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Overgrown beak and nails, poor feather quality

Tajra

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Hello, I am a veterinary student and I aim to become an avian specialist one day but I have a, presumably/hopefully, nutrition problem with my bird that I don´t know how to solve.
I have a crimson-bellied conure, female, 1year and 9months old. A single housed bird. Never tested for viral diseases but her parents are the only two parrots in the house. She was parent-raised. Parents were fed a seed-based diet with multiple vegetables and fruits daily, occasionally with vitamin or pellet supplementation. She was on the same diet for 3 months until I got her.

After that she was on seed-mix 60%, zupreem high potency 30%, vegetables, and fruit 10% till the age of 6 – 7 months, then I started feeding her Harrison´s pellets 50 – 60% vegetables 10-15%, seed-mix 10-20%, sprouted seeds during training sessions
Over the months I added more variety to the vegetables I fed her and cut back the seeds.
One month ago I added a new pellet brand: Psittacus. Several months before that she was on Harrison´s lifetime adult fine and all the stuff listed below.

Her current diet consists of: Harrison´s lifetime adult fine + Psittacus pellet around 60-70% - she gets a roughly equal amount of each brand, Fresh or frozen vegetables 25 – 35%, Sprouted seeds and microgreens 5 - 10%, dried herbs, 1-2 times a week fresh or bio dried fruit, primrose oil 2drops once a week, A seed-mix with a large variety of seeds including wild seeds and vegetable seeds 5-10%

Medical history and current problem

Around the age of 10-11 months, she needed her first nail trim (which is quite soon in my understanding) I purchased a sand perch and changed all rope perches for wooden perches in her cage. She still has some rope perches outside but also a variety of wooden perches of various shapes and sizes.

Now at the age of 1year and 9months, she has overgrown nails and beak. To add it up the tip of her upper beak and a small piece of her lower beak broke off a few days ago.

Her feathers also have poor quality – she has black feather apexes and few whole black feathers. They start out normal but slowly turn black over time.
She is otherwise a healthy bird. I weigh her usually once a week and her weight stayed the same the whole year: 72 – 74g. She loves foraging and chewing on various wooden and cardboard/paper toys. I encourage her to play with toys and train with her almost daily.

I am in a covid quarantine right now but as soon as the quarantine ends I am taking her to the avian vet to get her beak and nails trimmed and have full bloodwork done. I have a good avian vet but she is not a nutrition specialist and there isn´t one in the whole country (Czech Republic).

I need advice if there is anything I could do to improve her diet or what additional tests I could let the vet run to find out what is wrong with her.
The only thing that I know is wrong is that my parrot never got enough unfiltered sunlight but I am not sure if it would cause beak and nail overgrowth. And Harrison´s pellets should have sufficient content of vitamin D3 so it should supplement the sunlight at least partially.

Does anyone have any idea or do you know an avian nutrition specialist who I could ask online for help?
 

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Hankmacaw

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With and overgrown beak and nails and feathers turning black, the initial suspicion would be liver disease (there are several diseases of the liver).

Liver disease is often caused by inadequate or over supplemented diets. I would immediately cut out the following from your bird's diet and start her on Milk Thistle;
5 - 10%, dried herbs, 1-2 times a week fresh or bio dried fruit, primrose oil 2drops once a week, A seed-mix with a large variety of seeds including wild seeds and vegetable seeds 5-10%

"Adjunct therapy has also gained favor in the treatment of liver disease in avian species. Nutriceuticals such as the active ingredients in milk thistle, particularly Silymarin, are useful in the prevention or treatment of various liver diseases. A suggested dosages range is 100-150 mg/kg PO q 8-12 hours.26 Johnson-Delaney suggests mixing 750mg Silymarin (milk thistle) in 10ml of lactulose and administering 75 mg/kg PO q 12 hours.27 Birds with elevated cholesterol and lipidemia may benefit from policosanol.27 SAM-e has also been recommended for its hepatoprotective abilities. Long-term management required routine evaluation of liver enzymes as well as bile acids."

She needs to get to a vet right away and have a CBC and Chem Panel performed on her.
 

CrazyKozmo

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Does she have access to natural light, not through a window (the window filters out the UV spectrum, but we want the UV spectrum for our birds)? Or a full spectrum light above her cage? The UV lighting can help them process the calcium and vit D...which are really important for really everything. I get my full spectrum light from Amazon...not sure how easy that would be in your country. Also, bathing at least once a week (or misting with a spray bottle) is really good for feathers. Does she have any chew toys...like bird safe wood (untreated pine)? That should help with the beak length. I'm sure other folks will chime in with ideas soon.:)
 

Hankmacaw

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If the bird is eating Harrison's pellets that will provide sufficient D3 which is what unfiltered sunshine does (produces D3 in the skin). The symptoms are much more consistent with liver disease.
 

