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Elvis is biting. : (

cassiesdad

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It does sound like Elvis might have chosen you, at least at this time, as his "favorite". Earlier, he might've favored Howie. 'Toos can be fickle beasts when they want to be.
I know your feelings about clipping...they're the same as mine...but a "light clip" is a good alternative for the time being. Start target training to give E something to think about and work for....and get a T-stick.

Like John said, the honeymoon is over...now the real work begins. I know you and Howie can do what needs to be done.

Strange things can happen...today Milton tried to bite my brother. The thing is that Milty doesn't like when you have a winter coat-or any coat on. He realizes that you're leaving without him....and when he put the coat on, Milty got mad and tried biting...fortunately, there was no damage done...
 

sunnysmom

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Really great suggestions from everyone. I hope you can curb his behavior Michelle, and good job to Howie for trying so hard!
:hug8:

Well, Howie had to be coerced but I think/hope he's on board now. And thanks!
 

sunnysmom

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You really have to watch how you “play” with a Too. There’s a lot of things that start out innocently enough but end up becoming problems.

I don’t ever try to rile Tika up because he’s already on overdrive. We might play a short game of fetch once in a while (you know, they throw stuff, and you fetch). I focus my interaction on communication, feeding, mind games, low key stuff. When he wants to “play” I just observe but he has a girlfriend to play with.

I actually think that might be part of the problem too. When we first got Elvis, Howie played with him a bit like a dog. I kept telling him that rough housing with Elvis would come back to bite him- and it did.
 

sunnysmom

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It does sound like Elvis might have chosen you, at least at this time, as his "favorite". Earlier, he might've favored Howie. 'Toos can be fickle beasts when they want to be.
I know your feelings about clipping...they're the same as mine...but a "light clip" is a good alternative for the time being. Start target training to give E something to think about and work for....and get a T-stick.

Like John said, the honeymoon is over...now the real work begins. I know you and Howie can do what needs to be done.

Strange things can happen...today Milton tried to bite my brother. The thing is that Milty doesn't like when you have a winter coat-or any coat on. He realizes that you're leaving without him....and when he put the coat on, Milty got mad and tried biting...fortunately, there was no damage done...
Thanks. Maybe Elvis has switched people. The weird thing is he still wants to be with Howie. When Howie leaves the room, Elvis wants to go with him, etc. Maybe Elvis is just getting over-stimulated when Howie is around? Unfortunately, there is only so much I can do because Elvis is fine with me. I can put him to bed earlier, take away the blanket. etc but Howie has to try to work things out with Elvis.
 

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Im so sorry to hear Elvis is biting ...sounds like you have a great start ..sending tons of hugs your way :bluhug::bluhug::bluhug:
 

JLcribber

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Howie needs to act more like a bird and less like a human. :)
 

sunnysmom

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Im so sorry to hear Elvis is biting ...sounds like you have a great start ..sending tons of hugs your way :bluhug::bluhug::bluhug:
Thanks. I guess I shouldn't be surprised this is happening but I still was. Many times, I could point out things to Howie and say- okay, you should have handled that differently. But the bite last night was completely out of the blue. And I think Elvis knew he messed up because he immediately went back to his cage.
 

cassiesdad

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Maybe Elvis is just getting over-stimulated when Howie is around?
That's possible. 'Toos are like human toddlers when they play. I've watched many kids in a day care setting get over-stimulated at play...they sometimes will let their excitement get the better of them...and they'll hit, kick, or even bite their playmates. :jawdrop1:
I know Milton will get overexcited at play...chasing and fetching the empty soda bottle, in particular. Because of that, I am the only one that plays the game with him...I know Milty's body language best...
 

