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How late can you begin hand rearing?

BeakyBird

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This is a really general question, requiring a really general answer. I've always preferred parents to keep and raise a / the baby until the latest point possible, I believe it's better for them mentally and sometimes physically. I plan on hand taming them myself from whatever point they are at. (learning step up, etc)

Have any of you kept a baby with the parents for the longest point possible, and then hand tamed later on? Or even tried handling the babies while the parents were out of the nest / etc?

Sorry if I sound ignorant, this is far future planning and I just want to know all I can.

side note: the birds in question are parrotlets, and while I don't actually have a breeding pair, I may end up with one pair for "hobby" breeding, because I adore the species.
 

Jan

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When I bred birds for the 23 years I bred 6 species of Pionus and 2 species of Amazons. They were all protective parents and especially with Amazons which can be known to kill or hurt their babies if you mess with them... so I was careful not to interfere too much while in the nest. I would sometimes pull when they were big enough for a leg band then put them back in but all in all I never left babies in the nest for more than 3 weeks. I did find that when pulling at the age of 3 weeks the babies were a tad bit more timid of me and accepting the formula than when babies are two weeks old and pulled from the nest.

Parrotlets can also be protective of babies, so you would want to be careful as to how they accept you messing with their babies. There are some parent birds out there who are okay with you handling their babies but for the most part that is something you have to see how the parents are with you. IF you can interact with babies while in the nest if parents are willing then you can leave them in longer. You do have to really watch that the parents still continue to feed their young when you are involved with their babies.


Answer to your topic title ... by the time the babies are 3 weeks old and you start hand feeding them it is not as acceptable as when they are younger... the baby will want to pull away sometimes and maybe not know how to eat from a syringe or a spoon. If you waited a month then start hand feeding, you will for sure have a much harder time for them to be accepting and they may not eat their quota of formula needed.
 
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Bokkapooh

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For my parrotlets, I'd like to maximize how long they stay with parents. I pull between 14-21days. It depends on the pair.

My cockatiels, back in the day, it just depended on the clutch.

My budgies, back in the day, it depended on the clutch as well. Sometimes I'd co-parent and they'd wean.
 

CheekyBeaks

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It depends on the species, the fear factor is something that kicks in as the chick develops and many species can be left until 21 days until it starts to take hold but I find if I don't take my IRNs by 14 days they don't settle down very well. If I can't take chicks by these ages I try not to pull unless I need to.
Once I took a clutch of IRNs when the oldest was about 3 1/2 weeks old and I had to return the two oldest quickly as they were wild and there was no way I was going to be able to feed them and their mum was a great mum so I didn't need to kept them. I kept the younger two and the youngest was fine the second youngest I had a very difficult time handfeeding and it was a fight right up until the day she weaned.
So if you intend to hand rear for pets I would say 2 weeks is the safest but if you have a more outgoing and friendly species that you may be able to leave as late as 21 days.
 

Bokkapooh

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Larger species like macaws and cockatoos arent normally pulled until 3-4weeks old.
 

Tinta

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I like the idea of co-parenting, myself. :x3:
I think about perhaps breeding vasas someday because they are my ultimate favorite species and I would love to help them along in aviculture. When I imagine it I always imagine co-parenting.
 

Despicio

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I've read that Greg Glendel managed to pull baby greys at 10 weeks old but he normally left them with the parents and then tamed.

I co-parent celestial parrotlets. Spectacles and green-rumps can also be co-parented/ hand tamed. This guy Home and this lady Bakewell's Birds Parrotlets Wales - home also have great sucess at co-parenting.

I want to breed lesser vasa parrots one day. I need a large pile of money first so I can live somewhere big enough to keep them.
 

melissasparrots

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This is a really general question, requiring a really general answer. I've always preferred parents to keep and raise a / the baby until the latest point possible, I believe it's better for them mentally and sometimes physically. I plan on hand taming them myself from whatever point they are at. (learning step up, etc)

Have any of you kept a baby with the parents for the longest point possible, and then hand tamed later on? Or even tried handling the babies while the parents were out of the nest / etc?

Sorry if I sound ignorant, this is far future planning and I just want to know all I can.

side note: the birds in question are parrotlets, and while I don't actually have a breeding pair, I may end up with one pair for "hobby" breeding, because I adore the species.
You say you prefer the parents raise, but then you say you plan on hand taming them. So, have you personally bred birds already and from experience have decided that they are better off being parent reared? Or have you read up on it and decided you like the idea of having them be parent reared even though you haven't done it yourself?

With cockatiels, I've left chicks with the parents right up through weaning and a little bit beyond. I started handling them for short periods as soon as they were old enough to maintain body heat for a few minutes. I've also hand reared cockatiels from about 2 weeks old. I have not left a baby entirely to the parents with no handling and then tried to tame them later.

