JLcribber
@cockatoojohn
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If you have a large aggressive parrot (Amazon, Macaw, Cockatoo) such as a rescue/rehome you know fair well how dangerous that creature can be. A happy healthy confident hormonal large parrot is another formidable foe. Handling them becomes a tricky ordeal because they are physically dangerous. They never miss any opportunity to take advantage of a situation.
It's always a good idea to stick train a large parrot for everyone's sake. There will be times when others need to handle him and this helps make it acceptable and stress free.
When the honeymoon is over chances are almost certain that you will experience the power of the beak.
A bird can only bite if you provide the opportunity to do so. If you "offer" your flesh/arm, put it right in target range of the beak then you always run the risk of getting bitten. Stop doing that. Zookeepers do not handle dangerous animals with their hands. It's just dumb. You need a "tool" like a big T stick. This allows you to handle the bird with confidence, no fear and control. It allows you to avoid any bites because your flesh is not being "willingly offered" as a "target".
If you let them have access to "skin" (and they know darn well what skin is) then you "provided" the opportunity to bite. Simply "disguising" your skin by draping a T shirt over your arm and hand that reach for a step up becomes a completely different thing and may work for some birds that don't bite or are just scared of hands. If it's a big beak and a biter it's a real problem. You may/will need to use a tool like a T stick to "avoid" that bite.
With a large sturdy T stick you can handle "any" bird without fear and confidence because you have "control". The armored up arm is ok but you still need to deal with a bite/chomp. It may not hurt as much but it still invokes a reaction and you still have to deal with the fear/confidence.
There is no need to react at all with the stick. If the bird makes any aggressive move you have control. You can spin him around to keep him facing away from you. You can use your other hand to distract/change focus. In extreme cases you can even grab the tail to gain total control over a "berserk" bird (not that yours is).
If you use a "tool" like a T stick during certain handling situations you take that ability to bite you away. He can bite that stick as long and hard as he wants. No reaction. No bite. No drama. A non event.
There is also another good reason to use this type of tool. It is a very powerful "non verbal" cue (a form of target training) that once conditioned, the bird knows immediately what to expect and very rarely if ever hesitates to use it. It is a much more stable/sturdy platform to ride around on for a bird with big claws than trying to balance on your mushy forearm. It gets to the point that if you offer the stick or your arm it will choose the stick every time and even refuse to stand on that wobbly mushy perch. It becomes a security blanket.
The flying attack.
The "only" way to stop a flighted amazon/macaw/cockatoo from fly by attacks without being a pretty good (T) stick handler as a defensive tool is to take the power out of its flight. That means a "progressive wing trim". Not a grounding but a controlled clip to eliminate the ability to attack (no lift or speed).
A large T stick is your best tool. It gives you control over the bird. You can handle the bird without fear. You can avoid the bite but most importantly you have a defensive weapon. If the bird flies at you, all you have to do is raise the stick in defense. The bird has a choice. Land on the stick or go somewhere else. His choice. He does NOT have the choice to land on you.
If he's scared of the stick so be it. Right now that works to your advantage because he will avoid it. Once conditioned to the stick it's just a tool.
If you use a straight stick (even with a pop bottle guard on it) the buggers figure out very quickly they can just jump over that, onto the arm, and up to the shoulder. The worst place you want them to end up.
The only way off that T stick is to launch. If I grab his tail (because I can see he's going to launch) he's not launching anywhere.
I can keep him a "little" off balance. I can spin the top around so as to keep him facing the other way. It just gives you control.
The vertical part of the stick removes your arm from target range. The handle should be long enough so they can't possibly reach your arm without trying to climb down the stick. If they try you use the above tactics to thwart their efforts.
Scenario. Does this sound familiar? They're standing on your arm (and they know they're on your vulnerable arm) and when they decide, just reaches down and chomps. You have no choice but to react. You have to put him down or away whatever. There is action, drama (and basically reward) Mission accomplished.
Same scenario except instead of being on your arm he's on the stick. He gives you that same (stink eye) look, reaches down and chomps the stick. So what. No need to react. No need to fear. Non event.
These are not pets. You are a zoo keeper who is "managing" this bird with all its wild instincts. A zoo keeper uses tools and environment to get the desired results they are looking for. You certainly would not handle a shark with your bare hands. Even a friendly shark. We own sharks.
