Target training and getting aggressive with rewards...

[KellyBean]

So, as was recommended I have started some target training. We have not gotten very far. My GCC has been rewarded for looking at the object, and moving toward it. The rewards are either very tiny diced up apple or very tiny broken up banana chips. He gets super excited over these treats. To the point that if you touch him he wants to attack you .(It reminds me of how a dog tends to get when enjoying a bone.)
So, I'm unsure if this is actually working or actually backfiring. It seems to be reinforcing the biting behavior that I'm trying to work with him to stop doing.
Maybe I need to switch to a different treat. (I was just trying to make the exercise motivating and rewarding.)
Any advice?

 

[Shezbug]

Maybe you could try a different food treat or perhaps not actually giving the treat until the task is done and he is calm? I know if I treat my dog for doing what I ask when he is excited he tends to snap at the food, he has learnt he will only be treated once he is cool and calm after doing what I asked of him. I am not sure if this will work but it is what I would try.

 

[Shinobi]

Are you using a clicker?
Maybe instead of a training treat you could use verbal praise.
reward wanted behaviour and ignore unwanted behaviour.

 

[Parakeet88]

My green cheek is EXACTLY the same way! I've had him almost a year now and haven't taught him anything. He is well behaved but not "formally trained". He gets so aggressive when I try to target train, he attacks the stick and sometimes bites my fingers when I offer the treat so I end up stopping the training to avoid reinforcing the biting. The only time he gets aggressive like that is when I try to train. I've been trying to get him in his flight suit and he actually does better with it if there are no treats around at all. I tried using the treats for positive reinforcement once and it made him go crazy. He will take treats from me normally (not aggressive) if there's no training involved. I don't have any advice but it's interesting that there's another GCC out there who gets aggressive with training.

 

[Shezbug]

I recently read some notes I had taken while doing a private consult and it was a big reminder for me, maybe it could be relevant for this situation. It may be something you have already taken into account but it is worth mentioning anyway.

Training and introductions are best done on and in neutral territory. Best not to have cage or other 'hang out' type things around as the less familiarity while training the more focused the bird is likely to be and also being in a room that they do not already view as their area can help with behavior. I was told that just making changes to the training session room choices is often all that is needed to make the difference with behaviors that hinder regular training.

Not sure if this is helpful but I hope so

 

[Shezbug]

How long are your sessions going for? Are they maybe too long for your bird? Always stop training on a high note even if the bird is still motivated. You never want him to finish the sessions, you always must be the one to call an end to them before any loss of interest.

 

[Lodah]

I recently read some notes I had taken while doing a private consult and it was a big reminder for me, maybe it could be relevant for this situation. It may be something you have already taken into account but it is worth mentioning anyway.

Training and introductions are best done on and in neutral territory. Best not to have cage or other 'hang out' type things around as the less familiarity while training the more focused the bird is likely to be and also being in a room that they do not already view as their area can help with behavior. I was told that just making changes to the training session room choices is often all that is needed to make the difference with behaviors that hinder regular training.

Not sure if this is helpful but I hope so

Just some advice... if a fid is motivated by food it seems uncanny that they would be aggressive when receiving said treat! Removing them into a different room is good advice as well as planning out how you are going to achieve your goals and then break them down into achievable tasks for your fid!

Training should only be in short spurts and not long duration as well as your fid always being rewarded for even small attempts or improvements! Training is a rewarding way to bond with your fid and as long as you have lots of patience... it should be fun for both of you! Just remember very small steps for each goal!

 

[Ankou]

My lovebird is territorial over her food, resource guarding.

To get around this, when I would give her a food reward I would:
- Place it near her, but not so near she could reach to bite me. Handing it to her was a big no-no since I wasn't allowed to touch her food.
- give her a very small amount (just one or two lovebird sized bites.) Once it was eaten, no food to guard!
- Keep what I had on me somewhere not overly obvious to start with, not even in her sight.
- If she got overstimulated and started guarding, just back off until she's calmed down. Once she feels like she needs to guard, standing there and continuing to bother her only reinforced in her mind that she needed to protect her food.
And now she's mostly blind so I just have to hand feed her treats and pray.
(But she's very tame and has really progressed a lot, I think she understands it's making her life easier and has been extra tolerant.)

But that's Peanut the lovebird, one of the cheekie posts might be more helpful!
A less "valuable" treat might be a good idea, I agree. Peanut was definitely worse with high-value rewards vs. stuff she just kinda enjoyed.
Maybe there is a sweet spot where he's still engaged and not enraged?

 

[suileeka]

How would you suggest getting an aggressive bird into a separate room to do the training?

 

[Shinobi]

A T-stick

 

[Monica]

Or if you have an aggressive bird... start *IN* the cage! That way, if you do get bit, it's your fault! Learn to target train through the cage bars and offer the treats in such a way that you can't get bit.

When away from the cage - either work "through" it, or deliver the rewards in a different manner.



I personally don't recommend training cage aggressive birds away from the cage, because that doesn't solve the cage aggression issues... so IMO, it's better to start at the cage with the door closed.

 

[suileeka]

A T-stick

What about when the aggressive bird will fly or jump off the t stick to attack..?

 

[Odin]

What about when the aggressive bird will fly or jump off the t stick to attack..?

I have wondered that as well, I never did get Boo onto the stick... but thought about the fact that he can very easily get me if he had wanted to.

 

[Shinobi]

What about when the aggressive bird will fly or jump off the t stick to attack..?

Target train the bird in the cage.