IMO, you need to do the right thing for the bird's future rest of its life. In my area, there is very little market for parent reared birds. So, if you breed them, you sell for the pet trade for the most part. Pet owners don't want to tame a chick. They want instant cuddles and love. And many pet owners don't have the skills to successfully tame a chick. Some species are very difficult to tame after being parent reared. Personally, I worry that if we start selling a lot of untame parent reared birds, we will see even more going into rescues and even more birds with bad behavior habits because someone screwed up training. I'm not sure even a lot of breeders have the skills to tame a wild parent reared chick and do it consistently. Sometimes its not so much a matter of skill. Some species, after a certain age just don't want to be pets anymore. Other species(cockatiels, cockatoos, most large species) are much more forgiving and able to form a bond of some sort even if wild caught.

So I have to ask myself, even though I want parents to rear the chick, is it in the best interest of the bird to be brought into a world where it is not desired because it is untame and parent raised. Some people, if you say its tame but was parent raised, they are done. No more interest. Someone told them they should get a hand-fed chick, they want no part of a parent raised bird. No matter what you have to say about your ideals. If you let the bird be entirely parent raised and it turns out it doesn't want to be a pet, what then? Had you hand-fed it, chances are good the bird would have made a good pet and you could find a good home for it. But now untame and only interested in its own kind, you are likely to be stuck selling to a breeder or even giving the chick away. That breeder may or may not be the forever home you were hoping for. There is a lot of bird trading going on in breeding circles. Not necessarily bad, but if you are one of those pet owners that has dreams of forever homes, selling to a breeder often isn't forever. Of course, selling to a pet owner often isn't forever either. The bird can have a series of good homes or potentially one good forever home and be happy and well cared for in both cases. But the odds of getting a forever home go up if the bird is sweet to the owner.

Then if you have ideals of leaving the chick with the parents, you have to worry about parental behavior with your interference. In many cases, the parents will become much more nervous if you are interfering. They won't sit as tight on the eggs, you'll have more dead in shell chicks that fail to hatch. You'll have more chicks that accidentally get shoved to the side when mom was all nervous from your last interference and then they get chilled or not fed quite as well because mom jumps off the nest every time you walk in the room rather than staying with her babies. Your pairs need to trust you. Trusting you doesn't usually translate into trusting you to play with their babies while the parents stand there and look at you with loving adoration in their eyes. It usually means they trust you to feed and leave them alone. They trust that you won't be opening the nest box every time you walk in the room or try to handle babies every time you walk in and see mom out of the box. That just makes mom want to go jumping back in the box when she sees you walk in which means possibly jumping on babies. Or, it makes her hesitant to go back to her box when you walk in or sound like you might be walking past the room because if she's in her box, she can't keep in eye on you, plus you are a giant scary thing with big eyes opening a tiny little box with only one exit. Doesn't sound like a good place to bet trapped. No trust there if you are constantly in their business. Parents that trust you to feed them, clean and leave them alone often are good parents that produce really fat, happy babies. Parents that don't trust you not to be opening the nest box every time you walk in, are likely to be jumpy, possibly abusive, neglectful or just nervous parents.

With parrotlets specifically, I would either pull them at about 2 weeks, hand-feed and be happy with it. Or leave them with the parents, let the parents do their job and be happy with untame babies that will be sold as future breeders. If you can tame them great, but odds are decent you will not be able to or it will be hit and miss. Cockatiels are very well known for allowing interference and still feeding their chicks. Parrotlets are not. My recent experience with parrotlets is that a good mama won't get off her babies for you to hold them. If you try to move her so you can handle the babies, she will either bite you and hang on, or she will bite a baby, or she will jump up and down around her box, scattering everything everywhere and eventually run out of her box in fear, when her display of aggression doesn't work. Not really good for that trust I was talking about. You can potentially wait until the chicks are closer to a month old and the parents will naturally be spending more time outside of the box anyway. However, you may have a higher incidence of chicks that just don't want to be pets. Then you get back to trying to sell them as parent raised in a world were hand-fed is in demand. You can lie and say your tame parent raised chick is actually hand-fed in order to make a sale. But sacrificing ethics tends to become habit forming and generally isn't the way to go. Back in the day that we had wild caught imported parrotlets breeding, people preferred hand-reared birds for future breeders as they were calmer and better parents. Basically, with parrotlets, a hand-fed bird will have more options available to it. As long as it wasn't an only chick being hand-raised, it should still be able to be a good breeder. And it can also be a good pet and be in demand for both markets. You limit yourself and the future of the bird by parent rearing. Now if you wanted to just parent rear a clutch every once in a while for the sake of comparison and the experience for both you and the parents, then its a great thing to do IMO. You gain a lot by just sitting back and being a casual observer. And, its good to know that your pair will parent rear in case you ever have a family emergency and have to leave town on a day that you planned to pull babies for hand-feeding.