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Thanks. I guess I shouldn't be surprised this is happening but I still was. Many times, I could point out things to Howie and say- okay, you should have handled that differently. But the bite last night was completely out of the blue. And I think Elvis knew he messed up because he immediately went back to his cage.
It takes very little time to create a problem. It takes a lot of time and effort to fix it once there. It's just like how you can't "unsee" something. :D
 

Lady Jane

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My first thought with the blankets was overstimulation. 6 to 12 weeks! Is this once a year?
 

sunnysmom

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My first thought with the blankets was overstimulation. 6 to 12 weeks! Is this once a year?
I would like to say yes, but possibly twice? Blanket is gone. Elvis is happily playing with his clips. We'll see what happens when Howie gets home.
 

Nancy B

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:toofunny:



Yep! I know this game well :bliss::spinlol:
This was the very first thing Freddy did with my son! Then my 24 yrs old son asked what the heck is he doing? I told him, he's throwing and you're fetching! Lol my son wasn't pleased but did laugh!
@sunnysmom geez I'm sorry you're having an issue! The first thing I thought too was get rid of the blanket. My son thought it's cute when Freddy grabbed his finger and didn't bite, I yelled at my son and said stop, he could be teaching him to bite. I have told both my guys don't stick your fingers in front of him, or in the cage, it encourages them to bite. We think we're playing and they could be too, but they get rough. I mistakingly used to play with my lovebirds encouraging them to chase my feet. The redirection started after I got a good bite. I just found another way to play and didn't include my feet. I know you'll be fine, you do give such great advice and all Elvis needs is redirection, and time to cool his jets!:bighug:
 

JLcribber

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My first thought with the blankets was overstimulation. 6 to 12 weeks! Is this once a year?
One can artificially keep it going all year round with enough improper handling.
 

sunnysmom

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Well I am happy to report Howie got no bites tonight. I know we're not out of the woods but after yesterday , I will gladly take a day reprieve. I appreciate everyone 's advice and support!
 

Shinobi

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You allowed Elvis to bite your fingers whilst playing on the lounge. you then allowed him to actively hunt out your fingers, this is learnt behaviour The use of the blanket over stimulated him and by combining with the learnt behaviour, you have now taught your bird to not only bite but to actively pursue fingers and hands.


I think that target Training would help, the bird must first be clicker trained, this means that the birds understands that a click equals reward, the reward can be praise or a food item

Then you need to decide what to use for the target, I use a chop stick and it can’t be a hand-held perch that the birds step up onto. The chop stick must only be used for training sessions and not for play outside the training sessions, otherwise they lose their meaning.

Use T-stand to confine the bird to the area which helps it to concentrate on the chop stick. Start by holding the chop stick near the bird and Click and reward for any movement toward the chop stick. Then withhold the reward until the bird touches the chop stick, Click and reward.

Teach him to touch it with a gentle grip of the beak as birds have a tendency to open their beak to touch it. If you have a bird that is very aggressive and wants to grab the chop stick out of your hand, then you will need to hold onto the chop stick and not let him pull it out of your hand.

The first time he does a gentle grab Click and reward with extra treats and praise. This is an “recognition moment ". He should soon get the idea of the gentle grip. Once he understands that, only Click and reward for gentle grip touches.

Once the bird is reliably touching the chop stick from the perch, by having him move up, down, right and left, we can then move the bird to the table top training area. If the bird seems nervous at first, go ahead and move the chop stick close to him to begin with. Then start moving it back a little at a time, and Click and reward for each gentle grip touch. Soon you should have him following the chop stick anywhere on the training area. This usually only takes two or three short sessions to train, but don't be discouraged if it takes longer.

The benefits of teaching a bird to target with a gentle grip, is that grabbing something with his beak is natural for him.

If your bird is cage bound, then start target training in the cage. This may have to take more time, but no need to rush things. Empty the food bowl and then when you Click and reward, you simply drop the treats into the food bowl. When you are finished with your training session. refill the food bowl.

