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*HELP* My Cockatiel won't stop laying!

blewin

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I saw that they have chick also, until that baby has fledged you can't do anything. it takes both parents to raise the chick to fledgling. please be ready to buy a second cage so that you can separate them once that baby/ies fledge.
You definitely need to keep the adults in separate cages after the baby is fledged. That nest box also must go after the baby has fledged. Tiel hens are notorious for turning any nook or cranny into a nest, and that nest box is always going to be way too tempting for her.

Also, unless an egg is physically broken, I'd leave it until the chick is fledged and the hen is out of the nest box for good. 'Tiels count eggs (yes, they count), and they will replace any missing egg with at least one additional egg.

It's also why "flooding" with eggs isn't necessarily a great idea. If a hen thinks that she should have, say, 10 eggs, because she is being flooded with eggs, then 10 eggs she will lay in the future. This is one of the issues we had with Buddy.
 

Rht123

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I saw that they have chick also, until that baby has fledged you can't do anything. it takes both parents to raise the chick to fledgling. please be ready to buy a second cage so that you can separate them once that baby/ies fledge.
Awww :( I'm happy to buy them a second cage If that's what it takes... but will they be sad if they are separated or not?
 

Rht123

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You definitely need to keep the adults in separate cages after the baby is fledged. That nest box also must go after the baby has fledged. Tiel hens are notorious for turning any nook or cranny into a nest, and that nest box is always going to be way too tempting for her.

Also, unless an egg is physically broken, I'd leave it until the chick is fledged and the hen is out of the nest box for good. 'Tiels count eggs (yes, they count), and they will replace any missing egg with at least one additional egg.

It's also why "flooding" with eggs isn't necessarily a great idea. If a hen thinks that she should have, say, 10 eggs, because she is being flooded with eggs, then 10 eggs she will lay in the future. This is one of the issues we had with Buddy.
It's going to be so sad separating them... do you think once the chick is grown up and the nest box is moved in would be worth the other methods such as limited sunlight etc first or do you think it's best to just separate them?
 

blewin

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I know it's hard, but you need to keep the adults in separate cages, unless you are willing to sterilize eggs constantly. They should be fine as long as the cages are near or next to each other. Separating them limits the possibility of fertile eggs, but you will probably still have to deal with eggs. Just keep an eye on the hen, and let them do their thing until the chick is fledged. Once that happens, you can get rid of the nest box, rearrange the whole cage, put the cage in a new location, try the lighting thing, throw in some new toys, etc.

You basically want your hen to think that the cage is not a secure enough place to lay eggs. If you can do that, you should be able to normalize things.
 

Rht123

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I know it's hard, but you need to keep the adults in separate cages, unless you are willing to sterilize eggs constantly. They should be fine as long as the cages are near or next to each other. Separating them limits the possibility of fertile eggs, but you will probably still have to deal with eggs. Just keep an eye on the hen, and let them do their thing until the chick is fledged. Once that happens, you can get rid of the nest box, rearrange the whole cage, put the cage in a new location, try the lighting thing, throw in some new toys, etc.

You basically want your hen to think that the cage is not a secure enough place to lay eggs. If you can do that, you should be able to normalize things.
Right I see what you mean... so regularly changing the layout of the cage could help also?
I definitely will separate them if it comes to it but I may a well give these other methods a go first
 

rocky'smom

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it's not just sunlight, it's any light whether sun or light bulbs. also try a darker cover over the female something like black sheet. you will still have to separate the birds too. then you can let them out one at time they can visit with each other thru the bars of the cage. also make sure the female is getting extra calcium so the egg laying does not deplete her bone for their calcium . you can buy a cuttlebone and grate finely and add that to her soft foods. something else I was told by my vet was that TUMS fruit flavored smoothies can be use for extra calcium. you will need to crush one TUMS 750mgs and mix it in with the cuttlebone powder. a 1/16 teaspoon/ good sized pinch to the soft foods. you are feeding soft foods, yes?
 

blewin

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The tums really works. It's how we got Buddy extra calcium after her stroke when she was barely mobile. Once your girl is done taking care with the chick, pull back on the calcium and the soft foods. Buddy's avian vet told us that too much calcium can trigger egg laying (to get rid of the calcium). Soft foods will do the same. Again, there's really nothing you can do until that chick is fledged and self-sufficient.

