Is there a way to train a mean bird?

[Nowthats3]

I am not giving up on my turquiose. He (unsexed) has always been very very mean. I wanted a turquiose really bad, so I was not thinking straight. Since I got a new baby conure, I am trying to train him. After getting a dog, I understand a little bit more on training and try not to be afraid of him. I have been trying negative reinforcement, removing and going back in the cage if he tries to chomp. Treats are difficult as he aims for fingers on PURPOSE! The finger chomp is not a vision issue as I have tried long treats and tweezers and he reaches around them. I have tried a bite glove and he will chomp even harder. I always thought thats the way he will be mean. Is there any hope?

 

[Lady Jane]

Have you tried to train with a T stick perch?

 

[Nowthats3]

Have you tried to train with a T stick perch?

I have not, I am willing to try though.

 

[Lady Jane]

Also look up target training a parrot. There are videos on youtube.

Pictures - The T stick.

Uh... did anyone else notice the very badly damaged tire in the background? of Tika's pic? :backout:

forums.avianavenue.com

@JLcribber

 

[Pixiebeak]

I don't like to label them mean , because then our brain thinks that , and makes for negative energy.

How long have you had ?

If they don't take treats nice , I start with a treat dish , or setting treat down for them to pick up . So if it's a set treat down , at first after I set it down I move my hand away , I say good bird when treat is picked up . After all get the hang of this . Then when I set the treat down on a flat surface, I move my hand however far enough away they are non reactive to to it, and eave my hand in the treat position thumb and pointer touching flat surface and not moving. After that goes well fir several times , I move my hand less far away. I always pair good birdie when they pick up treat . Until eventually I leave my hand right next to treat , and then I start trying to hand treats again when all of this is non reactive.

Shaping, doing things in little segments until you get to the desired result or behavior is very successful way . It's how zoo keepers train wild Creatures. It's fluid to you and you adjust to the individual and how it's going..have several positives before you adjust to the next step , often several times over several days before you move to next step ..

It would be the same with a treat dish. At first you would say hi " name" drop treat in dish back up . Good birdies when they come and take it. Then you would move to hi name come here , show treat and they at least have to look or move a step towards dish before you drop it and back up. Working up to they have to come all the way to the dish before you drop it and you stay there. Then working to being able to hand it to them .

Bites , read body language, try not to put them in the position they have to bite before you listen. If bite happens, no bite, if pressure but not true bite say be careful. If bite happens , no bite, then I just just shift them , to chair arm , to my leg . I don't hold grudge, I don't make it dramatic, it's the same thing every time. If 2 bites happen in shirt order then back to cage for five minutes, keep it short then let them back out right away again.

 

[Tommy95]

I think putting them back in cage can be a positive reinforcement on biting if that is what the conure wants. This method only works if the conure wants to play or be with you.

If it is biting out of fear, perhaps going slow with lots of treats will be a better method (but be careful not to reward the biting).

 

[Nowthats3]

I think putting them back in cage can be a positive reinforcement on biting if that is what the conure wants. This method only works if the conure wants to play or be with you.

If it is biting out of fear, perhaps going slow with lots of treats will be a better method (but be careful not to reward the biting).

He wants attention and gets jealous of other birds. He is definitely not fearful as when someone approaches the cage, he wants attention.

 

[Nowthats3]

I don't like to label them mean , because then our brain thinks that , and makes for negative energy.

How long have you had ?

If they don't take treats nice , I start with a treat dish , or setting treat down for them to pick up . So if it's a set treat down , at first after I set it down I move my hand away , I say good bird when treat is picked up . After all get the hang of this . Then when I set the treat down on a flat surface, I move my hand however far enough away they are non reactive to to it, and eave my hand in the treat position thumb and pointer touching flat surface and not moving. After that goes well fir several times , I move my hand less far away. I always pair good birdie when they pick up treat . Until eventually I leave my hand right next to treat , and then I start trying to hand treats again when all of this is non reactive.

Shaping, doing things in little segments until you get to the desired result or behavior is very successful way . It's how zoo keepers train wild Creatures. It's fluid to you and you adjust to the individual and how it's going..have several positives before you adjust to the next step , often several times over several days before you move to next step ..

It would be the same with a treat dish. At first you would say hi " name" drop treat in dish back up . Good birdies when they come and take it. Then you would move to hi name come here , show treat and they at least have to look or move a step towards dish before you drop it and back up. Working up to they have to come all the way to the dish before you drop it and you stay there. Then working to being able to hand it to them .

