INR - what age do ringnecks get through the bluffing stage

[Leslie Cole]

So I want to get a ringneck but I would rather get an older one that has already gone through its bluffing stage... what age should I be looking for? Also I think eventually I would like to also get a Caique. Should I get the IRN first or get a Caique first? Or does it matter?

 

[AkasyaEllric]

My parents one IRN doesn't really bluff anymore and he's a little over 2, but their other one constantly bluffs and will probably do it his entire life, it really depends on the bird. During hormonal season I'm sure they can be bad just like any parrot. Caiques can be bird aggressive so it might not be a question of which one first, but of which one if you don't want to have to deal with separate out times and making sure no one gets hurt. That might not be the end case, but it's better to plan for the worst and hope for the best.

 

[Leslie Cole]

I may also go with two INR’s instead. Is there any preferences of doing two girls or two boys from those that have them?

 

[AkasyaEllric]

I may also go with two INR’s instead. Is there any preferences of doing two girls or two boys from those that have them?

Two boys are better usually. Separate cage is best though since you don't know if they will bond or not. Females have a tendency to hurt or kill any other birds in their cage during breeding season.

 

[fashionfobie]

I keep male birds. My only female's are my chickens.

I agree with above that you should keep each IRN in their independent cage. They can play together on the play stand if they get along. Cages are tight quarters and if two parrots have a disagreement they can't get away like they would in an open setting which can cause serious or fatal injury.

The cages can been kept next to each other with a reasonable gap so the birds can't nip toes. The birds can spend lots of time together, but even if they are best pals.. sometimes birds have bad days too. I know if I was in my bedroom with my best friend 24/7 there would be a tiff at some point

 

[Monica]

I would *LOVE* to slap anyone who says birds go through a "bluffing" stage! It's not "bluffing" that they are doing, just extremely "loud" communication! Any bird that is labeled a "bluffer" is honestly a bird that is saying "Hey! If you wont back off, I'll bite! Please leave me alone!" And they are saying this loud and clearly! However, when you ignore this behavior, guess what happens? Your bird can stop warning you and actually start biting! Or another alternative is that they simply give up and feel like they have no say in the final outcome.

If you are stepping into parrot keeping with the belief that birds bluff, please do not get a bird. However, if you are willing to understand that this is a form of communication, in the nicest and "loudest" way possible without causing pain, and you can take a step back to assess the situation and figure out how to change it in your favor while making it rewarding for the bird, then please, all means, go for it!

Barbara's Force Free Animal Training Talk: Do Animals Bluff?


IRN's and Caiques are both considered to be difficult birds... IRN's because they are *SO* easily misunderstood, caiques because they have such high energy! Caiques you could say are like huskies or german shepherds or well, farm dogs! They need a job, they need enrichment, they need an outlet for all that energy! IRN's perhaps more like little dogs... when they [little dogs] are fearful and constantly put into situations where they go into a fearful state, then that state is somehow rewarded, they become aggressive dogs - biting out of fear. Except with ringnecks, "we" tend to ignore this state and keep pushing them beyond what they are comfortable with, and they bite!


The best thing you can do for *ANY* bird you have is to learn how to communicate with them in such a way that it doesn't cause them undue stress! This is where positive reinforcement training/clicker training/force free animal training/ABC's of behavior/applied behavior analytics comes into play! (when done correctly)

 

[fashionfobie]

IRN's and Caiques are both considered to be difficult birds... IRN's because they are *SO* easily misunderstood, caiques because they have such high energy!

It seems like the reason some people see these birds as "difficult" is that neither of these species are patient with being commanded. Humans can't have that control over them and therefore the bird suffers. This drives me bonkers also! Also the misinterpretation of allopreening with a species that wouldn't excessively do it. Don't force a species that isn't into touch to be forced to accept touch, especially if they are saying, BACK OFF. Drives me up a wall!

I actually find IRN body language very easy to read. The problem is with people not taking their communication seriously.

We need to remember that our bird is NOT our baby, toddler or child. They are independent adult animals. They do know what they are comfortable with, what they love and what they hate. Maintain that respect and try and see the world through their eyes.

