what the...? bubbles ontop of my betta fish's bowl?

[snackies]

what does it mean? I recently moved him into the bowl because he seemed very unhappy in the tank, he seemed very happy instantly and loves his bowl - he has lots of hidey spots and loves his real plant. I noticed a few bubbles the other day, but each day there has been progressively more - what does it mean? he is pretty happy and eating n' everything.

 

[GypsyWitch]

It seems he is very happy with his new digs and is building a bubble nest in hopes that a female betta will be in his area in the near future.

Bettas do best in small areas because in their native environment they live in shallow puddles. I have a betta care book if you want it. I no longer breed them and have no use for it anymore...

Sent from my SPH-M910 using Tapatalk

 

[Chicobo]

I agree with Lynn, he's happy! Bettas build "bubble nests" to show they like their environments, it isn't a bad thing at all! One thing I learned, though, about keeping a Betta in a bowl like that is you still need to be very careful about maintaining pH levels and temperature, especially in the winter months. My last Betta ended up making some slime on the surface of his bowl and it was pretty hard to handle that without a filter.

 

[waterfaller1]

Bettas do best in small areas because in their native environment they live in shallow puddles.

This is a false perpetuated lie...sorry. This is like saying budgies should be in small cages because they are small birds.

 

[waterfaller1]

Rebecca, please go here to learn about keeping bettas in bowls. UltimateBettas

 

[snackies]

thanks for the info guys - and thanks so much for offering me the book; but I'm in australia! I think postage would be way too expensive.

my old fighter fish, sushi, went through a stage of making bubbles for months on end but eventually stopped - I guess he gave up looking for a girlfriend lol.

that's sad that he wants a girlfriend! should I buy him one? rango's nest is far more impressive then anything sushi ever made... sushi's was only ever maybe 1/3 the size of the first pic. I'm glad it means they were happy though. I am scared to clean him out now - he will have to start from scratch...

to be honest Carole, and please don't take this the wrong way, but I don't really need to be told to go learn how about betta's in bowls. I had sushi for 3 years in a similar bowl, and he was so happy and interactive, he used to swim up to the top when we saw me and get excited when I showed him the food container... I have also had 2 previous betta fish who lived for very long and were very happy. rango loves his bowl. I bought him a actual tank with a filter, light and heater for $130, much like this; http://www.thereefshop.com.au/images/aqua-one-starter-kit-cube-aquarium.jpg - and he seemed to be incredibly depressed. he sat on the bottom of the tank and wouldn't move unless something spooked him. I eventually moved into the bowl out of fear he was going to die as he wasn't eating... within 3 days of being in his bowl he perked up and began to show personality again, as well as eating as much as he can. if you could see his bowl up close, you would see how nice it is. I take a lot of care when "designing" the tank, and he has a beautiful fresh plant, a hollow log he sleeps in and a little cute pirate skull he swims in and out of - he zooms around his bowl and now I /know/ he is happy because he feels comfortable enough to want to breed.

my pets are incredibly well looked after and I would never do anything to make any animal upset. I mean, you might have seen a pic of Lola's cage, it's probably twice as big as what she could technically live in comfortably, but I would prefer her to have as much room as possible OR whatever makes her happy - but she loves her big cage and uses every inch of it. in this case, rango didn't want the "better" option... he was cleary unhappy and moving him into a bowl, all thought maybe considered not optional, he has perked up and become happy again...

I don't mean to sound rude, and I understand you may have been just offering advice, but I mean, last time I posted you told me not to call them fighter fish, so I even made an effort to make sure I type betta fish, even though I honestly don't see the harm in calling him a fighter fish... because that's what they do - they fight. it's like a nickname - like calling a dachshund a sausage dog. just because some horrible people ACTUALLY fight them... I am just used to saying fighter fish, it doesn't mean I endorse the cruel "sport" of animal fighting...

I'm sorry I am ranting but I'm just getting annoyed at people telling me that what I'm doing isn't that great when I KNOW my pets are happy.

all my pets are incredibly happy. lola even loves to visit rango and he comes up to check her out.



and I don't really care if people don't agree with me... this is a public forum and I'm voicing my opinion, like you have.

