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How Do I Discourage Biting?

vanyasmom

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I have been doing my best to use positive reinforcement, and doing everything that Barbara Heidenreich said to do, in desensitizing. But tonight, when Vanya got on my hand, while we were desensitizing him to the new target stick with the green ball and clicker all in one, he hopped on my hand and while there, he decided to bite my finger. Twice. Once pretty softly, and the next time, a bit harder.

I understand that he is exploring and checking things out with his beak/mouth. Also, he is a baby. He is just now starting to chew on the thick paper from one of his toys and his bird kabob. As well as biting other things in his cage.

I really was caught of guard by this. I would like to prevent this and not have it become normal. It was during our "right before bed interaction" mostly so he can have a bit of millet and we can start to build trust.

I really don't know what to do though. He had hopped on my hand to get the millet and get a better look at the new stick. The millet was very close to the green ball. It didn't "seem" like an aggressive move. I could be wrong.

I bought several of her videos - so that I can study them. I was careful to bring the stick and anything else new from below, allow him to approach the item. Any advice on this would be appreciated.

I am hoping to get him out of the cage for exercise as soon as this coming week. I am in process of getting him a play stand and other "bird furniture" so he has a place "for him" to be - and to locate them so he can be up high. I want to make him a perch or two - one from pvc and one from the mulberry tree and the orange tree. I think more exercise would be good. And being out (of his cage), I think will help us to build our relationship.
 

vanyasmom

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Today, when we again worked with getting comfortable with that new stick with the green ball, he did not bite my hand when he hopped on -- he hopped on my hand on the third cluster. So perhaps it was an isolated incident? I hope so.
 

JLcribber

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If you think he's never going to bite, you're having a fantasy my dear. Birds only have one way to communicate their displeasure and that's with the beak. You will still get bitten once in a while 20 years from now.

Its how you handle them. They can't bite if you don't provide the opportunity/target. And you're still in the beginning.
 

Fia Baby

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He may have just been nibbling on you to explore. He'll always explore things with his beak, and he'll preen you with it too. And at times he may give you a piece of his mind - for instance if he was feeling that your finger was too close to the millet, or was feeling a bit stressed by the toy being too close to the millet. Look at it as a milestone in your relationship - he now feels comfortable enough to nibble your finger - that takes some courage. Just don't react in a way that could scare him - if it's too much for you, just gently move your finger out of the way. Boy budgies tend to be pretty gentle biters, unless they're really feeling threatened.
 

LilSprout

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Charlie and Sawyer bite me constantly, not hard enough to do anything like bleeding but they like to test stuff. The best thing to do is give no reaction at all, if you flinch they'll do it more for fun. Otherwise all you can do is get used to it
 

Lady Jane

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May I suggest you just let him play for a week or two. As you say he is a baby and that is what they do.
 

Shinobi

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BITING IS NOT A NATURAL CONFLICTS RESOLUTIONS OR COMMUNICATIONS IN BIRDS. Instead they are handled with body language and vocalizations. They convey their feelings beforehand or will fly off to avoid physical contact. If needed, the beak is protection against predators such as snakes and raptors or if it feels cornered and frighten then the need to bite will be from the natural instinct of self -preservation. But not against others in their own flock. In their natural environments, competition and/ or conflict between parrots rarely escalates to physical violence. Instead, they vocalize (scream) and/or use body language by strutting, posturing, and fluffing feathers to make themselves look bigger. Beaks are used for climbing, eating, playing (wrestling) and preening... not for biting another flock member.

I was told many years ago not to use the earthquake method. (Shake your hand when the bird goes to bite). When your bird is on your hand don't shake your hands to unbalance the bird has this will cause trust issues between your hand and the bird. This person told me the idea is to make your hands a safe and trusted place for your birds and if you shake your hand to unbalance the bird then the bird will come to see your hand as unsafe and will learn to distrust your hands. If your bird views your hand has unsafe and distrusts your hand, it will more likely bite the hand, then fly away. The use of gloves can also cause problems further down the line. It would probably be better to find out what is triggering the bite and there are many different types of triggers. Watch the eyes. If they pin, pull your hand away.

Just keep in mind that patience is key. Never mistreatment a bird who bites. Birds remember mistreatment, and they hold grudges. Any interaction you have with your bird should be bonding and trust-building. Parrots and other animals learn best when wanted behaviour is rewarded right as it occurs and BAD behaviour is not. (It’s that simple).

I tolerate the bite, which can be really hard at times. Under NO circumstances should you yell while been bitten. Instead say No biting or naughty bird in a firm, displeased voice and give the bird a very dirty look. Show the bird your displeasure by giving it a REALLY DIRTY LOOK ("The Evil Eye"). Serious -- you have to look at it as if it were the lowest of the low, or pond scum, or something you might find stuck to the bottom of your shoe. Parrots are extremely empathetic creatures who watch our facial expressions closely. He will understand your displeasure if you give him a tremendously dirty look. The bird will understand that you are unhappy and will try very hard not to do it again. I don’t put my birds back in the cage has I feel this makes for resentment. Instead I put the bird back on its stand and scold it.

For the record, in the two and half years that we had Marlin, our Alexandrine Parakeet I was bitten hard once. I put him on the stand and scolded him and after that he never bit anyone else. This happened when he was around 7 months old. Henry our male Eclectus did the same and I also put him on the bird stand and scolded him and he hasn’t bitten my wife or me since. But he still gives strangers a nip if they FORCE themselves onto him. I tell people to give him a sunflower seed and let him come to you.

