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Training Concepts

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brad35309

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brad Lambert
With my visit to the avian vet today a dvd was reccomended to me for fundamentals of parrot behavior and training (Amptly entitled "Parrot Behavior and Training: An introduction to Training" by Barbara Heidenreich. While alot of what she talked about (Positive reinforcement, Negative reinforcement, rewarding ) i read about here, there were some steps or vague areas covered. She talks about teaching your bird to target an object, which she reccomended the hand. this is basically where you put the treats in your hand, let your bird know that there in your hand, and when a gental pass is made to retrieve the food from the hand, that it will slowly be assoicated with good coming from gentally going to the hand. now i have no probelm giving merlin a piece of food through the bars of his cage, and mabye even handing him a piece of food while on the perch ontop of his cage, but i am not bold enough to put some food in the center of my hand and allow him to retrieve it. Now im not afriad that he will bite me( i might be scared on the inside, but its bound to happen one time or another) but im more worried by the fact that i am sure that merlin is afraid of human hands in general. yesterday when i had him out of his cage (i made a t-perch), i got him to step up but the moment i start moving with the perch in my hand he hesitates and swoops back to his cage's perch. i put my finger out for him to step up on it and it seems like he was terrified of my hand. I moved my finger close to his feet when he just takes off flying. he didnt so any signs of aggression, it seems more like fear to me. Another topic i found enlightening is creating a bridge between you and the bird, and more importantly, brigding at the right time. Examples of briding provided where simple use of the word good,(or any other word that you choose to be the bridge) or using a clicker. the idea on this was when a bird recated to an exercise or activity in the right way, the bridge was said(clicked) and the target was presented to the bird(in the case of the dvd, the target was a balled fist with treats inside that were rolled up to the finger when the bird did a good job, it was allowed to retrieve a treat from the target) Also mentioned, is giving a jackpot, or a bigger treat or allowed more of it when a desired outsome happens while training for something else, or if the bird catches on quickly and does it exactly as desired. All this information i gained through the dvd seemed to help but, it still leaves me asking certain questions:

How can i associate my hand as a good thing? Make him less afraid of it.

How do i get him to come out of his cage!? When i open the doors to his cage, it seems that if im in the room, he will not come out. but if i leave the room for awhile, SOMETIMES he will come out and go sit on the top of his cage. Another exception to this is , if his cage door is open, and the dog comes into the room, if he recieves any human attention merlin immediately tries to leave his cage and assumes a dive bomb position to attack the dog. Ive never let this happen, as soon as i notice this behavior i remove the dog from the room, and merlin seems to loose most of his aggression and retreats back into his cage. I assumed i was the bird's favorite human because im preaty much the only one who's not afraid to put my hand in his cage without the fear of being bitten. He will occasionally still lash at me once in a while, but for the most part he just stares at my hand when removing the water/food dishes.

They Said 20 minutes a day for a training session is ample time. I have no problem doing this but i goto school and work all the time so, my schedule is very awkward. there is no set time of the day when i can work with him at that time everyday. i could if it was at night, but i don't want to disturb his sleeping habits so i can work on his behaviors.


It thought me some basic techniques for working with him. the one they recommend for non hand friendly birds was the turn around. this involved having the bird on the perch where your hand could go underneath, making a circular rotation with the target(hand with treat in it) and coaxing the bird to follow the circle motion of the hand on his perch(circling around) on completion of a circle, the target was offered(food from hand) and the process was repeated 9+ times, each time making less of a circle and more of a gesture to do it, which the bird on the video did. I'd love to try this with Merlin, but im afraid(not sure since Ive never attempted it) that the motion of me moving my hand underneath him with either lead to him attacking my arm, or being spooked and taking flight.


They didn't mention anything about the environment in which the training should be taken place. I planned on doing it right in the living room where his cage is placed. i plant on putting up a sheet in the doorway to the living room so if he takes flight hes not tempted to fly out of the room. And it really scares me when he is in flight when he slams into the wall or window trying to flee. I REALLY don't want him to hurt himself, and there isn't much room in our house to make an avian dedicated room. we probably could in our basement, but the temperatures are way to unstable for him to be housed down there. (theirs a min temp diff of at least 10degrees lower) i could probably isolate a section of the basement for training purposes, but how do i go about transporting him down there without handing him?(he wont stay on a perch that long while im moving)i could take his whole cage down there, but that's very inconvenient for me and i assume for him as-well.
 

