner layer of sand to prevent gas pocket buildup. 2" at most. I prefer 1 but 2 will be ok. If you want black sand that is available at petshops or via 3m (3M Color Quartz). If you want white you can get white silica sand at pet stores but fish do not like it. They like grey brown or black sand better.

How much room do you have? Can you get your hands on a 6 foot tank? 5? 4? This makes a big difference in species choices. Im subscribing to this thread.

This can be done in as little as 3 foot with nice looking fish. Bigger tank, bigger options, some nicer fish. Before I advise you on fish and parts and such I'd like to ask:
?Budget (TOTAL incl fish, food, everything)
?space (wXl)
?concrete or wood floor if going over 70Gallons?


Here are some instructional videos to get you started!! Welcome to fishkeeping!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2plOlXhLtU&feature=related
How do you prepare sand for the tank?
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/videos/cleaning_sand.php
How do you clean sand in the tank?

GREAT fish for a first tank:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruZzISApvPY
The Yellow Lab/Yellow Labido a great, relatively gently hardy fish. Good in a (minimum) 3 foot tank but bigger is good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlbSRo-MclE
"Firefish" Peacock. One male among your group of yellows would be stunning. Just ideas.

^Both fish can be fed a similar diet and get along.


Remember. You didn't have to go SW to get beautiful colors. That's a lie. African Cichlids have colors just like marine fish. (Example: but these are MEAN fish just nice color)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjtGMPHov2w&feature=fvwrel

-Former petshop employee and private aquarium servicer.

Have a great night.

 

[Mizzely]

Wow, great posts already! I agree that hiding spots are a great idea with cichlids, as they are territorial and the hiding spaces will be good for any that are getting picked on. A bigger tank will mean you can get more fish in there, which means aggressions are more spread out.

I also use Prime for my tanks, its super economical as a little goes a long ways. It stinks directly out of the bottle like sulphur, but its so diluted in the tank that this isn't an issue. I also add Seachem's Stability to my freshwater...it is debated if it really helps with keeping a nice bacteria colony or not, but I've noticed less instances of bacteria die offs and bloom with it for new tanks.

One thing I will say though, is that in my experience cichlids tend to disturb sand quite a bit. So a ripple like theocnoob posted is more realistic as a long time thing then the one that you did; if you ripple it with your hand or a tool everytime you do a water change you should be able to at least see it for a few days

As for plants - they are not essential. The plastic plants you see in stores are more for our pleasure and to give fish hiding places than anything else. Live plants help filter out nitrates (essentially fish waste) and produce O2 for them to breathe, so if you can substitute these three things:

Cover - Such as rocks/caves
Co2/O2 exchange - such as a bubbler or surface agitation from powerhead or filter
Fish waste removal - water changes

you absolutely do not need plants at all

 

[theocnoob]

^ A well written post. IMO, a small amount of stability added weekly is indeed a beneficial thing to do. I would use 1/2 capful per 55gal once it was really established and it is EXCELLENT at the suggested dose for 'new tank' when you start off (with borrowed filter media as I said before) to help boost the tank break in and speed up establishment of the nitrogen cycle.

When you buy that stuff as it is live bacteria be careful it has not been overheated and that the seal is intact under the cap.
And with ANYTHING for aquariums. Always shake (very) well
Join your local aquarium club or forum and ask for some dirty filter material. People will donate. Fish folk are friendly

Mizz sounds like a very experienced guy so together I am certain we can help achieve your goal

OH PS

www.dainichi.com
http://nlsfishfood.com/

These in my opinion are the 2 finest cichlid foods. I feed the 'cichlid formula' (NLS) and Veggie FX (dainichi) 50/50

Don't you worry about the fish refusing (any) food. Malawi cichlids LOVE food. Any food.