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Leopard Geckos
- Thread starter Emmilyy
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If you don't care about the age you could go with an adult. I got kirby when he was VERY young, just a week out of his egg, few inches long. (I was able to do this because I knew what I was doing, this isn't recommended for others to do)I was reading how delicate babies are, so maybe for me i'd want to get an adult. I'd always be worried about doing something wrong with a baby
It is fun knowing you got them when they were a baby though. But it will put a lot of stress out of your hands if you get one older. You can't really hurt them unless he/she jumps out of your hands, but that can also hurt an adult.
waterfaller1
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I would go for a baby. You just have to make sure they are eating. I always handfed Mr. Smiley so there wasn't a chance of a bugs picking on him, or running off and getting loose in his viv, only to die later. This way you know how much they eat too. Adults only usually want to eat a few times a week. Steer clear of super worms, they are nasty, grab you, and can bore through your gecko if he doesn't snap the head right. I never thought I could handle crickets, but once I got used to them, they were much easier to care for than the worms. Please read up on proper gutloading{not that jelly fluker garbage, you are what you eat so to speak} of the feeders, and dusting them with pure calcium and sometimes vitamins. I learned most of what I know here~
The Reptile Rooms -> Leopard Geckos
and here~
GeckoForums.net | The Ultimate Online Gecko Resource
The Reptile Rooms -> Leopard Geckos
and here~
GeckoForums.net | The Ultimate Online Gecko Resource
Hypancistrus
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I have both leos and cresties. They're both quite nice, but cresties can be a bit jumpy. You have to be fast with your hands.
A 10 gallon turned on end with a door fashioned on the open side would be great for a single crestie. They don't need insects and can eat crested gecko diet (a powder you mix with water) which makes them simpler to feed. They also usually do not need heat and don't have special lighting requirement. Easy!
Leos are easy, too, but they require long space instead of tall space. I'd say a 2' tank minimum for an adult, but a 10 is fine for a baby. Get one that's well started and steer clear of chain stores- most baby leos from chains are not very healthy and may be carrying things like crypt.
They do need insects, but you can feed them on gutloaded mealworms instead of crickets for simplicities sake. Gut loaded means mealies you keep warm in bins and feed-- not a box of them in your fridge.
Leos will need heat, so they are a bit more expensive to maintain than a crestie would be.
Good luck in choosing!
A 10 gallon turned on end with a door fashioned on the open side would be great for a single crestie. They don't need insects and can eat crested gecko diet (a powder you mix with water) which makes them simpler to feed. They also usually do not need heat and don't have special lighting requirement. Easy!
Leos are easy, too, but they require long space instead of tall space. I'd say a 2' tank minimum for an adult, but a 10 is fine for a baby. Get one that's well started and steer clear of chain stores- most baby leos from chains are not very healthy and may be carrying things like crypt.
They do need insects, but you can feed them on gutloaded mealworms instead of crickets for simplicities sake. Gut loaded means mealies you keep warm in bins and feed-- not a box of them in your fridge.
Leos will need heat, so they are a bit more expensive to maintain than a crestie would be.
Good luck in choosing!
Emily! I have a leaopard gecko. His name is Shadow. I've had him since he was a baby. He is in a 15 gallon, and has been since I got him. The ten gallon would be better for a baby, and the 30 gallon for after 6-8 months. No matter what anyone says, DO NOT USE SAND! Use ceramic tile or paper towels for substrate. There is even specialy designed carpet called 'Repti-Carpet', that is what I use. As for food, my Shadow, who is 1 year old in March, goes through about 50 mealworms a week, along with a few superworms and waxworms. I don't feed crickets anymore (I did when he was a baby) because of how easily they die. Plus, they SMELL! As far as heating goes. I have a red bulb that keep the tank around 79-85 degrees. The light is on one side, so I have a cool and warm side. For humidity you can use a glass jar on the cool side with peat moss or damp paper towel. 3-5 hides are recommened. 1-2 on the warm side, 1-2 on the cool sise, and one humid hide. I'll take pics of my set-up later. I have a 'loft' area where he can bask and eat. In the pics I will post later, you can see a box with a flower on it. That is where he eats. It is very conveniete there, because the worms can't get out! Sorry for the long post. Two thumbs up that you get one!
I just wanted to point out that the whole superworms/mealworms boring through the stomach is nothing but an old wives' tale. It is true that animals fed a diet of solely mealworms or superworms do occasionally have digestive upsets if being improperly cared for, but the issue is bowel obstruction. If your animal is not sufficiently hydrated, kept too cool, and getting poor dietary variety, the ammount of chitin in these species can be problematic (particularly in young animals). But there is no concern of them chewing their way through your pet's stomach. Superworms make a fine dietary "base" for a leopard gecko, but all animals should have a varied diet. Phoenix worms, crickets, roaches, silk worms, nightcrawlers, etc. can all be offered, and in moderation so too can waxworms (but they are very fatty) and similar items.
