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Can't take her out without violent attacks...

Kenzie

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I have a female DNA tested Forsten Lorikeet, at around 3 years old. She has started violently attacking my hands some months ago. Thankfully it's ONLY my hands. Just now, we were laying on the couch and the night was going fine- I thought okay hormones. I get it, and haven't been letting her out hardly at all because she tunnel visions me and goes for the attack seconds after being let out. But things have been without incident the last two times. But just now she just latched on my hand. We were on the couch, my hand was propping up my head. And she just fluffed up and latched down on my hand. I had to grab her and placed her down and she launched at my hand again to grab a hold. It's late anyways so I tossed her back in the cage and covered her up because when I put her back she started bouncing at me within the cage and screaming her murder noises she makes when she wants to attack my other birds.

I don't want to grab her but if I don't, she won't stop coming at me- and I never started with this. Before, it'd be a fluff, bite, let go. Blood would pour and I'd not react other than maybe placing her elsewhere to cool down. But it's gotten worse. Over and over, and shes very quick and does NOT let go easily. I could probably swing her all around the room a couple times before she let go. I DON'T do this, I lower my hand, and free myself, and have to grab her.

I am totally at a loss. I would to try and distract murder desires with training... but holding any food she wants also causes a violent attack as well. She'll dismiss the food to attack my hands.

This time I am actually in tears from hurt feelings, not the pain. Though it certainly stings and is pouring blood in the 4 punctures I have. I'm just upset and want to not constantly feel on edge around her. I JUST got over my fear of her and she has to do this. I thought we were getting better and she was chilled out because of our most recent two, violent free interactions.

The only thing I can see as a trigger would be my hands existing... but I kinda can't exist around her without my hands.
 
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Destiny

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When I worked in food service, I would wear gloves made from a kevlar-like material to protect my fingers while using knives in the kitchen. It isn't really a good longterm solution to the biting problem, but I'm wondering if wearing sturdy gloves might be a way to protect your hands and allow you to interact with more confidence. Since she seems to focus on your hands, changing their appearance might help (or make it worse). Hard to say.

The cut gloves I wore were light weight and flexible fabric. Not sure if they would protect against a beak, but they did a good job keeping my digits safe from sharp blades. Just a random thought I had.
 

Nikomania

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Can you trace back to when she began attacking you to see if anything had changed? Perhaps an episode that wasn't favorable in her eyes?

Will she be distracted by treats when you get her out?
 

Kenzie

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Can you trace back to when she began attacking you to see if anything had changed? Perhaps an episode that wasn't favorable in her eyes?

Will she be distracted by treats when you get her out?
She wants to eat my hands while I hold treats and gets super crazy attacking me even after I've abandoned the treat... Shes NUTS.

Nothing has changed as far as I can remember. I've never been too cuddly with her to discourage hormones. I guess hand attacking STARTED with my keyboard - I'd be on my computer and she'd get pissy at the typing and she'd attack my hands. She wasn't so crazy about it after a while, after I tried to be slow about my typing approach. And idk.
 

Monaco

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I can't resist chuckling at "murder noises." I'm sorry you've had such a bloody setback. Can she make her own way to a stand or playtop? I use this method if Monaco is having food bowl aggression or a crabby/murdery day. She puts herself back in if I lower the lights. (her murdery lunges are very rare now, but she enjoys the autonomy.)
 

Kenzie

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I can't resist chuckling at "murder noises." I'm sorry you've had such a bloody setback. Can she make her own way to a stand or playtop? I use this method if Monaco is having food bowl aggression or a crabby/murdery day. She puts herself back in if I lower the lights. (her murdery lunges are very rare now, but she enjoys the autonomy.)
She can but defeats to purpose for training D: She is fully flighted so getting around is no issue. And yes murder noises sounds funny! And they usually are. Until they're directed at you :cautious:
 

Monaco

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She can but defeats to purpose for training D: She is fully flighted so getting around is no issue. And yes murder noises sounds funny! And they usually are. Until they're directed at you :cautious:
Agreed. I love growling at the food dish or a particularly offensive foot toy, but I'm on high alert when I get the growls!
 

Tazlima

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Aw man. This is rough.

There's always a reason for biting. Unfortunately, figuring out 1) what that reason is and 2) how to reduce the behavior, can be incredibly difficult and frustrating, but don't give up.


Keep a log of the bites. Where you are in the house. What you're wearing. What you're holding. What's making noise around you. What position you're sitting/standing in. What activity you're engaged in. Track her habits too. How long since she's eaten? Could be she's hangry, or cranky because she's sleepy if it happens later in the evening. Eventually you'll find the pattern.

Also write down how you respond to the biting. (I know you pull her off, but do you yell? Stay silent? What do you do after she's detached from your flesh? Leave the room? Put her in her cage?

Play detective, and in the meantime, can you work with her inside her cage? (Targeting and whatnot, and treating with millet or similar, that you can offer while keeping your fingers out of reach), so that the two of you can have regular positive interactions without the possibility of injury?

I know how hurtful, emotionally and physically, this can be, but don't give up. There IS a solution. You just have to find it.
 
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