My birds mean the world to me, I care for them and love them as I would any of my family members (who are we kidding I probably even love them more then most of my family members ). Yet I can't punish them, tell them to clean their rooms or ask them to chill out and watch a 2 hour feature film. They are more like my best friends who tell me, NO sometimes. It is a true and honest relationship. It is ok to be told NO. Birds tell each other no all the time! Even mated pairs, it is socially acceptable in their societies. When our birds tell us, "no" and we respect that no they learn that they can trust us. They can be themselves around us.

 

[AkasyaEllric]

However, when you ignore this behavior, guess what happens? Your bird can stop warning you and actually start biting!

This is actually why Slade stopped warning before he bites. Someone who had him before didn't listen. He does more now, but there are times where he just strikes because we're still working through things.

 

[Monica]

Birds who "bite out of no where" may still show signs that they are about to bite, but the signs are extremely subtle... it could be a quick eye pin (hard to see if bird has dark eyes!), a wider stance, maybe slightly raised feathers at the nape of the neck?

I understand that these birds may be more difficult to work with, but sometimes, they tend to be more receptive to training! Maybe it just depends on bird? But it could also depend on the trainer.


I also find ringnecks easy to read. I have an ARN that, for all I know, is wild caught import. Being parent raised, she would bite as a last resort. She will not go out of her way to attack and bite - she would rather avoid conflict. I can easily see how she could turn into a biter if I didn't "listen" to her.

 

[Leslie Cole]

Well - it so happened that someone near me had a 1 1/2 yr old IRN they needed to rehome. He’s now with me and is the sweetest thing. I’ve noticed he scoots away when he doesn’t want to be messed with so I give him his space and then try a little later and usually he wants to step up then.

 

[fashionfobie]

Well - it so happened that someone near me had a 1 1/2 yr old IRN they needed to rehome. He’s now with me and is the sweetest thing. I’ve noticed he scoots away when he doesn’t want to be messed with so I give him his space and then try a little later and usually he wants to step up then.

Well Done! Keep it up

It sounds like you are on a great path and hopefully you will make a little friend in short order.

 

[Leslie Cole]

Curious about what a normal weight range is for an Indian ringneck. I took my new sweet pea to the vet this weekend just to have him checked out and get him established somewhere and they said he was 101 grams. They said that was good but wanted to check here to see if anyone could validate that as a healthy weight as well.

 

[Leslie Cole]

Also - does anyone use a small heat lamp for their IRNs?

 

[AkasyaEllric]

When I weigh my parents 1 IRN that doesn't hate me, he's about 116-119. He's about the same age too. It may just be a food thing. He could be within range but once you get him on a good diet (if he isn't) he will get up to the more average weight. We don't use any heat lamps here cause of the risk of them burning themselves. A ceramic heater is safer as far as I know, but, I don't use them either.

 

[Leslie Cole]

Okay - I had read something that mentioned around 115 grams myself so that’s why I wanted to ask. I asked about the lamp just because I was a little worried that it might be a little chilly in the house during our Houston summer when we always have the ac on - around 68-70. The vet mentioned maybe getting a small heat lamp so again- I thought I would check with those who actually have IRNs at home to get more personal info on that subject. When I got him his previous owner had him on a Walmart brand parrot seed mix and then gave him veggies. I’m trying to move him off of that slowly but he is so in love with the sunflower seeds in the mix (he just picks those out and leaves the rest) that it’s a bit harder than I had hoped. I have a good pellet food for him now but I’m still adding some of the seed mix to make sure he eats and get him used to the pellets being there - should I try just taking the seeds out all together to see if he will eat the pellets?

 

[Monica]

Birds who are flighted may also weigh more than birds who are clipped... simply because muscle weighs more than fat. Based on the picture, he is clipped, so getting muscle wont be as easy as if he were flighted.


If he's eating pellets you could remove seeds and use those as training treats. Doesn't hurt to keep an eye on his weight during the transition period.


I would only worry about the heat if it dropped below 50° F consistently *OR* your bird appeared cold (fluffed up and hunched down - assuming he's not sick, which he would appear the same even with it warm).