Birds and dogs

[SunnySandi]

I agree that no one toy is safe unsupervised until you know how your dog plays. If puppy ends up being a dog who is more likely to swallow non-food items than no toy may ever be safe unsupervised.

Our girl loves anything that squeaks, particularly latex toys and has no interest in hard plastic toys or tennis balls. But she doesn’t destroy toys either, now if it has a hole in it already, she will exploit it and de-stuff it, lol.

For chewing we always used bully sticks, veggie/non rawhide based chews. We also used yak sticks for a time.

I would absolutely avoid ANY type of Antler at all costs, I’ve first hand seen 2 dogs break teeth on them, one of them being a year old German shepherd who had to have his broken molar removed surgically. That story isn’t to frighten you, it’s just my key reason as to why I’d avoid any truly hard chew.

Honestly anything you give a dog at first is a risk because it’s new, it’s all a learning experience that will be unique to you and your dog.

 

[Sparkles99]

@SunnySandi What do you think of raw beef knuckle bones? I've heard they were good, but you seem up on dog chews. Apparently the weight bearing bones are too hard.

 

[Shezbug]

I know this thread is all about finding safe toys and chew things but after an incident I heard about last week I just wanted to share a general reminder to all dog owners...

If you are giving raw bones to chew on just make sure your dog is not ingesting the whole thing unless it is an appropriate size/amount of bone for your dog to consume.

All my dogs (except Suzie) have loved raw bones and eaten them regularly with no issues at all but some owners are not so lucky and I guess like many things it just takes the right set of circumstances for a usually safe practice to become unsafe.

In my whole life I had only ever heard of cooked bones being a problem for dogs to chew and consume due to cooked bones splintering and dogs being unable to digest cooked bones, then last week my friend contacted me totally devastated about the loss of her little dog.

She usually gives her dog chew bones with some meat on them and the dog only usually eats the meat and a very small amount of the bone but this last time for some reason the dog was enjoying the bone so much that it ate nearly the whole thing. The next day it was struggling to poop so it was rushed to the vet where it passed away not too long after arriving there- I have never heard of a blockage causing death so fast but it is certainly a good reason and reminder as to why we have to monitor all toys, foods and bedding and pay attention to our pets changes in behaviour.

 

[Alien J]

then last week my friend contacted me totally devastated about the loss of her little dog.

Tell your friend I'm so sorry.

 

[Pixiebeak]

I've seen several cases of whole/ splintered animal bones in dogs and cats requiring surgery and occasionally perforations complications upto and including death.

Its never bern worth the risk to me to give animal ( or chicken) bones to my dogs .

The cow hooves will soften as your dog works them, then hardern back up when they stop chewing. They have nice angles. Best too all 4 of mine and my friends and neighbors dogs are drawn to chew on them. So high appeal factor.

 

[SunnySandi]

@Shezbug I'm very sorry for your friends loss. I don't like to speculate as far as what could have happened, but the smaller the dog the quicker things can go from bad to worse, as an owner of a little dog it's a fear of mine.

@Sparkles99 I've personally never given any bone, be it raw or cooked to our girl nor do I recommend it, but there are plenty of people who do with no issue, I'm just not one of those people lol. Bully sticks are my go to chew, they aren't going to break any teeth, are fully digestible and now they have odor free varities to avoid the stink and staining.

I take away any chew once its small enough to fit in her mouth without her holding it so she doesn't try to just swallow the end on me (typically when theres about 2inches left, Sandi is a small). Having to fish a slippery, half chewed chew out of a struggling dogs throat isn't fun.

 

[SunnySandi]

I would also like to add that since you are welcoming a goldendoodle to your home to please, please, PLEASE introduce it to grooming as early as possible!

I cannot stress how important it is for a dog that will need to be professionally groomed to be comfortable with the grooming process. This includes brushing, nail clipping, touching feet, ears, tail, mouth, etc.

There is no easy way to explain to an owner that their sweet little Pudding who would never hurt a fly tried to bite multiple times during the groom and had to be muzzled. Or that you've had to do a shave down because the coat was pelted and it would be inhumane to try to brush severe matting out of the coat.

From the time puppy comes through the door is a good time to begin getting it used to brushing, just a simple pin brush down the back, short, treat filled, fun sessions with the fun new toy called a brush. Gradually increasing where your brushing in short intervals. Rubbing paws and gently squeezing toes, belly rubs and touching every part of them during cuddles. All of which are essential for a new puppy. Short baths or splash pad time to help them get used to water, a bath doesn't have to include soap mind you, a wet n dry can work quite well for "real bath" prep.

Always try to keep new activities fun for puppy, it will also help build their confidence, the world is terrifying when everything is new! Also don't be afraid to make mistakes, you're inevitably going to brush a little too hard or pull a snag and puppy will yipe or cry, it's okay! Just a little "Oops" some cuddles and continuing elsewhere before circling back to a problem spot. You're probably going to cut a nail too short, it's okay! A little kwikstop powder and pressure and all will be good, but now you know not to go that short.

I thought I would add about grooming as to me, it's as important as general socialization.

 

[Sparkles99]

I love the name Pudding.

 

[fashionfobie]

I thought I would add about grooming as to me, it's as important as general socialization.

Totally agree. Nail training, teeth brushing and bathing are part of any dogs life, and for longer coat dogs it is very important to socialise grooming from an early age.

My dog gets professionally groomed every eight weeks. He isn't a poodle type, but he has a double coat and his outer coat is long. It is well worth taking him in! They do an amazing job with his coat, trim is nails, and even brush his teeth.

I fill in the gaps between those weeks, brushing out burrs and also brushing his teeth... But the professionals know what they are doing. Some groomers even offer puppy packages so your dog can go in for pretend grooming more often than usual, to get used to the noises and process.

 

[Mizzely]

I got Luke after he was already fearful of a lot of things, so muzzle training was something we found beneficial too. Lot less stressful at the vet when he willingly puts on a muzzle when he would prefer to bite someone because he has an ear infection!

 

[Alien J]

My dog gets professionally groomed every eight weeks. He isn't a poodle type, but he has a double coat and his outer coat is long. It is well worth taking him in! They do an amazing job

Sounds like my Dusty, with the double coat. It's the under coat that mats up...right against the skin! I always say he's my velcro dog bcuz everything sticks to Dusty.