When you live with a lightning fast big crushing beak and you become an extremely good stick handler, you can save a lot on band aids.
If you are in need of a great T stick I ready made ones and will make custom ones.
Medium Transport T stick | Etsy
It's always a good idea to stick train a large parrot for everyone's sake. There will be times when others need to handle him and this helps make it acceptable and stress free.
When the honeymoon is over chances are almost certain that you will experience the power of the beak.
A bird can only bite if you provide the opportunity to do so. If you "offer" your flesh/arm, put it right in target range of the beak then you always run the risk of getting bitten. Stop doing that. Zookeepers do not handle dangerous animals with their hands. It's just dumb. You need a "tool" like a big T stick. This allows you to handle the bird with confidence, no fear and control. It allows you to avoid any bites because your flesh is not being "willingly offered" as a "target".
If you let them have access to "skin" (and they know darn well what skin is) then you "provided" the opportunity to bite. Simply "disguising" your skin by draping a T shirt over your arm and hand that reach for a step up becomes a completely different thing and may work for some birds that don't bite or are just scared of hands. If it's a big beak and a biter it's a real problem. You may/will need to use a tool like a T stick to "avoid" that bite.
With a large sturdy T stick you can handle "any" bird without fear and confidence because you have "control". The armored up arm is ok but you still need to deal with a bite/chomp. It may not hurt as much but it still invokes a reaction and you still have to deal with the fear/confidence.
There is no need to react at all with the stick. If the bird makes any aggressive move you have control. You can spin him around to keep him facing away from you. You can use your other hand to distract/change focus. In extreme cases you can even grab the tail to gain total control over a "berserk" bird (not that yours is).
If you use a "tool" like a T stick during certain handling situations you take that ability to bite you away. He can bite that stick as long and hard as he wants. No reaction. No bite. No drama. A non event.
There is also another good reason to use this type of tool. It is a very powerful "non verbal" cue (a form of target training) that once conditioned, the bird knows immediately what to expect and very rarely if ever hesitates to use it. It is a much more stable/sturdy platform to ride around on for a bird with big claws than trying to balance on your mushy forearm. It gets to the point that if you offer the stick or your arm it will choose the stick every time and even refuse to stand on that wobbly mushy perch. It becomes a security blanket.
The flying attack.
The "only" way to stop a flighted amazon/macaw/cockatoo from fly by attacks without being a pretty good (T) stick handler as a defensive tool is to take the power out of its flight. That means a "progressive wing trim". Not a grounding but a controlled clip to eliminate the ability to attack (no lift or speed).
A large T stick is your best tool. It gives you control over the bird. You can handle the bird without fear. You can avoid the bite but most importantly you have a defensive weapon. If the bird flies at you, all you have to do is raise the stick in defense. The bird has a choice. Land on the stick or go somewhere else. His choice. He does NOT have the choice to land on you.
If he's scared of the stick so be it. Right now that works to your advantage because he will avoid it. Once conditioned to the stick it's just a tool.
If you use a straight stick (even with a pop bottle guard on it) the buggers figure out very quickly they can just jump over that, onto the arm, and up to the shoulder. The worst place you want them to end up.
The only way off that T stick is to launch. If I grab his tail (because I can see he's going to launch) he's not launching anywhere.
I can keep him a "little" off balance. I can spin the top around so as to keep him facing the other way. It just gives you control.
The vertical part of the stick removes your arm from target range. The handle should be long enough so they can't possibly reach your arm without trying to climb down the stick. If they try you use the above tactics to thwart their efforts.
Scenario. Does this sound familiar? They're standing on your arm (and they know they're on your vulnerable arm) and when they decide, just reaches down and chomps. You have no choice but to react. You have to put him down or away whatever. There is action, drama (and basically reward) Mission accomplished.
Same scenario except instead of being on your arm he's on the stick. He gives you that same (stink eye) look, reaches down and chomps the stick. So what. No need to react. No need to fear. Non event.
These are not pets. You are a zoo keeper who is "managing" this bird with all its wild instincts. A zoo keeper uses tools and environment to get the desired results they are looking for. You certainly would not handle a shark with your bare hands. Even a friendly shark. We own sharks.
When you live with a lightning fast big crushing beak and you become an extremely good stick handler, you can save a lot on band aids.
If you are in need of a great T stick I ready made ones and will make custom ones.
Medium Transport T stick | Etsy
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