Also, I haven't actually read all the responses, but I thought I saw someone discuss a study on greys or amazons in which the birds were co-parented. Keep in mind, you want parrotlets. Its just different. Trying to handle tiny little parrotlets for socialization when you have large clutch hatching and your giant hands reaching into the box is a recipe for disaster. You'll have chicks old enough to start needing socialization happening at the same time as there are still eggs from that same clutch hatching. You can reach in there, roll the eggs around all over the place to handle the chick, meanwhile mom is throwing a hissy fit. You might end up killing some babies that haven't hatched yet from all the rolling around, you might destroy mom's trust in you and thus the hatch rate and success of future clutches. But, you might still be able to produce a few chicks that are tame parent reared birds. Trade offs. To me, if you run the risk of killing babies either in the current clutch or future clutches because of habits established now, then you probably should just keep your fingers out of the nest box.
 

Despicio

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Also, I haven't actually read all the responses, but I thought I saw someone discuss a study on greys or amazons in which the birds were co-parented. Keep in mind, you want parrotlets. Its just different. Trying to handle tiny little parrotlets for socialization when you have large clutch hatching and your giant hands reaching into the box is a recipe for disaster. You'll have chicks old enough to start needing socialization happening at the same time as there are still eggs from that same clutch hatching. You can reach in there, roll the eggs around all over the place to handle the chick, meanwhile mom is throwing a hissy fit. You might end up killing some babies that haven't hatched yet from all the rolling around, you might destroy mom's trust in you and thus the hatch rate and success of future clutches. But, you might still be able to produce a few chicks that are tame parent reared birds. Trade offs. To me, if you run the risk of killing babies either in the current clutch or future clutches because of habits established now, then you probably should just keep your fingers out of the nest box.
I'm sorry but this is just untrue. You can wait until 2.5 to 3 weeks before you start taking chicks out to hand tame, by then they'll all be hatched and have grown a bit. It's also perfectly possible to wait until the hen has left the box for some reason and then block the nest entrance for ten mins or so. Once the chicks are older the hen spends less time in the box anyway. It's also possible to make sure that the clutch isn't a silly size by swapping out some eggs for fakes, I don't let mine have more than 6 fertile eggs. I already linked two well know parrotlet breeders higher up, both have great success hand taming parrotlet chicks of various species. It might not work for evey single pair in existance but it's not as bad as you make out.

Some people, if you say its tame but was parent raised, they are done. No more interest. Someone told them they should get a hand-fed chick, they want no part of a parent raised bird.
People like that shouldn't be allowed to have a pet parrot as they've obviously done no research. They're probably the sort of people who buy a 'cuddly baby' and then sell it on when it grows up and starts to bite.
 

Bokkapooh

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I wouldnt handle any parrotlet chicks that I intended to leave with the parents.

I have good pairs. They are great at what they do. They themselves are usually tame-ish when not breeding. They were all handraised and then paired up but handled. And they give me chicks.

I do pull babies between 2-3weeks. The latest I've pulled was at 21days old. It took a full day to get them like any other handreared baby bird (good feeding response, coming to the syringe to be fed, not make scared noises when cuddled).

If you handle the babies at all when with mom, you risk some sort of aggression on the chicks eventually. Sometimes as minimal as feather loss on the chicks, sometimes as bad as being de-toed or winged. Or as horrible as the mom flies around the cage with a half eaten 1 day old chick.
 

melissasparrots

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I'm sorry but this is just untrue. You can wait until 2.5 to 3 weeks before you start taking chicks out to hand tame, by then they'll all be hatched and have grown a bit. It's also perfectly possible to wait until the hen has left the box for some reason and then block the nest entrance for ten mins or so. Once the chicks are older the hen spends less time in the box anyway. It's also possible to make sure that the clutch isn't a silly size by swapping out some eggs for fakes, I don't let mine have more than 6 fertile eggs. I already linked two well know parrotlet breeders higher up, both have great success hand taming parrotlet chicks of various species. It might not work for evey single pair in existance but it's not as bad as you make out.



People like that shouldn't be allowed to have a pet parrot as they've obviously done no research. They're probably the sort of people who buy a 'cuddly baby' and then sell it on when it grows up and starts to bite.
Not necessarily about the people wanting a cuddle baby. Some of those people are just misinformed and choose to trust someone they know rather than a breeder "in it for the money." Its hard convincing someone that a parent fed bird will be just as good as a hand-raised bird when there isn't much on the internet extolling the virtues of parent raised birds. Also, the simple truth is that when I've waited until a full 3 weeks have gone by to pull chicks for hand-feeding, that is the only time I've had one or two that just were flighty and nervous. Granted, its a small percentage of the overall, but still I have to get back to what is in the best interest of the bird.