Once a cage bound or aggressive bird has learned to target, you can start teaching him to step up using the target. Just don't use your arm first to step up on if there is any chance of being bitten. In training, we ALWAYS aim to avoid bites. Use a hand-held T- perch for the bird to step up on. You can either hold the clicker on the target stick and the perch with the other hand or use a mouth click. Hold the target where he will have to step onto the perch to reach the target. Take your time and don't worry if you must back up. We don't want to frighten the bird. When the bird becomes better at stepping up, you can then teach behaviours away from the cage.

Targeting is just one of the tools we use in training. The important things to keep in mind about this behaviour are:

The basic idea of targeting is to have the bird follow an object to touch it.

Once he has the idea of the gentle grip only reward him for that.

Always Click and reward for every gentle grip of the target.

Use “recognition moment " to help keep up his interest.

Try and end sessions on a positive note.

Have fun, keep training simple and never train if you are in a bad mood.

Once a bird has learned a behaviour, he won't forget it.

Happy training.
 

sunnysmom

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You allowed Elvis to bite your fingers whilst playing on the lounge. you then allowed him to actively hunt out your fingers, this is learnt behaviour The use of the blanket over stimulated him and by combining with the learnt behaviour, you have now taught your bird to not only bite but to actively pursue fingers and hands.


I think that target Training would help, the bird must first be clicker trained, this means that the birds understands that a click equals reward, the reward can be praise or a food item

Then you need to decide what to use for the target, I use a chop stick and it can’t be a hand-held perch that the birds step up onto. The chop stick must only be used for training sessions and not for play outside the training sessions, otherwise they lose their meaning.

Use T-stand to confine the bird to the area which helps it to concentrate on the chop stick. Start by holding the chop stick near the bird and Click and reward for any movement toward the chop stick. Then withhold the reward until the bird touches the chop stick, Click and reward.

Teach him to touch it with a gentle grip of the beak as birds have a tendency to open their beak to touch it. If you have a bird that is very aggressive and wants to grab the chop stick out of your hand, then you will need to hold onto the chop stick and not let him pull it out of your hand.

The first time he does a gentle grab Click and reward with extra treats and praise. This is an “recognition moment ". He should soon get the idea of the gentle grip. Once he understands that, only Click and reward for gentle grip touches.

Once the bird is reliably touching the chop stick from the perch, by having him move up, down, right and left, we can then move the bird to the table top training area. If the bird seems nervous at first, go ahead and move the chop stick close to him to begin with. Then start moving it back a little at a time, and Click and reward for each gentle grip touch. Soon you should have him following the chop stick anywhere on the training area. This usually only takes two or three short sessions to train, but don't be discouraged if it takes longer.

The benefits of teaching a bird to target with a gentle grip, is that grabbing something with his beak is natural for him.

If your bird is cage bound, then start target training in the cage. This may have to take more time, but no need to rush things. Empty the food bowl and then when you Click and reward, you simply drop the treats into the food bowl. When you are finished with your training session. refill the food bowl.

Once a cage bound or aggressive bird has learned to target, you can start teaching him to step up using the target. Just don't use your arm first to step up on if there is any chance of being bitten. In training, we ALWAYS aim to avoid bites. Use a hand-held T- perch for the bird to step up on. You can either hold the clicker on the target stick and the perch with the other hand or use a mouth click. Hold the target where he will have to step onto the perch to reach the target. Take your time and don't worry if you must back up. We don't want to frighten the bird. When the bird becomes better at stepping up, you can then teach behaviours away from the cage.

Targeting is just one of the tools we use in training. The important things to keep in mind about this behaviour are:

The basic idea of targeting is to have the bird follow an object to touch it.

Once he has the idea of the gentle grip only reward him for that.

Always Click and reward for every gentle grip of the target.

Use “recognition moment " to help keep up his interest.

Try and end sessions on a positive note.

Have fun, keep training simple and never train if you are in a bad mood.

Once a bird has learned a behaviour, he won't forget it.

Happy training.
Thanks. I don't think we actually allowed it. Just didn't stop it correctly or soon enough. I think Elvis is really smart and could definitely benefit from target training.
 