 

[waterfaller1]

They do not fight in nature, like they do when people force them together. If that were true they would all be ripped to shreds in the wild, and that is not the case. If you buy a female, they cannot be kept together. He will kill her, or she can actually be aggressive towards him. Even keeping them within constant sight of each other would be very stressful. Good luck.

 

[waterfaller1]

my old fighter fish, sushi, went through a stage of making bubbles for months on end but eventually stopped - I guess he gave up looking for a girlfriend lol.

rango didn't want the "better" option... he was cleary unhappy and moving him into a bowl, all thought maybe considered not optional, he has perked up and become happy again...



I'm sorry I am ranting but I'm just getting annoyed at people telling me that what I'm doing isn't that great when I KNOW my pets are happy.




and I don't really care if people don't agree with me... this is a public forum and I'm voicing my opinion, like you have.

Nice attitude. I am only trying to encourage you to at least read, and get more education about keeping bettas. Bettas should have heaters. Keeping parameters correct in barely a gallon of water is very difficult. Rango may not have been "happy" because the flow was too strong, or the paramaters were off. Do you test the water on a regular basis with drop test kits? {titration} You may not like my advice, another reason I suggest you go and talk to the hundreds of people who keep bettas. I wouldn't go to a fish forum to learn about keeping parrots. Asking the questions why does my male betta make a bubble nest, and should I buy him a female, says you know very little about them.

 

[GypsyWitch]

This is a false perpetuated lie...sorry. This is like saying budgies should be in small cages because they are small birds.

Calling it a lie is a little harsh. It has nothing to do with their size. It has everything to do with my own experience and observations. Very few of my fish ever did well in tanks over 3 - 5 gallons. It seemed to stess them out even with plenty of hiding spots and shelter. And I said "smaller spaces"...not "as small of a space possible". The 4 I keep now are in two 1.5 gallon tanks with dividers. They are happy and healthy. The bowl she has her fish in is perfectly fine and as she has stated...he seems much more happy than in the larger tank...

Sent from my SPH-M910 using Tapatalk

 

[waterfaller1]

Frequently Asked Questions - UltimateBettas
Reposted from Ultimate Bettas~written by Random Wiktor~

