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Nearly 5 month cockatoo not interested in new food.

HolliDaze

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I got Dexter at 8 weeks, now he is nearly 4 months. I'm working on getting him to eating every 24 hours, but we've hit a road block. In the 16 hours between feedings, he only eats 4 or 5 large pellets. I'm not sure how much water he is drinking, but he doesn't look dehydrated. He has zero interest In eating anything besides baby food and pellets, although having access to veggies. I've offered him human food (Healthy stuff) but he only touches it with his tongue. The only veggie he seems interested in eating at all is sweet corn.
Don't worry about me underfeeding him. He has only begged for food a couple times, and I immediately fed him. He hasn't begged for several weeks, despite the increased time between feedings.im concerned he won't eat enough to be safely weaned. Am I doing something wrong? How do I solve this issue?
 

MiniMacaw

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Have you been weighing him daily? When my macaw was weaning he got daily weight checks so I could see if we were going in the right direction.
 

JLcribber

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He's fledging age. They instinctively drop weight (less appetite) in preparation for that. Fledging is vitally important for all birds but even more so for cockatoos because of their fragile emotional nature. It's as important as anything you will do in this birds life. It will be the difference in having a "somewhat" emotionally stable bird or a basket case ready to jump off the edge. The consequences of them not getting what they need will (hopefully) not show up until the bird matures and then it will be amplified. (If he's already clipped you're starting out with an uphill battle)

Something to read.
Thinking on the Wing | The Parrot University, llc
 

macawpower58

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How often are you offering hand feeding? I think you're saying once, maybe twice every 24 hours? 16 hours between hand feedings?

If this is what you are saying, a 4 month old Too IMO needs at least 2 to 3 feedings per day, with solid food being offered also.

Mornings and evenings, or perhaps afternoon and evening feedings. The night feeding is usually the last to go.

He'll learn to eat solid foods best if he is confident the hand feedings are still there.

My macaw hand fed for 8 months. I know many other large birds that have asked for hand feeding from 6 month to over a year.

I think you may be weaning too fast. Keep offering those feedings. He may slow down while fledging, but then start taking them again.
 

JLcribber

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Abundance Weaning and Fledging
Wilhelm (Bill) Kiesselbach
Permission granted March 31, 2009

There is absolutely nothing more important for the healthy emotional and intellectual development of a young parrot than Abundance Weaning and Fledging. The term "Abundance Weaning" was created and trademarked by Phoebe Greene Linden of Santa Barbara Bird Farm. She has written extensively about it and subsequently, the term has been adopted by bird behaviorists as identifying the single most important contributing factor to the birds' emotional and physical health. As opposed to "forced" weaning where birds are on a specific schedule and, usually based on their age, the breeder decides when they ought to be weaned, "Abundance Weaning" leaves that decision to the bird.

Supplied with a variety of foods ranging from fruit and vegetable tidbits to pellets that should be available all the time, the bird is continued to be hand fed. A properly weaned bird learns to trust humans through the actions of it's caregiver. It gains self-confidence, learns to accept different foods readily and is comfortable in a changing environment. While initially "Abundance Weaning" is exclusively needed for nutrition, eventually it turns into the need for emotional comfort. The word "weaning" in this context implies an awareness of the bird's needs. It goes beyond the mere satisfaction of nutritional requirements. "Weaning
implies love, caring, emotional support and the application of simple, elementary rules. It implies knowledge of the early very distinctive stages in their maturation and the birds' individual changing and very specific behavioral patterns.

The Poultrification of parrots is an expression coined by Sally Blanchard and refers to the indiscriminate breeding of parrots on a large scale expressly motivated by profit. While there are even breeders who incubate eggs on a large scale and then ravage feed the babies without individual attention, emotional support or even a modicum of "Abundance Weaning", the worst case of poultrification is the bird breeding program by Petsmart. They breed birds by the thousands and then distribute them into their sales outlets. Everything Petsmart and volume breeders do literally flies into the face of everything we know about the emotional and
intellectual needs of a young parrot. Birds "produced" in this manner are very likely to develop very serious behavioral problems. In many cases, breeders and pet shops will even offer a discount to those who are willing to buy an unweaned bird, a clear indication of a breeder or pet shop who doesn't care beyond the "jingle" in the cash register.