But if you make a show out of being bitten, then the bird can find it quite entertaining and can be encourage to bite. This is called learnt bad behaviour.
So the parrot will nip again, because the human inadvertently rewarded it for nipping, by yelling. Sooner or later, the experimental nips will actually cause damage to the human (emotionally as well as physically), and the human's response becomes yelling, something to the effect of "YOU BAD BIRD, YOUR MOMMY (or DADDY) LOVES YOU, HOW COULD YOU BITE YOUR MOMMY (or DADDY)??!??!! The bird doesn't understand what's happening here, of course..... It thinks this is a wonderful new game. You know, bite a finger and your person makes lots of LOUD and WONDERFUL noises.... Bite hard enough and your person will also jump around... Bonus points…… This becomes learnt bad behaviour and they will actively hunt out skin to play this wonderful game of entertainment.

Do not leave the room. The bird may have bitten you to go away. So you leaving the room is what the bird wants. Therefore, you are teaching the bird that by biting, you will leave. This is learnt bad behaviour

You can use a Toy/treat as a distraction, But it's just that 'a distraction'. It's not really teaching the bird acceptable behaviours. What you're really teaching the bird, is that by biting, it gets a toy/treat. Again learnt bad behaviour.

Contrary to human beliefs, parrots think yelling is a fantastic and fun response and it will actually reinforce a behaviour. Parrots really enjoy it when humans yell at them. Parrots often scream simply for the fun of it so it is a fallacy to think they perceive that yelling is a reprimand. On the contrary, they generally interpret yelling as positive feed-back. This is what called The Drama Reward.

Birds use their beaks like a third hand and they will use this "third hand to help them onto your hand when you are start the training of step up. This is because the bird is unsure how stable your hand is so they test your hands stability with their third hand before stepping up.

This scenario happens when an inexperienced owner is not clear in their signals to the parrot. For example, when offering a hand for the bird to step up, an inexperienced owner often isn't quite sure of him/herself... so their hand motion is uncertain. The bird may wish very much to climb on, but is unsure of the stability of the hand will reaches with its beak (The beak functions as a third hand) to steady the human hand. The human, afraid of that beak, pulls their hand away. Now the bird is confused!

Now each time the human's hand is offered and the bird attempts to grab the hand with its beak to hold it steady so it can climb on. The human jerks their hand away. The bird has no idea what has happened but if the scene is repeated (as it usually is), the bird will learn that it's beak will make the hand go away. The bird doesn't really want the hand to go away, but it is fun to control one's human's hand so the behaviour will happen again and a-gain. Once again, the parrot has no idea it has done anything wrong.

If you can't handle the bird with bare hands at this time, use a T perch to move the bird around.

 

vanyasmom

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Thank you Shinobi for that wonderful explanation. It is much appreciated. I have seen him steady things with his beak. More and more so lately. He is becoming much more skilled at maneuvering around his cage and in climbing and hopping. And developing his wings.

Lady Jane - that is exactly what I did - I backed up. I felt that perhaps I was inadvertently being too pushy. So, I stopped trying to get him to get on my hand. He does get on my hand. Mostly because he knows if he sits on it he can eat the millet cluster. Otherwise I give him a bite and then move it away. By being pushy, I mean trying to rush the relationship. I thought, I can just get to know him a bit more slowly. He doesn't "have" to get on my hand for us to get to know each other. I can give him yummy things to eat, guide him with the target stick, and read up a lot on how to not inadvertently reinforce something.

He has not attempted it since. Last night, when he hopped on my hand. He did explore it a bit with his beak.

He has also learned that if he puts his foot on my hand, I will not move it away. I want him to see my hand as solid. So, I wait until he is ready to remove his foot.
 

Fia Baby

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That's great!! In my experience a male budgie is never going to hurt you unless you're really pushing him to defend himself. They're mellow and gentle. Females can be a bit more persnickety, but just a bit. I had a female when I was a teenager who was really one of my favorite birds. She was extremely tame and would come to me from anywhere in the house - she was with me constantly. The only time she ever bit me was if I "growled" at her like a dog. She let me know she didn't appreciate that sound one bit!!
 

karen256

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He's a baby and just exploring and tasting things. Male budgies are usually very gentle birds and not likely to be problem biters anyway. They may bite when scared but that's about it.
My Sammy was the most 'aggressive' male budgie I had - if he was annoyed he would scold me and if he was angry enough he might pretend to ferociously bite my finger - he would look like he was all angry and biting but in reality was as gentle as could be and I couldn't even call it a nibble.
Females are another story, they can be bitey - and have a stronger bite, too.
 

Begone

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Females are another story, they can be bitey - and have a stronger bite, too.
In fact that is how I sex them when they are really young. Females always bite harder and longer.
When I said that on this forum for some month ago I got a feeling that no one believed me.
 

Lady Jane

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Then there are my two budgies. Murphy will bite me if he is annoyed. Mickey the female never even attempted a bite.
 

karen256

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In fact that is how I sex them when they are really young. Females always bite harder and longer.
When I said that on this forum for some month ago I got a feeling that no one believed me.
I've read things similar to that in various older budgie books that - breeders sex them by sticking their hand in the nestbox and seeing who bites.

Sammy (male) had trouble even biting through the skin of a green pea. He could, but it would take him a moment.
 
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vanyasmom

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It is interesting that males do not bite as strongly as females. When I was first thinking about a Kozy Keet for Vanya - a soft something for him to chew. I think most of the owners of those who commented had females. They talked about how quickly the female would chew thru it - as she is the one that makes the nest. I did get him one - a similar one - his is intended to be a thing with 3 tunnels and hangs vertically.

He has BARELY made a dent on it. You can see where he has chewed in a few places. But, he is not exactly burrowing through it.

He is still working on chewing through an index card that was folded up in a foraging toy that I bought for him. I wove it through the bars of his cage.
 
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