So many rules!!

[GingerDee]

I've had Ben and Kate for a month and a half.

I was making real progress with my pass-out boy Ben. He finally just stepped up instead of me chasing him (carefully to not make him pass out) in his cage...to get him out of it and on their play area.

But I guess I pushed him into breeding by having a darker room? I don't know...I thought you made the days longer when you wanted them to breed...I'm so confused...but he's an bum now.

He used to be shy just sitting in the back corner. Now he's all puffed up threatening me with a fight.‍ He does not want Kate to be my friend. When I try to talk to her Ben will come between us and push her away! It's ridiculous and sad.

So I don't know..do I visit them more or less? I feel bad he gets so upset with me..but she wants attention...and she looks at him likes he's being crazy.‍

I need a good place to find all the info on breeding or gcc...or someone to help because I keep accidently screwing things up.‍ Feb was breeding month..not end of March.

I want my shy little Ben back. And never want him ready to breed again..

 

[expressmailtome]

To be honest, a month or two is not very long to be working with a parrot, especially a former breeder. Part of the problem is that you were chasing him around. He was running away from you because he was scared and was not ready. I am not exactly sure what you mean by "visit them". Also, there is not exactly one month for breeding. In parrots, there is a breeding season which is different depending on where you live geographically.

If I were you, I would go very slowly. Try doing things with them that are hands-off. You could begin with target training, or even just trying to gain his trust again. When you walk past his cage, drop a small treat into his food cup while talking softly and calmly to him. He will come to realize that when you are around good things happen. If they have a decent sized cage, and toys to keep them stimulated, it is not necessary for them to leave their cage if they do not want to. Moving at their pace is very important.

 

[GingerDee]

Sorry I really suck at communicating...

Ben and Kate were bought a year ago by my bf. Then we broke up but I seen him a few times in the last year, so seen the birds too.

I typically don't push any animal to do anything...unless it's good for them..

With Ben, he doesn't want to be away from Kate now or before breeding season. She is his safety net. Introvert and extrovert.

So "chasing" him is following him around his cage until he steps up. He is known for passing out when grabbed so I go slowly. He's been ok'd by the vet.. he just gets too worked up I talk to him the whole time. Ask him if he wants to go see Kate..and eventually he steps up and I immediately put him with Kate,wherever she might be. I usually use the whole play center to put him back in his cage. But i always go slowly because of the him passing out thing...and I know he's a biter.

No matter how I say it, it sounds mean...but before this breeding shizz he loved me. I really don't think I'm pushing him in a mean way..just helping an introvert make the first step.

Kate doesn't want me to touch her so I don't...he can be a wild bird too....but just come out of the cage...if you want to see Kate.

They are in my bedroom and I've left their door open...but he just doesn't want to come out.

I have zero interest in target training. None. They can do whatever they want..as long as they mostly listen...bed time is the big one. Other than that they are free to do what they want.

Kate likes me, but she's decided my son is her person...so I am Ben's friend and the food bringer.

Kate doesn't bite and I'd love her to come to me..but she won't. So she's a no touch friend too.
So Ben didn't slowly get mean, it was instantly once he started trying to make a nest and it's gotten worse since.

 

[GingerDee]

I'm saying I'm a newbie...but I got him into a cat kennel without him passing out...and the bird grommet and vet he passed out for....so I feel confident he somewhat trusts me.

A year ago he was showing real interest in me..but my bird would not have anything to do with that.

 

[Monica]

I'm sorry, but I'm really with Matt here.

So "chasing" him is following him around his cage until he steps up. He is known for passing out when grabbed so I go slowly.

If there's no reason to, you *SHOULD NOT* chase him around the cage!

Target training can be used to teach him to step up without having to chase him. That is, he'll WANT to step up and he'll stop avoiding you. Him passing out? That is *NOT* normal! And if it is indeed due to stress, then this is an even bigger reason to work on target training! You would be keeping his stress levels down, thus reducing the chances of him passing out.

I have zero interest in target training....as long as they mostly listen

Target training can be used to help teach them what you want them to do. It will not cause them to become "little robots", but simply help to bridge a communication gap and make it easier to handle them - including Kate. Even if she never really bonds with you, it would still be beneficial to be able to move her if you need to without getting bitten.