While the consequences for this lack of care won't be apparent when the birds are still babies, it will be very evident when they mature. They are prime candidates for seriously dysfunctional behavior. This, of course, is not to say that an Abundance Weaned bird is guaranteed to become a wonderful companion. A lot of knowledge, work, understanding, respect and love are still necessary. Abundance Weaning merely represents the vital foundation on which to build.
Cage bound birds which are suspicious of changes in their lives, who reject their caregiver, who become phobic or even feather pluckers most likely have not been properly Abundance Weaned.

It is a fact that in the wild, African Greys as well as Cockatoos for instance, are "Abundance Weaned" long after they have fledged. 2 year old Cockatoos have been observed being fed by their parents and other relatives. Greys are being weaned and taught the "ways of life" for a number of years to prepare them not only to survive in a hostile environment, but also for the rules of behavior within their very own flock. Bobbi Brinker the noted breeder has instituted a system of "Nanny Birds" which helps her raise her babies. She has the reputation of producing healthy and well-adjusted parrots. (The title of her latest book: "For the Love of
Greys*)

At this point, it may be interesting to recount the stunning behavioral difference between wild caught African Greys and captivity raised birds. While African Greys have the reputation of being feather pluckers, there has been almost no incidence of feather plucking observed in wild caught birds. While being trapped, caged and transported must represent a level of trauma to an intelligent and sensitive creature that is hard to imagine, these birds clearly came emotionally equipped to deal with that. On the other hand the birds bred in captivity, cared for, fed and never subjected to the tremendous stress of their wild caught cousins are
historically more prone to becoming phobic. The answer seems to be that they are ill prepared to deal with the uncertain, ever changing circumstances of a life with a bunch of mammals who don't even begin to understand them. Something was missing in their upbringing — in all likelihood they have not been properly weaned is a major part.

There is another component in successfully growing up: Learning to fly. Birds must learn to fly. Their sense of self-confidence and emotional well being depends on it. They must be able to maneuver and land safely. While the pure act of flying is a vital part of their development, it has been suggested that letting them learn to fly may even impact their eating habits. When a bird gets ready to fledge, it will instinctively reduce its food intake. That is to loose some of the accumulated baby fat and make it lighter. Many times loving caregivers become extremely concerned about lack of eating and weight loss. It has been suggested that our birds must
fly to lose their focus on losing weight and regain their "normal appetite". Even though we may later clip their wings in order to protect them from injuries or escaping, they must fly first. Once we decide to clip them, we have to make sure to do that correctly. There are very clear guidelines on proper wing clipping which are based on bodyweight, size and general agility and are different for every species. Properly clipping is important and won't harm the bird's self esteem; doing so improperly can be devastating, physically dangerous and cruel.

Finally, "Abundance Weaning" is entirely the breeder's responsibility. There is no question that the bird's future behavior patterns, his/her ability to relate, the levels of socialization and emotional health are very largely dependent upon the care it receives early in its life.

The battle cry among all those dedicated to the well being of our companions parrots is: "Don't buy an unweaned bird" —and for a reason: Doing so clearly supports those who are in this business without regard to for the well-being of the creatures. We all should know the difference between a good breeder who cares for the birds and a bad, unscrupulous breeder. The entire future relationship between the buyer and the bird may very well depend on the breeder. A good breeder will never sell an unweaned bird and the bad breeder should be put out of business.

Articles elaborating on this subject can be found in Sally Blanchard's Pet Bird Report where Pamela Clark with her intelligent, perceptive and well founded articles is a contributor, as well as in a number of outstanding books about the upbringing and keeping of pet parrots. Sally also has developed a list of questions to qualify a breeder.

This article is not intended to provide all the necessary information, rather, it is intended to stimulate the awareness that we must do our homework before buying
a parrot!
 

Bokkapooh

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Why are you cutting back his handfeedings?
 

HolliDaze

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I saw on an article that all parrots should be on one Feeding a day by 4 months. Yes, I've been feeding him every 16 hours, I'll feed him more often if you guys think I should. He is clipped, but only after he became very good at flying. I weigh him daily, but I've found no charts saying how much he should lose in fledging. he is 547 grams, more than he was before fledging, oddly. Im never going to take away his hand feeding totally until he doesn't want it. I know that could upset him and that's the last thing I want for him. When I say cutting back, I don't mean ignoring him when he cries. If he even acts hungry with no begging, I offer food and feed him. I feed him at 4 pm and 7 am everyday. 5-6 tablespoons each feeding. Of course, constant access to his adult food, though he only licks the veggies. The breeder did not specify his age, but I got him on June 1st and he was about 8 weeks.