Nancy B

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Sometimes things happen when we play and we intend it to be playful. The first thing my son always did, and what I saw Joe do was wiggle their finger in front of the bird! They thought it was cute until I told them the bird is being taught to chase your fingers. Sam lisened. Joe didn't lol. Joe tried to feed something to Freddy and he grabbed Joe's finger and he got a good bite out of it. Joe said "he bit me!" I said of course, still going to play with him with your fingers?! You are teaching him to bite you. He doesn't do it to me because when I give him something he will look at my finger and look at me, then I say GENTLE, and he is gentle. He has never bit me but I am still working on Joe. Sam has had me nag enough over the years so he knows better.
I did the same thing with lovebirds and my feet! It was cute until Rascal got my toe good, ouch!! Then of course I realized I unintentionally taught him that. It's a live and learn. That can be fixed. I just redirected his energy.
 

Nancy B

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You allowed Elvis to bite your fingers whilst playing on the lounge. you then allowed him to actively hunt out your fingers, this is learnt behaviour The use of the blanket over stimulated him and by combining with the learnt behaviour, you have now taught your bird to not only bite but to actively pursue fingers and hands.


I think that target Training would help, the bird must first be clicker trained, this means that the birds understands that a click equals reward, the reward can be praise or a food item

Then you need to decide what to use for the target, I use a chop stick and it can’t be a hand-held perch that the birds step up onto. The chop stick must only be used for training sessions and not for play outside the training sessions, otherwise they lose their meaning.

Use T-stand to confine the bird to the area which helps it to concentrate on the chop stick. Start by holding the chop stick near the bird and Click and reward for any movement toward the chop stick. Then withhold the reward until the bird touches the chop stick, Click and reward.

Teach him to touch it with a gentle grip of the beak as birds have a tendency to open their beak to touch it. If you have a bird that is very aggressive and wants to grab the chop stick out of your hand, then you will need to hold onto the chop stick and not let him pull it out of your hand.

The first time he does a gentle grab Click and reward with extra treats and praise. This is an “recognition moment ". He should soon get the idea of the gentle grip. Once he understands that, only Click and reward for gentle grip touches.

Once the bird is reliably touching the chop stick from the perch, by having him move up, down, right and left, we can then move the bird to the table top training area. If the bird seems nervous at first, go ahead and move the chop stick close to him to begin with. Then start moving it back a little at a time, and Click and reward for each gentle grip touch. Soon you should have him following the chop stick anywhere on the training area. This usually only takes two or three short sessions to train, but don't be discouraged if it takes longer.

The benefits of teaching a bird to target with a gentle grip, is that grabbing something with his beak is natural for him.

If your bird is cage bound, then start target training in the cage. This may have to take more time, but no need to rush things. Empty the food bowl and then when you Click and reward, you simply drop the treats into the food bowl. When you are finished with your training session. refill the food bowl.

Once a cage bound or aggressive bird has learned to target, you can start teaching him to step up using the target. Just don't use your arm first to step up on if there is any chance of being bitten. In training, we ALWAYS aim to avoid bites. Use a hand-held T- perch for the bird to step up on. You can either hold the clicker on the target stick and the perch with the other hand or use a mouth click. Hold the target where he will have to step onto the perch to reach the target. Take your time and don't worry if you must back up. We don't want to frighten the bird. When the bird becomes better at stepping up, you can then teach behaviours away from the cage.

Targeting is just one of the tools we use in training. The important things to keep in mind about this behaviour are:

The basic idea of targeting is to have the bird follow an object to touch it.

Once he has the idea of the gentle grip only reward him for that.

Always Click and reward for every gentle grip of the target.

Use “recognition moment " to help keep up his interest.

Try and end sessions on a positive note.

Have fun, keep training simple and never train if you are in a bad mood.

Once a bird has learned a behaviour, he won't forget it.

Happy training.
I think I am going to start this with Freddy and make a game out of it....I have to read more about it and find a clicker today. That's interesting.
 
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