If you're keeping the chick, I'd get it DNA sexed once its old enough, and then put it with the appropriately gendered bird. I'm pretty sure that tiels don't care about incest...:blink:
 

Rht123

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it's not just sunlight, it's any light whether sun or light bulbs. also try a darker cover over the female something like black sheet. you will still have to separate the birds too. then you can let them out one at time they can visit with each other thru the bars of the cage. also make sure the female is getting extra calcium so the egg laying does not deplete her bone for their calcium . you can buy a cuttlebone and grate finely and add that to her soft foods. something else I was told by my vet was that TUMS fruit flavored smoothies can be use for extra calcium. you will need to crush one TUMS 750mgs and mix it in with the cuttlebone powder. a 1/16 teaspoon/ good sized pinch to the soft foods. you are feeding soft foods, yes?
At the moment we are feeding them seeds and another bowl with a blended mix of boiled egg, sweetcorn and brocolli. They also have a cuttlebone and a salt lick type thing
 

Rht123

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The tums really works. It's how we got Buddy extra calcium after her stroke when she was barely mobile. Once your girl is done taking care with the chick, pull back on the calcium and the soft foods. Buddy's avian vet told us that too much calcium can trigger egg laying (to get rid of the calcium). Soft foods will do the same. Again, there's really nothing you can do until that chick is fledged and self-sufficient.

If you're keeping the chick, I'd get it DNA sexed once its old enough, and then put it with the appropriately gendered bird. I'm pretty sure that tiels don't care about incest...:blink:
Yeah i think we are definitely keeping the chick... I would like to think that they would play happy families but in my head i can already see them all trying to mate in 6 months time... lol
 

Monica

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When was the nest box introduced?


Have you tried anything to reduce or stop the egg laying?
 

Rht123

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When was the nest box introduced?


Have you tried anything to reduce or stop the egg laying?
It was introduced about a month ago. But it has been in and out two other times since December when she laid her other clutches
 

Monica

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This is generally what I recommend for egg-laying hens. (X-post) :)

  1. Remove Eggs
    • Rearrange the cage
    • Move the cage to a new location
    • Use a cage grate
    • Get a new cage/Use a different cage
    • 12-14 hours of complete darkness (may require as much as 16 hrs for 2 weeks - or try providing the opposite, as little as 8 hrs of sleep)
    • Full Spectrum Lighting/Better Lighting
    • Lower the indoor temperature
    • Decrease calcium and protein within the diet (if she is on a high calcium & protein diet prior to laying eggs)
    • Remove anything that could be taken as a nest
    • Remove anything that could be used as nesting material
    • Don't allow her in any dark place or enclosed area
    • IMPORTANT: save the eggs in the fridge
    • If she lays more than 3-4 eggs, put them back in the cage
  2. Leave the Eggs
    • Leave the eggs alone in the cage
    • [Optional] Replace with fake eggs (prevent eggs from breaking)
    • Increase calcium
    • Let hen sit on eggs for 3-4 weeks or until she gets bored of them
    • Once done sitting, toss



Generally speaking, there are triggers to hens laying eggs, and if you can remove the triggers, you may be able to stop the egg laying. Triggers can include toys that she can lay in, a plastic base to a cage, nesting material (i.e. cage bedding), a diet high in protein and fat, too much or not enough light, quality of light, etc. All things that should be considered. Removing the triggers to egg laying should be considered *FIRST* before any drastic measures should be taken. You never know, it could be something simple!
 

Rht123

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This is generally what I recommend for egg-laying hens. (X-post) :)

  1. Remove Eggs
    • Rearrange the cage
    • Move the cage to a new location
    • Use a cage grate
    • Get a new cage/Use a different cage
    • 12-14 hours of complete darkness (may require as much as 16 hrs for 2 weeks - or try providing the opposite, as little as 8 hrs of sleep)
    • Full Spectrum Lighting/Better Lighting
    • Lower the indoor temperature
    • Decrease calcium and protein within the diet (if she is on a high calcium & protein diet prior to laying eggs)
    • Remove anything that could be taken as a nest
    • Remove anything that could be used as nesting material
    • Don't allow her in any dark place or enclosed area
    • IMPORTANT: save the eggs in the fridge
    • If she lays more than 3-4 eggs, put them back in the cage
  2. Leave the Eggs
    • Leave the eggs alone in the cage
    • [Optional] Replace with fake eggs (prevent eggs from breaking)
    • Increase calcium
    • Let hen sit on eggs for 3-4 weeks or until she gets bored of them
    • Once done sitting, toss