I have three leopard geckos. They each have a 20g long tank (tiled) with a moist hide, dry hide, basking area, log, etc. as well as an out-of-tank enrichment area for digging and exploring. They're all very happy, healthy geckers despite coming from poor situations. I'm not a big fan of the species to be honest but they do make a decent "starter" reptile - though I agree that cresties are even easier.
I have three leopard geckos. They each have a 20g long tank (tiled) with a moist hide, dry hide, basking area, log, etc. as well as an out-of-tank enrichment area for digging and exploring. They're all very happy, healthy geckers despite coming from poor situations. I'm not a big fan of the species to be honest but they do make a decent "starter" reptile - though I agree that cresties are even easier.
waterfaller1
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I was always told they need belly heat to digest their food. Not ambient temp, but surface temp.
I still think supers are nasty
If you use a substrate that absorbs heat well, you can generally get away with a red light bulb because the sub gets hot and thus creates the needed belly heat. But I do believe heat mats are generally preferred. I personally use bulbs, but I have nice dark tile that gets warmer with the bulbs than it did with the mat I used to have (surface temp), so I stuck with it. But if you're (the OP) going with paper towel or something of the like, a heat mat is more reccomended.
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thanks for all the info, everyone! I think i would go with paper towel or tiles for the bottom.. probably start with paper towel and eventually get tile.. I'd love to see some of your guys set ups!
waterfaller1
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Mine was pretty girlie compared to others I have seen...
This was when he could still get into the small vase{on the back left..red} I had to replace it as he outgrew it, and added a few other things too.
55 gal
I will look for another pic
here's a topdown shot of him
This was when he could still get into the small vase{on the back left..red} I had to replace it as he outgrew it, and added a few other things too.
55 gal
I will look for another pic
here's a topdown shot of him
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Hypancistrus
Strolling the yard
Emily, I will see if I have pics of my leos 20 longs. I keep paper towels in mine, but I might switch to tile soon. I really like the tile in my beardie cages. It should be great for leos too.
We keep a mix of hide types. Their favorites are the black plastic hides you can buy at reptile shows-- cheap little things, maybe $3 a piece for the small ones. They love those stupid, ugly hides, even more than the caves.
Mine are kept in pairs, and we've had no issues with aggression. The females will go into egg laying from time to time and I simply throw the eggs away. I've raised baby cresties and we got too attached to sell them-- so last thing I need is to raise baby leos!
Here are some pics:
And our blizzard gecko, Ares.
Here is a close up of his eye. It's called eclipse eye.
We keep a mix of hide types. Their favorites are the black plastic hides you can buy at reptile shows-- cheap little things, maybe $3 a piece for the small ones. They love those stupid, ugly hides, even more than the caves.
Mine are kept in pairs, and we've had no issues with aggression. The females will go into egg laying from time to time and I simply throw the eggs away. I've raised baby cresties and we got too attached to sell them-- so last thing I need is to raise baby leos!
Here are some pics:
And our blizzard gecko, Ares.
Here is a close up of his eye. It's called eclipse eye.
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waterfaller1
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Very easy to clean. Especially with the tile and teaching them to go in the vase{all I did was put the vase in the spot he chose, and he started using it!}I made hides from stuff from the dollar store. I think in the bird room is ok as long as hands are washed thoroughly between them. Would love to see the cresties.
Those geckos are beautiful! Thank you for sharing pics!
Obviously, if i get a gecko its not going to be for a long time. I like to research for EVER (will probably hang out around a gecko forum and lurk) and then i take my time gathering things i will need. (plus the whole talking to the parents bit, lol ) and i will deffinately wait until i get a new job, but its nice to learn all about them!
Right now, i just got home with two pretty swordtails for my tank (which was already set and ready to go) but once I'm ready to get a gecko, i have another tank the fish can be switched to
Obviously, if i get a gecko its not going to be for a long time. I like to research for EVER (will probably hang out around a gecko forum and lurk) and then i take my time gathering things i will need. (plus the whole talking to the parents bit, lol
) and i will deffinately wait until i get a new job, but its nice to learn all about them! Right now, i just got home with two pretty swordtails for my tank (which was already set and ready to go) but once I'm ready to get a gecko, i have another tank the fish can be switched to
The pics were taken yesterday. I change his cage on a monthly bases, moving hides, and doing a thorough cleaning. Just make sure you leave a open space for the bathroom spot. Usually this is in one corner that they use as the toilet. For easier cleaning, put a small piece of paper towel (about 5" x 5"), in the bathroom corner.
P.S. Excuse the mess!
P.S. Excuse the mess!
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Geckos aren't cheap in your area? Do you have a job? I can't remember. There's tons of breeders in my area... not sure about you.
This thread is making me want a gecko again. I think they are so adorable. There are really tons of different colors you can get.
I'm not sure how different canada is from here, but geckos are fairly cheap. Food and all. I think since you liked the newt you'll really like the gecko. I like them.
This thread is making me want a gecko again. I think they are so adorable. There are really tons of different colors you can get.
I'm not sure how different canada is from here, but geckos are fairly cheap. Food and all. I think since you liked the newt you'll really like the gecko. I like them.
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