Introduction
____ With perhaps the exception of minimum gallonage, few topics are so heatedly debated in the realm of betta husbandry is the requirement or lack thereof for filtration in a betta tank. While no responsible aquarist would argue against the benefits of keeping fish in cycled tanks, bettas survive and thrive with partial or even full water changes in uncycled and unfiltered tanks. Indeed, traditional keeping in Thailand involves little more than a glass box and a dried almond leaf, and is home some of the world’s healthiest and most beautiful stock. Still, the ethical issue of denying bettas the same level of care we would other tropical fish is reason enough to re-consider traditional husbandry practices.
____ Three basic schools of thought have evolved with increasing concern for the appropriate husbandry of bettas in regards to filtration. Some betta keepers are staunchly opposed to filtration, citing the stagnant natural environment of wild Betta splendens. On the opposite end of the spectrum, many betta keepers insist that like all tropical fish, bettas demand cycled, filtered aquariums and are subjected to undue stress under any other conditions. Finally, many aquarists concede that both methods of keeping are acceptable, as are lesser degrees of both in-between. This article serves to investigate the positives and negatives of each philosophy, allowing you to decide where you stand.
View One: Bettas Should Not Have Filtration
____ Some betta keepers argue that it is un-natural, stressful, and even dangerous to keep bettas in water with any current. Because the environment of wild bettas is stagnant, they argue, it is unnecessary to have any current in captivity. The presence of a current in a betta’s aquarium, they argue, stresses the betta physically and psychologically by forcing them to swim in conditions they would never encounter in the wild. What’s more, the domesticated betta often has large, cumbersome finnage that catches current like a sail catches wind, making swimming in a current difficult, stressful, and dangerously exhausting.
____ Indeed, those subscribing to the anti-filtration school of thought note that the long term stress from swimming in a current will wear down a betta’s immune system, making it susceptible to disease. Alternately, it may affect the fish immediately and directly through stress potentially severe enough to result in heart failure. There is a great deal of anecdotal evidence supporting this claim from owners whose bettas have literally exhausted themselves to death.
____ It is true that heavily finned tail types such as halfmoons and super deltas can be stressed to the point of harm or even death by a current - sometimes even a mild one. However, many bettas benefit from mild filtration; the reduction of waste in the water, the growth of beneficial bacteria to stabilize water parameters, the decreased frequency and intensity of water changes, and the oxygenation of water to prevent the blooming of gram negative bacteria are just a few of the reasons why filtration may not be so bad after all. Plakats and females especially do not suffer much from the presence of a current, and some owners even report that it provides a valuable source of behavioral enrichment. Thus, in the case of shorter tail types, it may be less stressful to have a filtered, cycled tank than perform full water changes - as is needed in unfiltered tanks.
View Two: Only Cycled, Filtered Tanks are Acceptable
____ On the opposite side of the spectrum, some betta hobbyists insist that the only way to properly keep bettas is in a fully cycled, filtered tank. They argue that a betta’s hardiness is no excuse for keeping them in conditions any different than other tropical fish. If 100% water changes are considered inappropriately stressful and potentially dangerous for other fish, they must have equally negative effects on bettas. This is certainly a valid point. Full water changes risk dangers such as temperature fluctuations, pH changes, and other potentially damaging changes to the fish’s external environment that are known to result in chronic stress and illness in bettas. Cycling is considered the ideal choice for other fish, so one must question if
the exception of bettas to this rule is rooted in valid theory, or simply in owner convenience.
____ That said, it would seem that if cycling and filtration were essential to betta health, we would not observe the large number of bettas who survive and thrive in unfiltered aquariums globally. It is more common than not for a betta to live in a tank with no filtration, or with filtration but no cycling. Would we not observe an exponential failure in keeping if 100% water changes were as detrimental as they are made out to be? And what of the traditional Thailand breeders mentioned in the introduction, who were responsible for the species’ domestication, and have raised bettas in unfiltered containers since the species was first brought into captivity? If bettas truly could not survive under such conditions, they would not be in our homes and aquariums today.
View Three: The “Either/Or” Approach
____ In light of these revelations, a moderate “middle of the road” approach may be the most reasonable. The majority of betta keepers support varying degrees of filtration or lack thereof, and the diversity of betta husbandry suggests that the species is indeed capable of surviving in “either/or.” It seems reasonable to concede that bettas are versatile enough to survive with or without filtration, receiving small partial water changes or full cleanings, so long as consistent temperature and water parameters are maintained. Based on the myriad of betta keeping methods, most of which are successful, it seems that maintaining good water quality is, in the end, more important than how exactly you go about doing it. Remember, a filter is not an excuse for lazy cleaning schedules, just as the absence of a filter and performance of full water changes is not an excuse for failing to check water parameters and maintain a consistent temperature following cleanings. Healthy, stable water conditions mean a healthy, stable fish.
Further Information on Filtration: Tank Size and Intensity
____ If after reading this guide you elect to aim for a filtered, cycled tank, there are a few things to remember. Strong currents are, inarguably, stressful to bettas. You should aim to create a mild to moderate current depending on the size of your betta’s finnage. This means that you must be careful in selecting a filter that is sufficiently strong to manage the aquarium’s waste load, but not so powerful that it will stress your betta. There seems to be a direct correlation between the size of a betta’s tank and how stressful filtration is for the fish, so consider the following:

• Tanks that are under 2g tend to lack the space for a betta to escape currents; a “dead zone” is important so that your fish might rest. You may wish to reconsider filtering smaller aquariums.
• In small aquariums, aim for small in-tank filters; most HOBs and in-hood systems are too strong for tanks in the 2.5 gallon range. Whisper sells a new filter designed specifically with small aquariums in mind, and many excellent disposable models are also available. These filters tend to use an aerator to operate, allowing you to adjust the current as you see fit.
• Aquariums in the 5-10g range are generally large enough for the use of in-tank, HOB, or in-hood systems - just make sure that the filter you select does not create an overwhelming amount of current, and be sure to provide a well planted area in a current dead zone for resting.
• Any filter’s intensity can be reduced through the placement of aquarium foam over the output, the placement of pantyhose over the intake, or the use of a plastic bottle baffle. The creative placement of plants by the output can also dither the stream.
• If your fish appears to be stressed, lower the intensity of the filtration or consider removing it all together. While some bettas handle current nicely, others simply do not; assess the situation and do what is best for the health and wellbeing of your fish.

Conclusion
____ Diversity of opinion in fish keeping it what keeps the hobby evolving. When it comes to issues like filtration in betta tanks, there is no definitive “right” or “wrong,” as several methods appear to work. It is up to you individually to decide how you wish to keep your bettas. You may decide to go for the filtered, cycled tanks used for other species of tropical fish. You may seek the more traditional method of keeping bettas in stagnant water. Or you may fall somewhere in-between, perhaps using a filter but not cycling. So long as you maintain stable, appropriate water parameters, you should be gifted with a healthy, long-lived betta.

Suggested Reading:
Aquarium Cycling for Freshwater
The Nitrogen Cycle and Fishless Cycling Methods
Cycling Safety: The Fishless Method

 

[waterfaller1]

Calling it a lie is a little harsh.

I apologize if you felt I was being harsh. I never mean any harm, just trying to educate.

 

[waterfaller1]

Personally, I do not think bettas have to have a filter. I do however feel that the benefits of stability in more than a gallon of water are beneficial. It is more difficult to maintain parameters such as built up waste, NO3, PH, and temperature in a small bowl.Fluctuations of these parameters can lead to stress, and early death. While it is true in Thailand, fish are kept in tiny glass containers, they also receive 100% water changes daily with water from their natural environment, that has the beneficial bacteria they need. They do not use tapwater, well water, bottled water,filtered water, that does not contain the correct established bacteria.
Ultimately, he is your fish, and how you choose to keep him is your choice.

 

[Ribbit21]

Beautiful fish and nice set up. I introduced a female betta to my last fish. The lived together for a few years without any problems. They did breed a few times, but they always ate the eggs or the baby fish once they hatched. Sort of morbid, I know, but I wasn't intending on raising dozens of little bettas.

 

[Love My Zons]

Anything is better IMO than the deli cups you see Bettas in at Walmart. Mine is in a 5 gallon tank he shares with two Neons and one Cory cat, seems happy in there- there is a filter (in tank Whisper submersible) and and air stone. He has been in there since I rescued him last Dec the day after Christmas.

Bowl keeping is fine- but the water changing is VERY important. If you can keep spare bottles of conditioned water sitting aside in gallon jugs that would be great. That is what I did when my bowl bettas years ago.

He is pretty, I will have to post a pic of mine

 

[65sunnyday]

Hi, Rebecca--I know next to nothing about keeping tropical fish--I did once have a 20 gal tank of Angel fish though, then bought what was sold as a'Siamese Fighting Fish'. I eventually put him in the tank, and found him the next day all shriveled up on the floor. I guess he didn't like the big tank, or maybe was picked on by the other fish (I also had tetras in there.) I think your Beta Bowl is very attractive--are all the plants in there live?

 

[Chicobo]

Nice attitude. I am only trying to encourage you to at least read, and get more education about keeping bettas. Bettas should have heaters. Keeping parameters correct in barely a gallon of water is very difficult. Rango may not have been "happy" because the flow was too strong, or the paramaters were off. Do you test the water on a regular basis with drop test kits? {titration} You may not like my advice, another reason I suggest you go and talk to the hundreds of people who keep bettas. I wouldn't go to a fish forum to learn about keeping parrots. Asking the questions why does my male betta make a bubble nest, and should I buy him a female, says you know very little about them.