Generally speaking, there are triggers to hens laying eggs, and if you can remove the triggers, you may be able to stop the egg laying. Triggers can include toys that she can lay in, a plastic base to a cage, nesting material (i.e. cage bedding), a diet high in protein and fat, too much or not enough light, quality of light, etc. All things that should be considered. Removing the triggers to egg laying should be considered *FIRST* before any drastic measures should be taken. You never know, it could be something simple!
Wow thank you I really appreciate all of your advice. Until the chick is self sufficient there is not a lot I can do I suppose but as soon as I can I'm going to give all of these steps a go. I'm hopeful that it will work and they may not have to be separated :)
 

Monica

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Sounds like a plan! :)

It may be that they are getting too much light, or maybe the quality of the light isn't good, or cage location, or something else simple like that. Getting a second cage of another style and putting both in might be helpful? Maybe the tray for the stand could be an issue? Or something about the cage bottom? There are so many things that could trigger hormones!


Hopefully, the eggs she's currently laying are duds and you only have the one chick to worry about! :)
 

blewin

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If you're getting the second cage, which you should, I'd move the hen to the new cage. She's not going to be happy about it, but it should help snap her out of laying. With the new cage, you've got all new stuff, new location, etc. Buddy laid chronically for two years, then we moved. Just moving stopped her from laying, and it's been two years.
 

Ozarkarts

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My cockatiel is about 14-months old. She laid five eggs, laying the final one on May 5th. The vet said to wait 30-days and then remove the eggs. She started to act more normal but then after 23-days she started laying again. Now she has nine eggs. I plan to change her light amounts and diet. I will also rearrange her cage. The question is - when do I remove the eggs? If I do she will start laying again won't she? She is in a shoebox (covered) and I know I should remove the nesting box - but how can I do this with nine eggs in it?! I plan to remove the top of the box today. I'm afraid she will never leave her eggs so I won't be able to take them or the box away. She will leave the box to come out and eat (outside of the cage), but when I put her back in her cage she goes straight back into the box and sits on her eggs. Any suggestions?
 

Monica

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If you want to remove the shoebox, change her diet, lighting, rearrange her cage, etc, then remove the eggs immediately. Save them in the fridge.

After changing things around and she lays another 2 eggs, then give her back *ALL* of her eggs. At one egg, you just remove and add it to the others you are saving, but at two, add them all back.


The reason for this is because at one egg, she may have already started producing that egg when you remove the other eggs. A second egg though? That requires actual desire to continue laying after the first.
 

blewin

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My cockatiel is about 14-months old. She laid five eggs, laying the final one on May 5th. The vet said to wait 30-days and then remove the eggs. She started to act more normal but then after 23-days she started laying again. Now she has nine eggs. I plan to change her light amounts and diet. I will also rearrange her cage. The question is - when do I remove the eggs? If I do she will start laying again won't she? She is in a shoebox (covered) and I know I should remove the nesting box - but how can I do this with nine eggs in it?! I plan to remove the top of the box today. I'm afraid she will never leave her eggs so I won't be able to take them or the box away. She will leave the box to come out and eat (outside of the cage), but when I put her back in her cage she goes straight back into the box and sits on her eggs. Any suggestions?
I think the rule of thumb is at least 2 weeks after she starts ignoring the eggs. Unless the eggs are cracked, all that will eventually happen is that they will dry out.
 

Ozarkarts

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Thank you for your replies. My bird never did ignore her eggs. She would come out for a while but always wanted to go back and sit on them. She never completely ignored them.

I will try what Monica said to do. At this point she has stopped laying though (after her ninth egg). If I take them all away she will probably start laying again. Should I wait and see if she ignores them after a couple of weeks? I have started moving her cage into different areas and took the top off the shoe box she is in. I have lowered the temp in the room from 80 to 75 degrees. I also made her room darker and put her to bed earlier. I did all these things with the hope that it would make her stop laying and leave her eggs. I THINK she has stopped laying for the moment - now if she will just start to ignore the eggs...
 

blewin

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Do not take out the eggs until she ignores them for several weeks. She won't ignore the eggs until it's past the time that they would hatch. I think it's 21 days sitting time, then 14 days of ignoring.
 
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