Mythreeiggys

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Bumping...hoping someone can give him some input on training. Sounds like clicker training would work.

I know very little about clicker training but what I have read, you can start with him in the cage. Use a target (like a small stick or skewer). Ask him to "touch". When he touches with his beak, click immediately and give him a treat. There are some videos on YouTube about target/clicker training but there's a lot of resourceful people here that can help when you have questions. Good luck!
 

JLcribber

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Clicker training can be tricky. If not done correctly it can backfire or not work at all. If that is what you want to do you should join the Yahoo clicker group and learn it the right way so you will be successful. "Timing" is super important.

----> Yahoo Groups. Bird-click. (Clicker Training)
 

brad35309

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Thanks for the input! I don't plan on using an actual clicker for the training, i plan on using a vocal pop(clicking my tounge off the roof of my mouth) sound with my mouth that he probally has never herd as the "clicker" persay. I wll def. look into joining that group to see their advice and ill read the clicker training posts on this site.

I also have two new questions:

How do i coax him to go back into his cage? Somedays when he is out he wont go in and if were on a time schedule we kinda can't leave him unattended outside of his cage. i hate having to corner him and catch him with one of my old button up t-shirts(i'm afraid ill accidently hurt him if i use a large towel). this usually causes him to go to his favorite perch and just stare at us. its an uneasy feeling and i know it stresses the poor guy/girl out.

Second, I saw how the vet tech and the avian specialist where holding my buddy when they were going over him, and they showed me a that holding him around his neck with the towel is the best method for holding him, and that i should never apply pressure around his body because it needs to expand and contract in order for him to breath. I guess my question is whats the safest way of getting to this position, and/or is there a way to make him more comfortable being held in a towel or get him used to it so when he see's a towel he isn't deftly afraid of it.
 

Mythreeiggys

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To coax him back, show him a treat and then throw it in his food bowl or put it on one of his perches inside the cage.

When I towel, which is usually only for safety purposes or grooming, I throw the towel over their back and pick them up.
 

rocabird

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I haven't seen Barbara's video so can't comment on what is explained in it. Some of what you describe is very different from what I've learned about clicker training over the last 15 years, such as using the bridge before the target is presented. I wondering if she is doing what is none as charging the clicker at that time. Her videos are on my someday list.

The nice thing about clicker training is if you mess up, you can go back to the beginning and start over without the same issues you would have using force-type training. Timing is important, but I've found you don't have to worry as much with what I think of as broad behaviors such as targeting. It's when you are trying to get the small precise behaviors like putting a ball into a cup that bad timing can slow you do. And timing comes with practice. Even doing it for so long, my timing can still stink. My crew learns despite it.


The time training and rewarding him with a treat from your hand will help him get used to your hands. You could start by using a target stick rather than a fist and since it sounds like he's comfortable in his cage, you can do it through the cage bars. (Check out the clicker-training posts at the top of this section) I train Eco on his cage or on his T-stand right next to it.


20 minutes is a long time to train at one time. My attention span isn't that long and I know when I started to train Eco, 5 minutes was too long. This actually worked out good because I could practice for just a few minutes here and there rather than trying to set aside one block of time. Plus if things weren't going well in our training session I found I was more likely to take a break and plan to work on it in the next session. With a long session, I tend to want to keep going even when things aren't going right, causing more issues to undo. I can see a bird that is fully engaged with the training and understands clicker handling a long session.


The BirdClick list is really good. Check out the information in the files section. It's really helpful in getting you started.
 

Sadieladie1994

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Clicker training can be tricky. If not done correctly it can backfire or not work at all. If that is what you want to do you should join the Yahoo clicker group and learn it the right way so you will be successful. "Timing" is super important.

----> Yahoo Groups. Bird-click. (Clicker Training)

This is a great group with long time trainers. YOu can download the book for free from their site. They have videos as well that will help you "see" how to do something and the area you are asking about does have a video. Once you learn about how to choose a reward and target go and ask questions on their site to help you through where you are stuck. You can do reading during nite when your bird is sleeping. It takes a little bit of time but is worth it.

Barbara's training video simplifies some concepts and she uses the method she has used in class teaching many many people. Some just learn better seeing someone else doing this. Learn the concept then it is on to being a little creative but so worth learning.

Bottom line is to teach in a positive manner and allow your bird a choice.

Peggy
 
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