So, I guess he's 5 months. Sorry about that. I'll see if I can edit my post and correct that number.
Note: I couldn't update it.
 
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expressmailtome

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So, I guess he's 5 months. Sorry about that. I'll see if I can edit my post and correct that number.
Note: I couldn't update it.
I will edit the title.
 

aooratrix

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I saw on an article that all parrots should be on one Feeding a day by 4 months. Yes, I've been feeding him every 16 hours, I'll feed him more often if you guys think I should. He is clipped, but only after he became very good at flying. I weigh him daily, but I've found no charts saying how much he should lose in fledging. he is 547 grams, more than he was before fledging, oddly. Im never going to take away his hand feeding totally until he doesn't want it. I know that could upset him and that's the last thing I want for him. When I say cutting back, I don't mean ignoring him when he cries. If he even acts hungry with no begging, I offer food and feed him. I feed him at 4 pm and 7 am everyday. 5-6 tablespoons each feeding. Of course, constant access to his adult food, though he only licks the veggies. The breeder did not specify his age, but I got him on June 1st and he was about 8 weeks.

So, I guess he's 5 months. Sorry about that. I'll see if I can edit my post and correct that number.
Note: I couldn't update it.


All birds wean at their own pace, regardless of charts, articles, etc. I'm glad you're still offering feedings. I would continue this until he consistently refuses. He'll probably refuse the morning one at some point, but you never know. He will eventually refuse one but may want a comfort feeding for a long time to come. If he wants a feeding at one year, give him one. I'll check some weight charts.

Has he had a comprehensive vet check? I would get one from an avian vet to rule out any underlying infection or bacteria, just in case that might be lurking in the background.

You might soak some pellets to handfed him. Organic, no sugar added juice might be good, since you report he's licking food. You might try warm, fresh food in the morning when he's hungry. Good luck.
 

HolliDaze

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Thanks for the title update.
Where can I find growth charts? I've looked for 45 minutes and couldn't find one.
Also: I tried feeding him at 12 hours today, and he ate half his usual amount.
 

JLcribber

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Where can I find growth charts? I've looked for 45 minutes and couldn't find one.
There are none that I know of. What's the point? Your bird is "physically" full grown. All birds physically mature quickly. It's the fragile mind that is still a baby.
 

HolliDaze

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To keep track of his weight. If he isn't eating right, I may not know if I have no idea that he's underweight.
 

aooratrix

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I'll check my ABRC book tomorrow.
 

JLcribber

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To keep track of his weight. If he isn't eating right, I may not know if I have no idea that he's underweight.
There still isn't any chart. You start weighing your bird on a regular basis and develop your own chart. No one always holds a constant weight. There is fluctuation depending on season, age (when young) and fitness.

Weights for birds are just generalizations. One of my cockatoos outweighs the other by 50% (600gms to 900gms) They are both the right weight for who they are. What you are looking for with regular weighing is sudden drops in weight of over 10-15%.
 

macawpower58

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If you take a photo of him straight on, or slightly at an angle, members will be able to see his keel, and they might be able to tell you if he's looking too thin.
 

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550 would be normal for the average male baby cockatoo. And in about 4 years he should probably be at about 600grams- 650 grams with an empty crop. Always weigh before a feeding.
 

Bokkapooh

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And your parrot article on weaning is incorrect, outdated or spreading misinformation. Please do not cut back on feedings unless your baby boy clearly no longer wants any.

Offer food on a plate at the bottom of his cage twice a day. Pellets mixed with chopped veggies and grain and fruit.

He'll try the new foods soon. But he shouldn't be cut back on food.

Fledging starts around 10/11 weeks of age
You shouldn't see any more weight loss now that your cockatoo baby is closer to 5 months of age. Only weight gain.
 

HolliDaze

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Ok. He actually doesn't seem to be eating as much at 12 hours than 16, so I'll stick with that until his appetite goes down. I'll keep encouraging him whenever he tastes his food, so he'll at least develop a taste for it.
 

Bokkapooh

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Seems like he may have a crop issue if that is the only thing he is eating. Or is he eating other foods?

He really shouldnt only be eating every 12 hours.
 
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