I agree with that! I'm not trying to sound harsh or mean, not at all, but my understanding (after doing a lot of research because my own betta wasn't doing well in a bowl like that) was that there are a lot of incorrect rumors circulating about the conditions in which a betta can live. I think you're fine not to have a filter, since you have live plants (which balance the pH and aerate the water naturally) but I'm not sure you can attribute his distress in the other tank to the tank itself and not some "third-party" cause (like a current). Heaters are pretty important, too, since tanks can get cold quick and bettas, while hardy, are still fish that can't regulate their body temps well. I do know that there is this myth that bettas live in "little pools" in the wild, which is actually WILDLY inaccurate -- they do live in the rice paddies, but the "pools" are more like ponds, small ponds:



So yeah, I mean, there are many reasons for problems in the last tank; that doesn't mean that those problems were directly related to the heater or filtration method, and in my experience bettas won't live long if the pH or temperature is incorrect, so you should try and regulate that, if you can, even if you have to do it in some unconventional way.

 

[Mizzely]

Bubble nests are definitely a good thing like others stated...when the bettas mate the male will blow bubbles around the eggs so that they float in that nest, so it is a beacon to females that they would make a good mate. Mine only ever did it when they were happy They do fight in the wild, that is how they establish territory and compete for females. It is exaggerated in the tank, however, as most setups for a betta leave too little room for a proper territory, and no means of escape for the "intruder". I have seen large tanks with multiple male bettas coexisting peacefully because they had room to call their own, and had opportunity to retreat if they ventured too far. This is true for MANY species of fish, including other labyrinth fishes.

I don't see anything wrong with calling them Siamese Fighting Fish. It is an older term, true, but not incorrect nor disused. Many places on the web you go to will list the species as Betta Splendens (Siamese Fighting Fish) with note that it is also commonly called betta.

While it is true that they generally do better alone in a tank of about 5 gallons with no surface agitation or current, every fish is unique and the fact that he is blowing a bubble nest definitely means he feels healthy, happy and home

And 65sunnyday, bettas are known jumpers; they will jump out of tank in the hopes of landing in a better pool; usually this is if they do not like the water conditions.

 

[SkyBaby]

I've kept bettas for years, but right now, I don't have any. In my own experience, my bettas were all fine in the 2-3 gallon heated, non-filtered kritter-keepers I kept them in. I provided lots of plants (the fake silk ones-can't keep live plants alive to save my life ) for hiding. I changed the water 100% every week. Keeping a filtered tank cycled within good parameters is difficult on anything under 5 gallons. I found it easier just doing weekly 100% water changes of my 2-3 gallon kritter-keepers than trying to cycle small filters in them.

 

[Dallas]

The photos, fish, and tank are all beautiful! If he is comfortable enough with his home to blow bubbles in hopes of getting a mate and having babies there, then it must be pretty darn nice there!

 

[cosmolove]

I actually am going to have to side with water faller. Bettas do MUCH better in tanks. Now with that being said, generally speaking you want about 5 gallons for a betta alone. I personally have a single betta in a heated, filtered, 10 gallon and I don't have any problems with keeping him eating. I have owned many bettas this way. Was your tank cycled that you had the fish in? Generally good ammounts of ammonia and nitrites can cause fish to not want to eat or death. Bettas living in bowls is basically banking on them coming to the top for oxygen which isn't as easy as taking oxygen from the water for a fish. Going off on a rant about how you know your animals are happy and well cared for when there is so much research against what you are saying is rediculous! I do agree in a larger container that a betta could be without a filter but the definaitly need a heater. Also plastic plants as the ones I am pretty sure I saw in that bowl with them are usually bad for bettas as they can rip their fins on them. Soft silk plants or live plants are ideal.

I really don't understand why you ranted on water faller over giving you a link to information, whenever someone tells me anything even if its not what I want to hear I still take it into consideration and try to understand where they are coming from.

EDIT: Also if you had him in a tank with other fish that could also be the reasoning behind him not eating. Most do not like other fish or anything for that matter.