I've had parrotlets lay 8 eggs before, and I've had them lay 7 in which all 7 hatched. I don't like to swap out eggs. It doesn't bother me when other people do it, but if I have a healthy pair, I want all my eggs to hatch. I generally have a very high hatch rate and survival rate. The only time I've had problems with less than ideal hatch rate with my parrotlets was with my current pair that waited 5 years to reproduce and then decided not to feed their babies for a few days while I had to intervene. Otherwise, generally if I don't have all fertile eggs hatching for the most part, it makes me think I need to change my setup. The odd egg that doesn't hatch or the very rare chick that doesn't survive goes with the territory of breeding. But it should be a once every several years situation even with a prolific species like parrotlets. One of the websites you listed mentioned having a pair that killed 3 of their babies. Sometimes that just happens no matter what you do. But I have to wonder if her practice of interfering caused that. I won't criticize co-parenting as being a bad way to go. But, people do need to realize that as often as it works out well, you will just as often have a problem associated with it.

I suppose if you thought you were going to be breeding the species for the rest of your life, you could specifically select for pairs that allowed you to intervene in the nest. In theory after several generations you would see some behavior changes in your birds that would make co-parenting more consistently successful. Of course, those behavior changes would probably be another step in the domestication of the species along with mutation colors and body shape and feather quality changes that we are now seeing in parrotlets. Personally, I'm lukewarm on domestication, however if someone were to do it, selecting for cooperative breeding traits might be a good direction to go. Its just not what I would do.

Again, wanted to say, I don't object to co-parenting. But so many pet owners get it in their head that its the perfect in between. Its not perfect. There are down sides that can be deadly. More than likely, the down side will be an increased incidence of fertile eggs not hatching. I see A LOT of that on this board with hobby breeders having DIS chicks. Or sick chicks or dead chicks. To me, that is an unacceptable situation. Fertile eggs should hatch unless you are specifically trying to reduce the hatch rate for some reason. If you have low fertility in a pair or fertile eggs not hatching on a consistent basis, you need to stop breeding birds. IMO. That comes down to an unacceptable loss of life issue. Unless there is an emergency situation as I experienced with my pair that didn't feed, people really should wait until their pair has produced at least one clutch to at least hand-feeding age(2 weeks plus) with a high degree of success(all babies survived with excellent weight gains, no illnesses and no dead in shell chicks) before trying to co-parent subsequent clutches. First time mom's just need time to calm down and figure out what they are doing before having to worry about people messing around with their stuff. And new breeders need to use that time to figure out any husbandry errors they are making that might be causing less than perfect survival or growth.
 

alcmene

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Full disclaimer- i have never bred parrots, nor do i intend to ever do so.

With that out of the way, I'm researching purchasing a large macaw. I have been in frequent contact with two of the most well respected breeders in the country, Wendy Craig in TX and Rita Grozmann (Avian Adventures Aviary) in CA. Both of them have told me that they have the healthiest chicks with the best temperament when they coparent the chicks with their parents. Neither pulls their chicks for hand feeding until the babies are 8-10 wks old.

I'm sure a large macaw would be different than a parrotlet. But I just thought that their expertise was interesting
 

Bokkapooh

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Wendy is an exceptional amazing breeder! If I didnt find my breeder for when I got Mera I would have went with Wendy. My breeder has stopped breeding macaws since Mera was hatched 4 years ago. I dont have experience with Rita.
 

InTheAir

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I have a parent raised irn who was not at all tame when we got her at 12 weeks.
She's really good with us and more independent than our handraised guy, which is what I wanted. She gives me her feet for nail trims, comes when called, lets me lift her while she is swaddled in a towel, does some tricks and stuff like that.
If my birds were to breed (and I have a change of heart and don't give them fake eggs) I would be waiting until babies fledge to make friends, unless Sapph decided it was ok for me to handle them while they are little.
I do think it wouldn't be a bad thing for breeders keep babies longer to socialise them well with people and their own kind for a couple months, regardless of how they raise them. but I'm not sure many buyers will get over baby-mania enough to start buying slightly older young birds.. even though that extra socialisation with their own species would benefit the birds. I think both my birds would have benefited from more flock time before coming to us.

I find it quite interesting that some irns that have been pulled early for hand raising still turn out to be unsuitable for pets and others that have been hand raised later, or like mine were parent raised, settle in to the pet bird lifestyle. I know one irn who's parents were lost around the time she fledged, siblings and her were hand fed and kept indoors for a couple months then she was put into a flight with other birds. 4 years later she is still a human oriented bird and won't choose a bird mate from the flock. Our Nila had a sibling that was raised with him who didn't like people at all, yet Nila is people-crazy.

I think Steve Martin is right that it is all a study of one.
 
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