 

[GingerDee]

Maybe.. but I can't seem to get straight answers any where .... Clicker training sounds great..but does nothing for him being in season..

I'm just trying to make it day to day. I can't even go near the cage, so can't even think about clicker training.

One person says one thing And another says another....so basically I listen..but everyone is an expert...so I do what works for us.

 

[Monica]

Target training is the first, or one of the first, recommendations of clicker training. That said, you do not need a clicker in order to clicker train a bird. Many people simply find it easier as it is a clear and concise noise. Some birds can be bothered by the sound of a clicker - which again, birds can be trained to accept, just takes a bit longer.

Just because you can't take a bird out of the cage doesn't mean that they can't be trained! In fact, I RECOMMEND training at the cage! If you force your bird away from the cage in order to train them, then this increases the chances that the bird will become cage aggressive.


A simple method to start working with them is that any time you walk by the cage, drop a treat(s) into a treat cup. Try to do so in such a way that your bird(s) doesn't freak out. This can help teach them to look forward to your presence. You don't need to look at the bird(s), or even acknowledge them, just drop the treat(s) and go.

Once the bird gets more comfortable, you can work on training through the cage bars. You can have the bird reach through the bars for a reward, you can offer the reward via a spoon, or, again, in the cup. Basically, figure out ways to avoid getting bitten while rewarding the desired behavior that you do want.

 

[webchirp]

Have they checked his blood pressure? I had Carlton do the woobles and then look like he was going to pass out. His blood pressure was very high. He is now on enalapril and does well.

 

[GingerDee]

Target training is the first, or one of the first, recommendations of clicker training. That said, you do not need a clicker in order to clicker train a bird. Many people simply find it easier as it is a clear and concise noise. Some birds can be bothered by the sound of a clicker - which again, birds can be trained to accept, just takes a bit longer.

Just because you can't take a bird out of the cage doesn't mean that they can't be trained! In fact, I RECOMMEND training at the cage! If you force your bird away from the cage in order to train them, then this increases the chances that the bird will become cage aggressive.


A simple method to start working with them is that any time you walk by the cage, drop a treat(s) into a treat cup. Try to do so in such a way that your bird(s) doesn't freak out. This can help teach them to look forward to your presence. You don't need to look at the bird(s), or even acknowledge them, just drop the treat(s) and go.

Once the bird gets more comfortable, you can work on training through the cage bars. You can have the bird reach through the bars for a reward, you can offer the reward via a spoon, or, again, in the cup. Basically, figure out ways to avoid getting bitten while rewarding the desired behavior that you do want.

Makes perfect sense if I could go near the cage.. before this that would have worked.

But it seems like Id be working on step 2 first before step one.

There is 2 birds and he will not be away from her. She wants out. She could/would WILL be trainable. He needs to be alone or he relies on her and gets her worked up.

Because of me and these birds..I don't care if they are wild. I love them anyhow. Just now dealing with the season thing.

This didn't happen before. Before they were good...until you started trying to make a nest.

 

[Monica]

They can be trained together, too. Monkey see, monkey do.

It's normal for them to not want human interaction when they bond and become hormonal. Doesn't mean that that can't be changed though.


This page explains "step one" quite well if a bird is not comfortable with a human approaching the cage.

Parrot Behavior Myths: Building Trust | Learning Parrots

learningparrots.com

 

[GingerDee]

They can be trained together, too. Monkey see, monkey do.

It's normal for them to not want human interaction when they bond and become hormonal. Doesn't mean that that can't be changed though.


This page explains "step one" quite well if a bird is not comfortable with a human approaching the cage.

Parrot Behavior Myths: Building Trust | Learning Parrots

learningparrots.com

She wants people. Or a people friendship. He does too...just way more shy that her...but right now they are both super mad if I go anywhere near them.

Typically, he lets her go out he just calls for her the entire time. But he is more interested in "me" than she is. The female wants my son...just knows I open the door or feed her....

He's so shy. I know it hasn't been long we've known each other, and I have other birds who aren't scared of me.

Eventually I can see training being awesome...but honestly I just want to be able to enjoy their presence and get them back in the cage when needed. That's it. Lol But he also needs to get excercise and practise flying again.