Bites , read body language, try not to put them in the position they have to bite before you listen. If bite happens, no bite, if pressure but not true bite say be careful. If bite happens , no bite, then I just just shift them , to chair arm , to my leg . I don't hold grudge, I don't make it dramatic, it's the same thing every time. If 2 bites happen in shirt order then back to cage for five minutes, keep it short then let them back out right away again.

I have had him for 5 years. I try my best not to be negative, but its hard.

 

[Pixiebeak]

I do understand , bites hurt plenty, and it's frustrating.

Behavior stuff doesn't usually have quick fix . It takes time , and I try and be so excited by every little postive step.

Birds are very different in their social structure, then dogs. Dogs do have a dominance hierarchy. Parrots are more complex , they don't have a leader bird , they are individuals.

I think you need to work on building more trust , or gaining back trust . I have had to in the past and I am currently doing this with my Phoebe..

Also think..GCC don't seem to like repetitive training ,where you work on the same thing over and over.. short session with about 3 reps is what I do then a break of 15 min. I really try to be permission based, to think that way , I am asking will you do this in my brain , not thinking I'm going to make you ..

And for me training is just to make life with me easier for us , safer for us , and also a little to just engage their mind .

 

[Nowthats3]

I do understand , bites hurt plenty, and it's frustrating.

Behavior stuff doesn't usually have quick fix . It takes time , and I try and be so excited by every little postive step.

Birds are very different in their social structure, then dogs. Dogs do have a dominance hierarchy. Parrots are more complex , they don't have a leader bird , they are individuals.

I think you need to work on building more trust , or gaining back trust . I have had to in the past and I am currently doing this with my Phoebe..

Also think..GCC don't seem to like repetitive training ,where you work on the same thing over and over.. short session with about 3 reps is what I do then a break of 15 min. I really try to be permission based, to think that way , I am asking will you do this in my brain , not thinking I'm going to make you ..

And for me training is just to make life with me easier for us , safer for us , and also a little to just engage their mind .

I am willing to put in the time. I want harmony among my flock and hope to be able to bond to my bird. I habe had him almost 5 years.

 

[Pixiebeak]

I think you will! I really think mindset and energy are important. Holding thst vision of success in your mind .

I'm having to do work on my relationship with my quaker Phoebe, I wish I could just be like girl chill, lol, we have had years of love and trust , why ?? But it is what it is , I'm working to gain back that trust , her trust in me , my trust in her .

I have the benefit of knowing I have over come screw ups before, ones I caused , and ones that came in with . So I really believe we will get there.
It's a little frustrating, I put so much work into Phoebe when she came with her fear and hand phobia years ago, and now having to start all over ...ugh . giving myself pep talks ! But at near 30 days now of just focus on trust and postive association ( no training) we have made progress, no longer screaming and lunging and big ouch bites. Taking treats nice again. Letting and enjoying head scratchs again. We will get back to stepping up some day

 

[Tommy95]

Hmmm sounds like a difficult situation that requires a lot of patience. For one, it seems to me that he may not be that interested in the treats, but rather prefer to go for your finger.

One possibility is that he has been reinforced to bite your finger, because every time he bites you drop the treat (my assumption) and he gets it.

Another possibility is that he isn’t treat motivated enough. Maybe the treat is not his favourite, or is not as high of a value to him.

For the first possibility, you will have to re-teach him that biting doesn’t give treats, only when he doesn’t bite then there will be treats given. For the second possibility, find a favourite treat, or modify his diet a little to make treats solely for training.

 

[Nowthats3]

Hmmm sounds like a difficult situation that requires a lot of patience. For one, it seems to me that he may not be that interested in the treats, but rather prefer to go for your finger.

One possibility is that he has been reinforced to bite your finger, because every time he bites you drop the treat (my assumption) and he gets it.

Another possibility is that he isn’t treat motivated enough. Maybe the treat is not his favourite, or is not as high of a value to him.

For the first possibility, you will have to re-teach him that biting doesn’t give treats, only when he doesn’t bite then there will be treats given. For the second possibility, find a favourite treat, or modify his diet a little to make treats solely for training.

I think he is not treat motivated at all, he sees a finger near him and tries to bite. He is not fearful as he will approach the perspn when he is inside the cage and will bite if they try to touch him.