Tajra

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Hi, thank you for your replies. Update: We had been at the vet. Her biochemistry panel is good, everything is within normal limits. Her CBC showed marked monocytosis - the vet prescribed antibiotics. After the course of antibiotics, we repeated CBC in 10 days - monocytosis is now only mild which could be because of moult. We will do CBC again in a few months.
The vet said that her toenails weren´t overgrown, only super sharp. Her beak needed trimming.
She chews on plenty of wood. She is eating Harrison´s which should supplement her Vit D3 requirements. She is bathing twice a week.
Any ideas about how I could modify her diet to improve feather quality?
 

Hankmacaw

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You can add Red Palm Oil to her daily regimen. It is amazing what it will do for feather quality and color. Actually, the Harrison's High Potency is recommended for conures. You might try switching to that. Remember that feather quality doesn't just change overnight - once a feather is grown it is pretty much what it is, until molted and a new one grows in.

"Chronic disease conditions may display increased numbers of monocytes (monocytosis). Monocytosis can occur in cases of chlamydiosis (psittacosis)."

Did she test positive for Psittacosis, or have any other chronic illness while a chick or maturing? Did you eliminate the herbs and seeds?
 

Tajra

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She didn´t test positive for psittacosis or any other illness. She never lost weight or displayed any signs of impaired health.
I didn´t add any herbs to her diet since the vet visit. I started using seeds again - for training and to encourage her to forage in new toys and places.

How much red palm oil would you recommend? Also, I had no idea about Harrison´s High Potency being better suited for conures (do you know why that is?)
 

Hankmacaw

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Dr. Harrison, not I, has determined that the high potency is more appropriate for conures - since he has been performing research on bird nutrition for over 30 years and is darned smart, I take his word. Conures are more closely related to macaws than any other bird and macaws require more fat in their diet.
 

Hankmacaw

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With the small amount of RPO that you will need for a conure, probably mixing .25ml in with her pellets would b e the best way to give it too her. I have a GW macaw and she gets .5 ml by syringe daily.
 

Mockinbirdiva

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My Crimsons are fed Zupreem, Roudy Bush mini, and Harrison's Adult Lifetime fine and whole fresh vegetables ( As in chunks -fresh- which they shred a good bit but the color of their poop is suggestive they consume those vegetables by the color of their poop. They get very little seed maybe once or twice a week as a treat to the amount of maybe a teaspoon or less. It's the happiest chortling I hear from them when they do get seed... like thrilled crack addicts. When I do put a dish in with the seed they still have their cup in the cage with the pellet varieties. I put that tiny amount of seed in when I start changing their paper and pull it back out when I'm done whether they are done with the seed or not. It always seems to amaze me how they go to town chowing down on their pellets while I'm with them in their room cleaning cages. Ruby will be on my shoulder, go in her cage to retrieve a pellet and come back and eat it while she's on my shoulder ( making sure I don't get too far from her). If I place a female on a door perch with the male in their room they will eat pellets first then preen each other. None of my birds had any seed or vegetables for four months or more before I got back to taking care of them when I broke my hip. ( Hubby was taking care of me, them, the dogs and working and did all he was capable of for my flock). Beaks on the Crimson clan ( Ruby, Scarlett- my Avatar, and Casey) are more smooth than the one Crimson in the dining room -male Rocket. The Crimson clan room has a higher humidity level.

As far as the blackened feathers, if it isn't diet related another cause can be from her repetitively rubbing her body against bars or toys. If you can put a camera on her and watch her activities it may explain the chafing of color ( the proper term is escaping my brain at the moment) from her feathers. I have not been successful in getting my birds to accept RPO no matter how I try to hide it but the next time I make bird treats I'll add more RPO in to see if they'll still eat them.

The two females on the left are sisters ( who really hate each other and are posturing)... the male is threatening me for being close with his swirly head movements. None of them are kept together... they each have their own flight cages. The female on the far left really doesn't care if her tail feathers are kempt.... usually ratty from climbing on the bars googling love messages to the male.

Edited to add- the box you see in Scarlette's cage is not a nest box but a sleeping box... open ended on both sides with a peep hole in the center.

Crimson Clan 1.JPG
 
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